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Author Topic: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)  (Read 1633 times)

Kmot

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Re: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)
« Reply #15 on: July 14, 2019, 10:12:57 pm »
I recently got my ET-1 aka M90 engine. And I only found this forum today. So, based on knowing nothing except what I watched in one video, I mixed some Coleman fuel and 20% MMO  :o and have been running my engine on it and it seems very happy with this fuel. I also put some grease on the gears and light oil on every other moving part. The first time I started it I let it run all the fuel and it lasted about 30 minutes. I then ran a second tank and 30 minutes. I saw a video about removing one spring from the regulator to slow down the idle and I did that. The person who's video I watched about the engine warned me to not run the engine for 30 minute stretches because the piston ring is only an o-ring and long run times would probably damage it. So now I run a few minutes at a time.

I really enjoy this engine. It is one of the most fun miniature engines I have run.

BTW, how is the timing adjusted?

Stoker

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Re: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)
« Reply #16 on: July 15, 2019, 12:42:42 am »
Tom, the timing is adjusted on the inside of the flywheel opposite the one with the governor, where you will find a disc that is attached to the crank with a set screw. There is a small round magnet mounted in the flywheel side of that disc that activates a Hall Effect sensor (black plastic rectangle) that is mounted on the outside of the engine frame in that location. On the opposite side (180 degrees) of the disc from the magnet, there is a hole through the disc, which makes a good indexing mark to judge timing by. I would mark the factory setting before loosening the set screw so you can always get back to that original factory setting if all else fails. A few degrees before TDC seems to work pretty well.

One other aspect to note is that the needle valve fuel control is extremely sensitive, and only wants about 1/4 turn from the bottom stop on mine.

As for run times, I've run mine in excess of three hours continuous four times now, and one of those long runs actually reach the four hour mark. Gil has gotten just about five hours on a single run. The O-rings are cheap and available and easily replaced, so that shouldn't be too much of a concern, but after about 18-20 hours of run time, mine doesn't seem to need new rings yet.

Your fuel/oil mix might be a little too oil rich at 20%, but if you are happy with it, then great. I run mine closer to 5% and it seem okay, but YMMV.

Yep, these are most certainly fun little spuds, and seem to be incredible quality for the price.

Hope any of this helps!?!?
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RedRyder

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Re: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)
« Reply #17 on: July 15, 2019, 05:59:33 am »
Hi Tom, 20% is too much oil. I like to run at about 20:1 which is about 5%.
You should have a lot of fun with your engine!

Kmot

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Re: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)
« Reply #18 on: July 15, 2019, 09:40:07 am »
Thank you Stoker for the very detailed explanation! It's amazing to learn that you and Red Ryder have run yours 4 to 5 hours non stop! Wow!

Red Ryder, I agree and when my 500ml bottle gets down to 250ml I will refill it, making my oil content 10%. :)

Stoker

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Re: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)
« Reply #19 on: July 15, 2019, 09:48:37 am »
Those run time just reflect the fuel tank capacity of about 15 ml. Jin told Gil that it is 16 ml, but I haven't managed to get quite that much into mine yet, though I do keep trying  .....    ;c)
"Information is not knowledge, Knowledge is not wisdom, Wisdom is not truth, Truth is not beauty, Beauty is not love, Love is not music: Music is THE BEST...   
Wisdom is the domain of the Wis (which is extinct). Beauty is a French phonetic corruption of a short cloth neck ornament currently in resurgence..."
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RedRyder

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Re: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)
« Reply #20 on: July 15, 2019, 09:56:45 am »
The 16 ml included filling an empty unshortened fuel line.

Stoker

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Re: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)
« Reply #21 on: July 15, 2019, 10:06:38 am »
That would be most of a ml there in the fuel line, but I don't count it because I can't keep the engine running much past the fuel line showing air for 1/3 it's length, half at best.
"Information is not knowledge, Knowledge is not wisdom, Wisdom is not truth, Truth is not beauty, Beauty is not love, Love is not music: Music is THE BEST...   
Wisdom is the domain of the Wis (which is extinct). Beauty is a French phonetic corruption of a short cloth neck ornament currently in resurgence..."
F. Zappa ... by way of Mary, the girl from the bus.

