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Some Marklin eccentrics can definitely be moved and adjusted; I have done it recently on a 4158 compound where both eccentrics are held in place by tiny set screws. It would not run because the eccentrics had moved and the timing was off. I don't have a 4150 so can't say for that model, but when your eccentric is at it highest point it should be 90 degrees apart from the crank pin. If that's not the case, it has moved.
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The 4158 compound is totally different - the eccentrics can be adjusted by a little screw.
The 4150 is a single cylinder with a slip eccentric that can not be adjusted - it has a fix
stop for forwards and backwards movement.
Here a picture of the adjustable 4158:
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Here a picture of the slip eccentric with the crank arm - that makes the forced control:
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Like I said, different models are different and I don't have a 4150 to compare. Just check your timing as described in my previous post.
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Everyone ( I am new at trying to insert pictures hope it got in the right place, if not I am sure you can figure it out)
I found the problem and it was related to the issue I mentioned in my first post, the valve was not working correctly.
After checking everything that all of you suggested and finding that everything was working fine at the crank ie crank end position, slip eccentric free and operating OK I had to look elsewhere.
It was apparent the engine had been taken apart, maybe many times. The Dynamo is on backwards ie the pulley should be in alignment with the flywheel slot. In looking further, I discovered a difference in the valve connection to the eccentric rod. Mine was rotated 180 degrees from Arnold’s.
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This had to be the problem, the valve ports were not correct relative to the steam inlet and exhaust outlet. With luck the engine should run if air applied to the exhaust line. And it ran just fine, both directions with air applied to the exhaust line. I disconnected the valve from the eccentric rod and pulled it out. The exhaust port was on the top and the intake ports on the bottom, thus allowing it to run by inputting air to the exhaust line. I rotated the valve 180 degrees and reconnected everything, the engine now ran fine with air applied to the steam inlet, both directions. See video.
Thank you for all the input and Arnold for his pictures which made the resolution easier to see.
Bob
New link should have fixed sound
https://youtu.be/dJ4iJk-zNZI -
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Congrats - sometimes it is really tricky -
I ones had the same problem with an older Marklin model.
Arnold
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I do have several other questions:
1. the Dynamo needs to be turned around to run off the flywheel, is that correct? what is the output voltage?
2. the funny spring loaded oiler does look like a threaded insert into the original oil cup. It has been there a long time given that the patina seems to match. Has anyone ever seen one like that? Looks like it will screw out, then just need to make a cover. However as it has been on it a long time it might just stay as keeping it "original"
3. Arnold's 4150 has a Gauge on it, mine does not. was that optional? or just on some and not on others? Gen has a 4160 D9 that has the gauge on it. I will post it sometime.
Thanks for any additional information.
Bob -
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Good work on sorting it out Bob, sometimes it's an easy fix....just have to figure it out. once I found that someone's really messed around with a plant, everything's suspect.
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Yes the Dynamo has to be driven by the big flywheel - you have to turn it - output ca 2,5 Volts
but often the magnetos are weak and there can be only very low voltage. I think they can be
repaired it has to be re-magnetised. Don't know how to make that at home?
The Manometer was optional these days - it was available with an additional
T-Adapter. I would leave the cylinder oiler as it is - thats part of the engine's live.
Arnold -
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Congrats, Bob.! Process of elimination and observation has prevailed once again.
Gil -