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Author Topic: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log  (Read 1694 times)

propforward

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Re: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log
« Reply #30 on: January 22, 2022, 08:19:07 am »
The basic approach to this is simple enough - mill away two sides, drill the hole for the pin. Then I chose to shape the end by hand - I'm not very good at that kind of hand work, but for this part it worked well enough. Then cut off with some stock left, into the lathe, face to length, turn the chamfer, drill and tap the hole. Here are a few pics en route. I had to use my standard approach of "make it at least twice" before it came out "well enough". It's about 0.01" too short, but I think it will work. The tang is spot on though, in terms of length, thickness and hole position.

















Made a few novice mistakes along the way, but recovered - didn't scrap the part.

Even managed to part it off, without too much drama.



Except for that blasted stub. But no matter, I left a little stock on the back face for some clean up, since I had a suspicion that parting off might not give me the final finish I want. I'll get there on that, but I know I can skim that face to a nice finish, so not too worried. Just trying to decide whether to make a little aluminum collar to hold it on the groove diameter, or just set it up in the mill and skim it there.




Can't remember for the life of me what project that resulted from, but it just needed a little boring out to size.



And when all was said and done, the backside cleaned up a treat.





Still needs a little deburring and chamfering on the inside of the lips, but you know - overall - satisfied with this part, plus tried my hand at some new things. Win!

So, finished up the eccentric hub this morning. I wanted to ACTUALLY finish it before moving on. So I did indeed chamfer the edges of the lips, which would have been a lot easier had I left the part on the stock bar a bit longer. No matter, the little collar worked well, and let me hold it securely without damaging the lips.

Then the last thing was the 5-40 hole for a grub screw.

Getting the orientation set up using a gauge pin:



Gauge pins are excellent tools to have. I bought a set a month ago, after seeing machinists at work establish locations using them, and then following up with an online tutorial from Joe Pie. I use these pins every time I am in the shoppe.

Then, drilling and tapping as has been seen and posted about a million billion times. Possibly more than that.





And there it is, hiding among the other parts, both finished, raw, part finished and of no use to anyone.





Next up is the eccentric follower.





All I did today was a little bit of clean up, and some measurements of the casting to understand how much stock I have. I'm trying to take a bit more time to get familiar with castings before actually setting them up, and try and figure out any "gotchas", and figure out what stock there is where, and therefore how to get machined surfaces located relative to surfaces that will be left raw, to make sure visual appeal is maintained. This is all part of making an attractive engine, I think.

I did get one side flat on the sanding belt. The casting started off approx 0.005" parallel between the two sides (crude measurement), and there is roughly .1" of stock to take off, so should be plenty.

I have clamped it in place ready for a skim of the other side. Only a minimum clean up right now - so that I can hold it for drilling bolt holes and cutting it in half. I'll go to final thickness after the two halves are bolted back together, so that I can make sure the center of the lobes is centered on the finished part. That's the plan anyway.



Centering the part in the 4 jaw was done crudely by aligning with a dead center. This seems to have worked well - I checked run out before boring - the inside was pretty true, the outside certainly had some visual run out, but it is not a perfectly concentric part. I decided to go with it as it was. The material removal on the ID was pretty consistent straight away, so I think this worked out well enough.



Setting up for the bosses.



I checked relative height of each side boss by touching off with the tool tip, and it was within 2 thou, as shown by the DRO in the pic after next.





Boss face clean up:





Getting ready to split. My prior set up was not thought through well enough, so I had to do a new set up to saw the part.



Obtaining center by using the saw, feeler gauge and DRO.







Clean up:



Ready for boring (probably what I'm doing to anyone looking at this thread)



Alignment:





After boring and facing:



And last but not least, the oiler hole:



I did a test fit on the eccentric hub, and annoyingly it is tight. However, I am suspicious of burrs on edges. I'm going to give both parts a deburr session and try again, but I may have to go back on the lathe and skim out a thou, which never works well. Hopefully deburring takes care of it.

Still, not a bad day. Cheers!

Well everything seems to be in order then.

propforward

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Re: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log
« Reply #31 on: January 22, 2022, 08:20:35 am »
Well I did a little close up investigation, and re measured OD of the hub and ID of the follower, and discovered that within the measuring capability of my calipers, ID and OD are identical. Couldn't have achieved that if I'd tried for it. I can get a 2 thou feeler gauge in this gap, and freely rotate the hub.



So I gave the follower a polish on the ID, and the hub a polish on the OD, and after that they go together nicely and the hub rotates freely in the follower. Sort of disappointed, but polishing those two diameters to a better finish is not a bad thing anyway I guess.





