This is probably a stupid question

This is probably a stupid question
Posted by Timvrip on 19 Nov, 2024 13:56
If I want to paint a nickel plated boiler black is there a way to do that?

I’m thinking about doing a diorama of a steam powered woodworking shop and I want the steam plant to be all or mostly black.
Worse comes to worse I can leave the boiler in nickel and make everything else black.
I plan to use a Wilesco D20 that I just purchased. I was going to use my Jensen riveted-boiler 25, but can’t I bring myself to deface it.

Any suggestions?

Merci, Tim

#1 Reply
Posted by Stoker on 19 Nov, 2024 14:55
Either put a jacket on the boiler that you are willing to paint instead of the boiler itself or possibly consider lagging it.

#2 Reply
Posted by Timvrip on 19 Nov, 2024 15:14
A jacket. I didn’t think of that. Good idea.

Merci beaucoup!

I’ve been collecting drive models of different woodworking machines. I have a table saw, drill press, lathe and a grinder/buffer. Only thing I lack is a band saw and I’ll have a complete shop.

#3 Reply
Posted by Weedensteam on 19 Nov, 2024 15:16
The D20 does look good with a black boiler, this may just be the lighting in this photo as it is listed as a polished nickel plated boiler on the Amazon page. Not sure I would advise painting yours though.

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#4 Reply
Posted by Timvrip on 19 Nov, 2024 16:06
That looks pretty black to me. Maybe Wilesco has a black jacket for sale, although I doubt it.

I’ll post some photos as this build progresses. It’s going to be fun.

#5 Reply
Posted by Nick on 19 Nov, 2024 16:23
Stefan’s Oldsmoky has painted several Wilesco boilers, maybe contact him and see what has worked best

#6 Reply
Posted by classixs on 19 Nov, 2024 22:46
I'd just de-grease and spray the boiler with some heat resistant paint, and leave the bottom part sitting within the firebox unpainted.
Downside to just spraypainting as is, would be that the paint obviously won't stick extremely well, to such a smooth surface.
But if handled responsibly, I think it will suffice for normal use.
Upside would be, that the paint can be very easily removed again with paint thinner or similar solvents, and the boiler returned to original condition.

#7 Reply
Posted by Fullraceflathead on 20 Nov, 2024 09:53
I think the idea of using lagging would look so much better and more realistic!!!

#8 Reply
Posted by Timvrip on 20 Nov, 2024 10:08
What exactly does using lagging mean? I always thought lagging was the asbestos (or whatever) wrapping around steam pipes. A lot of modelers of steam plants use string that is wrapped around pipes and then painted with white paint to simulate the real thing.
I’m learning by doing.
Anyone have any pics of what lagging is?
Thanks

#9 Reply
Posted by Woe is me on 20 Nov, 2024 10:11
I've painted a boiler before, back in 2012 and it still looks as good now as it did then.
This may sound like sacrilege but it was a Jensen boiler that needed a new plating job
but I wasn't going there.
I removed everything from the boiler and scuffed the surface lightly and evenly with 800
grit paper. Wiped it down with denatured alcohol, plugged the holes with corks and sprayed
it VHT Black paint. Once it dried I removed the corks and bake it in the oven at 250 degrees
for an hour. To me it looks good but I can always swap it out for nicer nickel one down the
road. It looks like this.

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#10 Reply
Posted by Timvrip on 20 Nov, 2024 11:06
That looks really good. I might give that a try.
Thanks

#11 Reply
Posted by RichSteamTx on 20 Nov, 2024 13:03
I'd love to hear about brands of paint used that end up being durable during steaming!

I've just painted a Weeden Big Giant that has a steel tank that was nickel coated. The nickel wasn't in good shape to begin with but then I discovered it had bad rust and started to leak on each steam up.

So it was either a loss or try something. I first sealed the inside with KBS cycle tank sealer, which that has worked. However, the 1st stage of eating the rust out took what was left of the nickel and even exposed 4 pin holes. I used JB Weld as a outside patch for the pin holes. Then I needed to deal with the outside as it was just steel, so I had to paint.

I thought I was being good by selecting Rust-Oleum high heat paint but misread the label. To properly cure this paint, you need to bake it to 450 for 1 hour. Which isn't very good for the lead parts on a early Weeden. I did about 3~4 hours at 325 but I have a feeling the paint will still get soft when steaming up (my first steam up before the 325 wasn't pretty). I'll just have to be care but likely the engine will mostly stay as a "display".

Anyways, I think painting is workable but don't use Rust-Oleum high heat paint or any other high heat paint that requires 450 curing. Even if you don't have lead parts, you likely have solider joints. Granted different soliders have different melting points, unless you know you have silver solder joints (which I am pretty sure Weedens don't).

Here is my painted Big Giant, the black & sliver are the same paint type. The black on the base & stack has done very well but I think that is because it gets fairly hot from the burner. The Silver on the tank, is where I think it will keep on getting soft during steaming. Or perhaps after time it will get harder...

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#12 Reply
Posted by Timvrip on 20 Nov, 2024 13:50
Very nice. I’m definitely going to explore the paint option.
Paint availability can be kind of sparse here in France. They regulate toxic substances over here to a greater degree than in the U.S.
I might have to rely on Amazon.

#13 Reply
Posted by Stoker on 20 Nov, 2024 14:03
Quote from: Timvrip on 20 Nov, 2024 10:08
What exactly does using lagging mean? I always thought lagging was the asbestos (or whatever) wrapping around steam pipes. A lot of modelers of steam plants use string that is wrapped around pipes and then painted with white paint to simulate the real thing.
I’m learning by doing.
Anyone have any pics of what lagging is?
Thanks

Boiler lagging in the model world, is most commonly done using strips of wood, but strips of most any good insulative material would work.

In many cases, the actual insulative lagging is covered with a sheet metal jacket, as is common on Locomotives!

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