RedRyder

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Re: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)
« Reply #22 on: July 15, 2019, 10:24:53 am »
That would be most of a ml there in the fuel line, but I don't count it because I can't keep the engine running much past the fuel line showing air for 1/3 it's length, half at best.

I noticed the same. it could be easily fixed with a much thinner fuel line like the old electric blue 1st version had. I may experiment with a thinner tube that just fits insìde the fat tube we have now.

Stroke973

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Re: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)
« Reply #23 on: July 15, 2019, 02:48:42 pm »
A little trick I have found is to spray some chain lube on the timing gears. The stuff clings so well that it looks like a belt running on the gears. As for ring binding while the green banggood replacement ring is 22x1 I have been running a single 20x1 with no problems

IndianaRog

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Re: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)
« Reply #24 on: July 15, 2019, 07:48:24 pm »
I would like to replace BOTH the springs on my M90 with something that has more elasticity.  Has anyone found a commercially available source of spring that would do the trick...I would prefer to run TWO springs simultaneously vs. just removing a spring...but to do so the spring needs to allow for more stretch.

thoughts?

Rog
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RedRyder

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Re: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)
« Reply #25 on: July 16, 2019, 07:46:44 am »
Rog, I found these at a local hardware store. The 2 smallest sizes of electric motor brushes have a spring that is a good fit.
You cut the spring retainer off copper wire end holding it in place. Remove the spring and cut it in half dead center. You then use 2 needle nose pliers to put a 90 degree bend on the last loop at each end. I gave $4.40 each for them.


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IndianaRog

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Re: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)
« Reply #26 on: July 16, 2019, 03:24:54 pm »
Thanks Gil, never thought of using those...bet I can find them at ACE hardware local to me.

Thanks much,
Rog
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Nick

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Re: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)
« Reply #27 on: July 16, 2019, 03:26:05 pm »
Clever solution Gil
Nick

Doug Doty

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Re: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)
« Reply #28 on: September 19, 2021, 11:15:18 pm »
My little ET-1 has a serious problem....  I just got my Et-1 in Saturday from Banggood and it started right away and after a few minutes it started squeaking and stopped solid after less than 5 minutes run time. More like 5-6 short runs all less than 1 minute each thus far. Never even warmed up yet. I was using Coleman fuel with MMO to tint it a bit pink and oiled the moving parts and the back side of the piston with some 3in1. Mine is stuck pretty darn tight, Pulled the cylinder head for inspection and it looks oily and perfect and it had no effect on the tightness. So I loosened the right main cap and it was still tight, torqued it back down to feel correct and loosened the left main cap and bam it is loose again !  Main cap measures 12mm spot on across the open end but the crank reaching down as far as the saddle will allow with the points of my Mitutoyo vernier calipers, which should be close to 1/2 way point I am getting consistent 12.06-12.08mm across the main journal... I have to back the main cap screws off 1/2 to 3/4 turn for it to rotate smoothly, obviously not a fix in that. I know it sounds crazy but the crank seems over size.  The only other thing that can be is some galling in the saddle but still the crank measures large and I have not lifted it out as of yet due to not having a good plan to maintain the timing to put it back together. I can likely use my optivisor and a fine point scribe to mark it somehow. Let me know if there is any good ideas on what to do with it. I am considering shimming under the main cap or scribing the gears somehow and disassembling it to turn the crank or bore that main journal if necessary

P.S. It did roll over smoothly as expected at first and there is no galling at all inside that left main cap, I can see some slight rubbing in the anodizing and that is all

EDITED after some inspection....

Doug in Indiana

70Rcode

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Re: Eachine ET-1 Adjustment and Fixing (fiddling)
« Reply #29 on: September 21, 2021, 01:51:51 am »
Something seems off with your numbers.....My 2019 M-90 (same as ET-1) came thru with 8.0 mm crankshaft mains OD spinning on 8 mm ID/12 mm OD Needle Roller bearings...I later replaced the factory Needle bearings with same size Oilite type, sintered Bronze bushing....Unless your motor is built without Main bearings ???.....You might be able to easily "tweak" a similar bronze bushing to get the exact clearance needed without cap shims...