The photos tend to exaggerate surface roughness, but even so I could have done better on the face of the hub with the offset boss on it. Should have done a skim after making the offset boss. Live and learn.

After that, I didn't make any new parts, but spent the day reorganizing the shoppe to better arrange tools. I made a Version 3 roly thing:



It's just one of those cheapy wire carts, but with solid infills on all 3 shelves, and anti slip mats on the lower 2. Top one deliberately has no lip. Also added a backboard out of some scrap polypropylene sheet that was thrown out from work years ago. This serves as a clip board for prints and a white board for notes as needed. This is so any metrology tools don't sit on the top with other tools and bits of material, where they have a habit of working their way towards edges. Middle one is for said metrology tools, so that they can't be knocked off during normal use. Top is for whatever selection of tools I need for whatever I'm doing. Lower one actually now has my gauge pins on it for ready access. Quickly thrown together though this is, it's rather handy.

And then I allowed myself a look at the next engine project, for inspiration.



Mounted my collet chuck back on the lathe, and worked on the crankshaft. Even got to use my recently made carriage stop, which was hugely satisfying.



Not great finishes.



Went to test it in the base casting - fits lovely - nicely held between the journals, and it spins a treat. Not too much play, spins freely. I am exceedingly happy with this.



Now I have to mill out the center support web and turn the big end journal. I am frankly nervous that the crank will move all over the place when I mill out the support, but if it does I'll just make a built crankshaft. I had considered making a support jig, and taking out the support bridge before doing any turning - but I've read some success stories with this approach, so I just went for it.

If it doesn't move too much when I take out the bridge, then I'll make a jig to hold it and turn that center journal.

I had what I thought was a rock solid plan for finishing the crankshaft, so to that end, I popped it in the mill, to find center of the shafts, and spot the .75" offset for the crank diameter turning. Which worked great.



Small ER11 collets and a holder are jolly handy to have around for clearance issues.



A little jumping around. I decided to clean the outside of the webs to a radius while I still had the collet chuck set up.



Then cleaned the underside and removed the bridge.



I haven't been able to bring myself to check whether the thing has moved around yet.

But anyway - went to install in the 4 jaw, thinking I could hold on to one crank web and indicate the spot mark. But no go - the one shaft going into the chuck interferes with the chuck body, and I can't get it positioned right. So, I may have to make the jig that PM Research have in their plans after all.

But I didn't feel like doing that right now, so I decided to make the piston. A failry simple part really, just needing diligence on turning the diameter.

I turned diameter, then made a "sacrificial groove" on the end face, to check depth of the grooving tool, and set up the dial. Then made the grooves. This carbide grooving tool is really, really nice.



I set up a DTI to more accurately measure saddle movement.



This works so well, that I am clearly going to have to make a proper holder for it and use it routinely. Cheaper than a DRO, although more faffing about.

After grooving for a while, I cleaned up the face and drilled the 1/8" through hole. I wanted to do this in one set up, because it is important that the hole is very perpendicular to this face, as this is what locates the cylinder shaft - although really it's just the face that does that.



Parting is such sweet sorrow.

This was the best parting op I have ever done. The parted face ended up with a good surface finish. I could have parted to length - and probably will next time. First time using this tool.





Then flipped it round, faced off the little bit of clean up stock and counter bored the other side per print.





That was fun. Interesting change in surface finish on the face of the part in the last picture. Can't feel it with a fingernail - it's just from when I turned the coolant on part way through facing it. Lesson learned - perfectly fine, just looks weird. I can polish it out, but since it will be hidden in the cylinder I'm going to leave it as is.


Well everything seems to be in order then.

propforward

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Re: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log
« Reply #32 on: January 22, 2022, 08:37:35 am »
 I took a rusty old lump of some sort of steel - no idea what alloy - I liberated it when it was thrown out at work about 12 years ago. Anyway, this became the basis for a holding jig for the crankshaft. There now follows pictures, but not much explanation. (Further research leads me to believe it is 4140 HT. Partly because of the yellow identifier colour one end, and because all the materials at that little firm came from McMaster Carr - I believe that's their identifier - could be wrong).







I like my rolly-cart, which is handy for holding up drawings close at each machine, as well as essential tools. Like the engineers universal adjusting tool (coarse version).







To the mill - and centering with the very fun centering indicator.















I tried it in the 3 jaw first - the design of the jig (slightly different to mine) comes from PM Research, and the idea is to use it this way to get the crank throw. It works well, I only ended up 0.003" off.

