Post by: SeeSteam on June 04, 2019, 08:06:29 am
Oh, in the video, at first I used the stock burner then I used 3 copper pipe cap wadding burners. The surface area controls the heat level. The goal is a vigorous flame that doesn't touch the firebox. Reading about the spirit burners, wick selection (density) is very important. I personally think the Bing mushrooms are a bad design as there isn't a cup shape to it so over siphoning cannot be contained. I noticed that the Fleischmann that I am getting has a tiny cup shape to the mushroom and therefore must be safer.
Post by: Nick on June 04, 2019, 06:19:50 am
Mmm... I mixed up 75% alcohol and my Bing burner wouldn’t ignite the mushrooms. Erm...
It takes time too ignite, I use a pencil torch to heat the mushroom. (at least 30 seconds to a minute)
Post by: RON on June 04, 2019, 04:46:48 am
Post by: SeeSteam on June 04, 2019, 01:42:52 am
Post by: SeeSteam on June 04, 2019, 12:23:15 am
Post by: SeeSteam on June 03, 2019, 11:44:02 pm
So I poured it into my home made wadding burners inspired by Mamod and it run great. Nick, I’ll take your advice, I’ll just get 151 Everclear next time.
Right now I have cotton below a fine stainless mesh but will eventually put in wool instead as per the Mamod burners. When I fill these, after starting up can tip them on the side and even upside down and the fire stays put. Super duper easy to make as they are just copper end caps. The fine wire screen was cheap and is made for vape burners. With the mesh the cotton resists burning so its a very clean flame. But the cotton does carbonized a bit at the surface so wool would be superior.
“Wool is harder to ignite than many common textile fibres. While cotton catches alight at 255°C, the temperature must reach 570–600°C before wool will ignite.”
I actually do have a N.O.S. Fleischmann mushroom style burner on its way so I will see if it’s as troublesome.
Post by: SeeSteam on June 03, 2019, 11:34:36 pm
On my Marklin that lacked its carb, I ended make a brass cup around a stainless mesh wick and it works flawless.
Mamod burners by design have a similar cup. So they don’t siphon.
Post by: Jim on June 03, 2019, 11:28:16 pm
Post by: Nick on June 03, 2019, 09:48:31 pm
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47997719842_89e2df3b1d_z.jpg)
Post by: SeeSteam on June 03, 2019, 09:40:00 pm
Post by: SeeSteam on June 03, 2019, 05:36:52 pm
Also mushrooms must fit very tight, one of them fitted a little bit loose but since the photos I've widened it out and now fits tight
Post by: Scorpion2nz on June 03, 2019, 01:11:08 am
Nice work Dennis!
What did you use for the mushroom?
All made from flat sheet brass.
Bottom part formed then silver soldered to a brass pipe .
Top also brass domed shaped and drilled ( 1 mm holes) and also silver soldered to base
Post by: Nick on June 02, 2019, 11:11:25 pm
Post by: Nick on June 02, 2019, 11:08:14 pm
What did you use for the mushroom?
Post by: Scorpion2nz on June 02, 2019, 07:31:52 pm
No embossing on the front plate yet.
The flame photo was before the pilot tubes installed as I needed to know if it would work .
There was a successful trial this morning and the pilot flames did their job .
A little slower due to heavier gauge material used .[attachimg=2][attachimg=3][attachimg=4][attachimg=5][attachurl=6][attachimg=6][attachimg=7]
Post by: SeeSteam on June 02, 2019, 05:56:26 pm
This website recommends JBWeld for alcohol stoves when not used above the flame line. Nice thing about JBWeld, is my wicks will remain.
Post by: SeeSteam on June 02, 2019, 05:07:45 pm
I noticed the pilot wicks feed into the tank a couple of inches, so I suspect a modification from a previous owner.
I will solder them in.
I'd love to see a photo of the one you made. :)
Post by: Scorpion2nz on June 02, 2019, 02:02:45 pm
I have just finished studying a single mushroom bing burner and then made a twin mushroom burner yesterday
for my Bing 130/605 .
Cheers
Dennis
Post by: SeeSteam on June 02, 2019, 08:24:47 am
Decided to use this Bing vaporizing burner that came with my engine. I replaced the wicks in it as they were shot. And it didn't burn evenly.
I made new wicks with torn and trimmed cotton coarse sheet. I trimmed both pilot and mushroom wicks flush.
If you look at the picture, there is flame at the base of the pilot wicks. They are little pipes pushed into the tin. Perhaps they were soldered in at some point? Now they are press fit. Is that correct?
The fire seems rather energetic but perhaps that is correct.
This is my first carb burner.
My Märklin's are missing their carbs but I have those dialed in and don't kick out as much flame as this. What I did on my carb-less Märklin was make a brass insert that holds the metal mesh wick, which is cupped a little on top. It "holds" the flame. I think it works quite well. Lots of trial and error to get that dialed in!
Back to the question at hand... Does that burn look correct? Or do I need to seal around the pilot wicks?