Today I received a B-30 that came from Canada I really didn't need but included with the engine was its original box. I don't know why but I LOVE boxes LOL.
The engine seemed, from the photos, dead. This is because it was very much charred / blacken where the tank mets the base. I also spied solder blobs in the photos. Though from the above the base line the upper appeared NOS. So I transplanted the stack and upper to my B-30.
Man, the compression is perfect! Even the seals were in perfect shape and I was able to transfer them to my B-30. Funny thing, after I made the transfer I remembered I didn't test to see if the Canada B-30's heater was blown - nope measures properly on my volt meter!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89GCUUym7pU
I think the tank is okay, I can seen with my magnifying table lamp where the joint melted and while there seemed to be a lot of blobs I don't think the front cap is compromised. These early Empires are built like tanks. Which seeing how the heater blanket measured correctly, that just shows how well they were made.
On top of that, the tank cleaned up very nicely, if I say so myself (and I do)! Even if there is a slight leak at the seam, I think I'll just use the trick I learned here and use some Gorilla Glue gel on it (rather than try and heat it up).
Yep, leak from about the smoke stack to about half way down on the power connection side. The nickel plating was mostly hiding the gap between tank and front plate. Biggest/longest gap I've tried with Gorilla Glue gel. I'll let it sit overnight and see how that patch works tomorrow morning-ish.
I'm thinking this type of gap will allow the glue to seal pretty good, since I was able to agitate the glue into the seam/gap pretty good with a toothpick. The photo attached I have used highlights to show the whole area where the seam has been compromised but between the two read arrows is where the leak is at. Glue has been applied all along the highlighted area.
Looks like the perfect situation for flowing a bead of solder in to seal the joint, but now that you've glued it, you will never be able to do so without taking the end cap the rest of the way off and cleaning the glue residue completely before attempting to pickle and flux.
Here's hoping the glue truly does the trick for you!!!
You speak the truth. I was conflicted for a bit and as soon as I put the first dab of glue on I said out loud, "I'm committed now".
At the start of my Empire collecting I did do some seam sweating on some very poor tanks but the results weren't ideal (visually). In this case I wanted to keep the tank as pretty as possible. The tank where I used glue before it was the smaller tank and the leak smaller, it worked well and I steamed it many times since.
Glueing this tank may be a bridge (or gap as is the case) to far but it really isn't all that critical as the tank I am replacing is in pretty good shape (I have a good fall back). However, if it doesn't work or hold up, I'll 100% tell myself I was stupid using glue and should have just tried re-sweating it.
Thanks
@Stoker - it was a gamble for sure.
In Box News:
The the original Empire B-30 box was mostly coming full apart. The outer facade of the box was pealing off on 3 sides and I thought some 3M spray adhesive would sort it out but not so much. But my favorite 3M double sided tape did the job very nicely. Then inside of the box I used Red (darn near Empire red) duck tape on the corners, bottom, and the opening flaps. While I hated doing that, you can't tell from the outside at all. Interestingly at the bottom of the box was a 1951 Chicago newspaper giving the engine some cushion, I kept that in there. So it seems this little engine has done some traveling in its life. So for now, it has its forever home ;-)
Then I wrapped it up and put it under my Christmas tree, a present from me to me! I am sure the family will be amused by this and I can hear them now: "you are such a dork!" LOL