However, I never intended to use the 3 jaw (although let's face it, that would work fine), but I got it to 0.0005" in the 4 jaw.










Crankshaft finished, and made a start on the connecting rod.























Holes in big end drilled.



Note that I left the casting gate in place, and also milled it flat as a reference surface.

Then re-positioned to get the little end hole drilled. I used that reference surface as an aid to squaring up the part. I used a pin gauge of the same diameter as the little end OD to do a visual centering alignment.



Drilled and reamed for a pin.



I then went and drilled a 1/4" hole at the finished distance (3.375") from the little end. This will give me a visual aid when I saw the big end in the next step.

Now - I was sorely tempted to make a 3/8" slot, to become a 3/8" hole after slitting the big end. However - I felt that was being too cocky. I've seen it done - but the guy who did it is a highly experienced production machinist. You can see the video on youtube.

For now I'm taking the simple approach.

Pleased with this though - the holes are nicely centered.



Next step is to slit the big end, bolt it back together and finish the big end bore.


Well everything seems to be in order then.

propforward

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Re: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log
« Reply #33 on: January 22, 2022, 08:39:41 am »
Made the other half of the valve arm linkage.





Still need to radius the lobes, which I shall do on the belt sander once I have made a rod to hold on to it. On future engines I'll use a radius cutter or some other technique to properly radius the ends of these kinds of parts, for now a gentle hand applied radius will do.

Nuts!

Well, cross slide nut.



I also made the hex locking nut for the piston rod. No pics of that - a simple enough part.

So, family shot as it stands now, including the ghost of Engine Past - my beloved Elmer Number 14, and at least one scrap item I see.



These are awkward little parts.





I putzed around for a while trying to come up with various half baked approaches to holding the castings, getting ever impatient, but managed to reign myself in, decided to just take whatever time was needed and make some sort of holding fixture.

The techniques I have seen for making these parts include super gluing them to aluminum bosses, and pressure turning. I don't want to use those approaches, I prefer mechanical holding, so that was my approach.

First off, cleaned the casting gates off.



Then started scratching up some ideas, based on some measurements from the actual casting. I have a bunch of 1" diameter aluminum slugs laying around, all 5/8" long. These were thrown out by a previous employer. No idea what they were for, but they do come in handy from time to time.



The idea initially was to make essentially a holder in soft material so that I could turn the holder as well as the part. I was at first considering the pressure turning route.

Since I already had the collet chuck mounted and trued, this gave me a nice way of getting in close to the part.





It was at this point that I decided to add four tapped holes for set screws to clamp the part. I wish I had decided on that first, it would have been better to tap the holes on the circumference before boring the recess.

Anyway this meant making use of the new dividing head, in order to add 4 tapped holes around the circumference. This is just a pic of the head getting trued up.





So the tapped holes went in wonky because of course I was drilling into half thickness material at some points. But it still worked.









After machining to size on the lathe, this left only the two screw holes for clamping the gland to the steam chest - so another advantage of this little fixture was that I could transfer the part to the dividing head chuck and maintain concentricity of the boss and through hole to the OD of the fixture.

I used a gauge pin in the collet holder to center the spindle axis to the part, then moved the table to position the gauge pin at 1/4" distance from the center, and simply rotated the dividing head, visually aligning each lobe to the pin - obviously moving the pin from one side to the other. Then clamped the dividing head, changed over to the #41 drill, and drilled the two holes.



When all was said and done, the part came out well. The one side does not look centered, but that's a result of my over clean up on one side.





Up close it looks a bit rough, and does need a debur - but dimensionally it is spot on and fits the steam chest perfectly. So whereas I am usually lamenting about things not going right, this time it turned out, and I'm happy with it.

I made a start on some test assembly.



Very pleased to find that I can turn the crank over with my fingers, and the piston rod slides nicely in and out of the inboard head. Very, very pleased with this. Just need to stay the course now - it's finally looking kinda sorta like an engine.

I made another holding fixture for the cylinder gland. This time I got the sequence right, and drilled and tapped the set screw holes before boring / drilling. I also put them in at a slight angle (about 1°) so that when tightening on the part, they force it down into the fixture. That was the idea anyway, and it seems to have worked.

The bore was made to tightly fit the largest diameter of the gland, to help hold it concentric to the center axis.









I did have an oops. Tool dug in - I must have tried to take too much off.



I t dug into the part and made it look ugly - but happily there was a fair bit of stock still to come off, so it cleaned up OK.





Off to the mill - centered using a gauge pin,



then rotated the part back and forth until a gauge pin looked even on both ears, and then drilled the holes.





Rotten finish on the front. It buffed up OK though.

I had been working on a follow rest system for supporting small diameter shafts for turning and single point threading. It was way too complicated, and a complete failure. Based on something I saw Joe Pie demonstrate on youtube, and also on a thread on this very forum, I modified the follow rest and made it much simpler, and a lot more effective.

Essentially, I am just using my lathe follow rest, but I had made a new adjusting shaft and a bracket for it. The original idea was to use a couple of very small ball bearings to support the shaft.

In the end though, it's easier to bolt a piece of material (in this case a piece of phenolic) to the bracket, and just use an end mill in the chuck to drill a hole in situ, so that the support is perfectly centered.





It's then very easy to position the cutting tool close to the support for whatever work you need to do.



I used the "upside down tool" approach for single point threading, so that the cutting tool moves away from the headstock.



And it works a treat.





So I'm well pleased with that - no need for expensive dies for cutting small threads. Just as well, because the cheap dies are awful, I have had no luck with them at all - a waste of money. But this follow rest approach works really well.
Well everything seems to be in order then.

propforward

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Re: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log
« Reply #34 on: January 22, 2022, 08:40:53 am »
 I made the 4 off 5-40 brass nuts for this engine. Not exactly thrilling stuff, but I put my new mini chuck to use, and it worked a treat. Not very complex so I'm not going to waste your time with a blow by blow account, but here they are with the mini chuck in use







That little chuck is going to be exceptionally useful over time.

Two "whoops" moments today. The first was sweeping my precious nuts off the bench onto the floor. Happily found my nuts again though.

The second had me turning the air blue.



I was going to re make the connecting rod out of bar stock, and figured out an intricate sequence to machine it without marking out, using a rotary table to make various rounded features. I'm pretty sure that would have (or could have) worked, but on a whim I called PM Research and discovered the price of a new casting was six dollars. With brass bar being close to the value of gold, or so it seems, I bought the replacement part. I was pleased to discover that PM Research have been so busy they have had to add more staff just to deal with orders. The nice lady I spoke to was very new, and I was her first foray into supplying spare parts. In the background I heard one of the main people there assuring her that "lot's of people need to buy replacement part one offs". I suppose that reassured me a bit also.

Anyway, here is a sequence of pictures for the sake of it. Made much the same as the last one, although I hope to get the split line in the right place this time.

I have learned to spend a fair amount of time measuring castings and understanding the starting part, so as to think through where the stock is on the part, and understand whether the starting part is symmetrical, or how it relates to the finished part. After that I drew up a machining plan. So first step was getting the thickness of the bosses to size, which involved taking slightly more off one side over the other to try and keep the bolt bosses central.





I then set up a knee (angle plate - we call them knees at work, and I quite enjoy using that term) to hold the part for drilling and tapping the bolt bosses. I aligned it by touching off on the tops and sides of each bolt boss, and tweaking it until they were evened out.



I machined off some of the gate feature - but not all of it. This is a qualifying surface - i.e. one I can use to register in later operations, knowing it is perpendicular to the axis of the part. I also cleaned the tops of the bolt bosses.



Having done that, I established the center of the part by touching off on the sides in both X and Y directions. I spotted the qualified surface just in case that might be useful later on. Then drilled and tapped the bolt holes.



Then I set up an aluminum jig plate that I had used previously to hold the bed casting (sole plate?). I used this piece of aluminium because I had fly cut it previously on both sides, and I knew it was flat and parallel, and also preferred over drilling into the mill table. I suppose I could have used this in the first place and drilled the holes in the part in the same set up as milling the thicknesses. Oh well.





Here I am using the qualified surface to verify squareness to the X and Y axes.



I used a gauge pin to center the little end under the spindle - just done visually to get the zero point.



After that I lightly marked the center of the little and big ends, and performed a quick measurement of the big end to be sure I was central.



After drilling and reaming the two holes, I was pleased to find that a .250 gauge pin would slide in, but a .251 gauge pin would not.



Note: I checked the little end using the actual wrist pin as well, in case I needed to ream slightly over to fit that, but it fit perfectly. Also - the final hole size in the big end will be .375. I have a .25 hole in there right now to aid in set up for slitting the big end. After that is done, and the caps milled to size, then the end cap will be attached and the hole opened up to .375. I probably don't need the .25 hole in place, but I think it may help visually, plus I can touch off on a gauge pin inserted in it when setting up the slitting operation. This is the part I got wrong before (aside from breaking the thing being foolish later on). So - getting there. But that's all for today.

Well everything seems to be in order then.

propforward

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Re: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log
« Reply #35 on: January 22, 2022, 08:42:06 am »
I had some fun today making these fiddly little fellows - oil cups. I ground a 45 degree chamfer tool which made short work of these. Not much to them really, although drilling the little through hole takes some care. Otherwise pretty simple - but being so small I am rather pleased with the result.





The inside finish isn't the best - maybe the drill wasn't in the best shape.





Still not too shabby and they look the part well enough.



Not many parts left now. I need to form up the eccentric connecting rod, then it's time for the flywheel, then assembly and test.

time for the flywheel. I spent a good half hour first filing off some of the sharp parting lines on the spokes and rim ID, and just generally smoothing it out and cleaning it up. My chosen approach for machining sequence  was to mount it on a faceplate, but stood off from the faceplate on some aluminum spacers - 3 of them - around the rim. I set that all up on the bench, and measured the clearance between the backside of the hub and the faceplate, and machined an aluminum support block to fit snugly in there, so as to not spring the hub when making the bore. As you can see, the spokes are quite spindly.

During set up I also measured the flywheel and the gap behind the rim in multiple places, to make sure the casting was sitting fairly parallel to the faceplate. Although there is plenty of stock I don't want it mounted at an angle, resulting in a thin rim in places or something weird. Then I transferred the set up to the lathe, where I tried to center the ID of the rim and the OD of the hub by eye, using a pointer.





The idea is to try and keep cast features concentric so that things don't look completely out of whack when operating. In the end, it turns out that the opposite sides of the casting were mis matched, and there was a flat spot on the rim, so I could only do so much to keep the as cast features running true - but I at least balanced it as best as I could.

Then I took my time to make sure that I could actually get tools in where they needed to go.



I wasn't planning to turn the OD of the hub - but made sure I had the option available.



Setting up to make sure I could run the tool completely off the rim:



It all worked like a charm, and went without drama. I ran the lathe in back gear at 50 rpm, so as not to risk my set up, but it was completely solid. No singing, ringing or squealing from the part during machining - it went very well indeed.

I did find a couple of casting voids in the rim. I elected not to remove them all the way.



The bore was made by drilling with 4 different sizes of drill to remove most of the material. Then I changed over to a boring tool to take out about 25 thou. My thinking here is that this gives a better chance of making the hole concentric and parallel to the axis of the rim - a drill might have wandered a bit. When there was only 0.008" left to go, I changed over to a chucking reamer to finish the hole.



Checking the bore along the way with gauge pins. Exceptionally versatile tools - I am so glad I purchased a set.



Final check after reaming - a 375 minus pin slips in, a 376 does not. Perfect!



I did not take pictures of the second side - but all that happened there was in essence the same as the first side, the only difference being that I clamped the machined surface of the rim directly to the face plate, and then trued the part up by clocking on the machined outer diameter of the rim.

Once that was complete I transferred to the mill for the locking screw feature - which is a tapped hole through the hub at 15°. For that I set up and angle plate at 15°, which was established using an angle slip gauge to the milling table.

Here I have the flywheel clamped to the angle plate at the hub. Set up is not yet complete, but I ran out of energy somewhat, and besides it's time to get supper going.



So tomorrow I hope to finish clamping the flywheel, then get the upright spoke as close to upright as possible. Then I'll find the center of the wheel, mill a flat in the hub, and drill and tap the screw hole. And that will be that.

Well everything seems to be in order then.

propforward

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Re: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log
« Reply #36 on: January 22, 2022, 08:43:34 am »
I drilled the locking screw hole in the flywheel. Spot faced first, then center drilled, then the tap drill. I have this nice ER11 collet holder which lets me get in to tight spaces such as this, and makes the drilling and tapping a breeze. Much better concentricity than a pin vise style holder.





Couldn't use a tap holder, so I just used the ER11 set up to hold the tap. Disengaged the gears and turned it by hand.



I then spent some time doing some assembly. This is what I have so far.









I got this far, and was having trouble getting the steam chest cover screws in, and also the screws for the valve rod gland. Not too surprising, since I hadn't tapped them yet.  :embarassed:

Still, I was able to manually turn everything over, and there are a couple of areas that would benefit from some tweaking, so I will strip it all down and address those items, and maybe next weekend I'll be able to give it its first test on air.

I tapped the remaining holes, and reassembled today. After spending a little time setting up the timing carefully, I attached a compressed air line and the engine took off immediately without me having to touch it! You can imagine that I was quite delighted at that. Here is a little video I shot to show it running. I am pleased. It is far from perfect, but it runs quite well. It is worth going the extra distance to now strip it and paint it, and make a base of some sort for it, but otherwise I consider it complete and shall move on to another project.

It runs well at about 12 psi. 10 psi is getting on the edge, and below that it stalls.



The experiment was not a dismal failure, even if not a complete success.

The valve started thus



I filed the edges to be built up to get them clean, and degreased the part in acetone, then set it up on my weld table in a clamp.



Showing the part the business end of my TIG torch. This is a 3/32 electrode, and a 1/16" would have been more appropriate.



Anyway, as blobby as it looks I did manage to build up the edges with some silicon bronze.



After some initial machining and clean up, I ascertained that the silicon bronze was properly bonded to the part, and it actually machined well.



However, I had not built up the edge quite enough, so after clean up and machining I only gained a small amount on each side. At this point I decided I had put enough time into this. Overall the concept showed signs of success, and I managed to build up the tiny part without completely melting it, so I'm pleased with that - but now I'm just going to move on with life and make a new valve.

Here it is so far:



A simple part really, I'll finish it tomorrow.

I have also been painting the engine - I degreased everything in isopropyl alcohol in a cheap ultrasonic bath, then primed with automotive primer, and let cure overnight.



And then made use of my scale model spray booth to paint it, using a tin of RAF roundel blue enamel paint that I've had since about 1996 or something.





It's perhaps a little brighter than I intended, but overall I quite like it.

So - more progress. I have to figure out a base yet, haven't decided what to do for that.
Well everything seems to be in order then.

propforward

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Re: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log
« Reply #37 on: January 22, 2022, 08:45:43 am »
And - finished engine, although I still need to make a better display base.

Well everything seems to be in order then.

Rambling Ed

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Re: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log
« Reply #38 on: January 23, 2022, 06:26:43 pm »
Real nice posting. It's really nice to be able to make things for yourself in the shop. If you make a mistake during work time you have to deal with the boss. Real nice machining. Good job.

Quickj

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Re: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log
« Reply #39 on: January 23, 2022, 08:43:23 pm »
I enjoyed the full build log on this.  Looks like you have a really nice shop, and well equipped.

Jim in Minnesota
A complex system that does not work is invariably found to have evolved from a simple system that worked just fine.
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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCv2_Ao6XtHt9bXvJCiKYtpw

krypto31337

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Re: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log
« Reply #40 on: January 24, 2022, 01:13:59 pm »
Nice job!
My Workshop Blog:  http://doug.sdf.org/

propforward

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Re: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log
« Reply #41 on: January 24, 2022, 04:50:37 pm »
Thanks all - glad you enjoyed it.


I enjoyed the full build log on this.  Looks like you have a really nice shop, and well equipped.

Jim in Minnesota

Hey Jim, I'm in Minnesota as well. It has been a labor of love for quite a few years, but I'm pretty happy with how the shop has turned out, and I sure enjoy being in it. I subscribed to your channel, some great videos on there, I'll be watching them all this evening!
Well everything seems to be in order then.

Quickj

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Re: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log
« Reply #42 on: January 24, 2022, 06:04:03 pm »
I have subscribed to your channel as well. Given how many shows there are in Minnesota every year, are there any that you attend?

Jim in Minnesota
A complex system that does not work is invariably found to have evolved from a simple system that worked just fine.
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propforward

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Re: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log
« Reply #43 on: January 25, 2022, 09:02:40 am »
I went to Rollag and Nowthen last year. I was looking at your channel last night, and I definitely have Black Hills and Atwater on my list for this year. Next year I'd like to get to Cabin Fever. I didn't go this year just because of covid, but with a bit of luck we'll be done with that by next year.

Loved your video of your Unimat machines - very nice indeed!
Well everything seems to be in order then.

Nick

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Re: PM Research Number 1 - Build Log
« Reply #44 on: January 25, 2022, 09:30:13 am »
I went to Rollag and Nowthen last year. I was looking at your channel last night, and I definitely have Black Hills and Atwater on my list for this year. Next year I'd like to get to Cabin Fever. I didn't go this year just because of covid, but with a bit of luck we'll be done with that by next year.

I was at Rollag Friday and Saturday last year. I need to make it to Atwater, but it’s the same weekend as James Valley Threshers in Andover, SD…
Nick