Post by: 70Rcode on September 21, 2021, 07:07:57 am
ID "Crush" interference fit of 0.002" to prevent a spun bearing effect...Unless your ET-1 came with an entirely new crank/Main bearing/Main cap design....
Post by: 70Rcode on September 21, 2021, 01:51:51 am
Post by: Doug Doty on September 19, 2021, 11:15:18 pm
P.S. It did roll over smoothly as expected at first and there is no galling at all inside that left main cap, I can see some slight rubbing in the anodizing and that is all
EDITED after some inspection....
Doug in Indiana
Post by: Nick on July 16, 2019, 03:26:05 pm
Post by: IndianaRog on July 16, 2019, 03:24:54 pm
Thanks much,
Rog
Post by: RedRyder on July 16, 2019, 07:46:44 am
You cut the spring retainer off copper wire end holding it in place. Remove the spring and cut it in half dead center. You then use 2 needle nose pliers to put a 90 degree bend on the last loop at each end. I gave $4.40 each for them.
[attachimg=1]
Post by: IndianaRog on July 15, 2019, 07:48:24 pm
thoughts?
Rog
Post by: Stroke973 on July 15, 2019, 02:48:42 pm
Post by: RedRyder on July 15, 2019, 10:24:53 am
That would be most of a ml there in the fuel line, but I don't count it because I can't keep the engine running much past the fuel line showing air for 1/3 it's length, half at best.
I noticed the same. it could be easily fixed with a much thinner fuel line like the old electric blue 1st version had. I may experiment with a thinner tube that just fits insėde the fat tube we have now.
Post by: Stoker on July 15, 2019, 10:06:38 am
Post by: RedRyder on July 15, 2019, 09:56:45 am
Post by: Stoker on July 15, 2019, 09:48:37 am
Post by: Kmot on July 15, 2019, 09:40:07 am
Red Ryder, I agree and when my 500ml bottle gets down to 250ml I will refill it, making my oil content 10%. :)
Post by: RedRyder on July 15, 2019, 05:59:33 am
You should have a lot of fun with your engine!
Post by: Stoker on July 15, 2019, 12:42:42 am
One other aspect to note is that the needle valve fuel control is extremely sensitive, and only wants about 1/4 turn from the bottom stop on mine.
As for run times, I've run mine in excess of three hours continuous four times now, and one of those long runs actually reach the four hour mark. Gil has gotten just about five hours on a single run. The O-rings are cheap and available and easily replaced, so that shouldn't be too much of a concern, but after about 18-20 hours of run time, mine doesn't seem to need new rings yet.
Your fuel/oil mix might be a little too oil rich at 20%, but if you are happy with it, then great. I run mine closer to 5% and it seem okay, but YMMV.
Yep, these are most certainly fun little spuds, and seem to be incredible quality for the price.
Hope any of this helps!?!?
Post by: Kmot on July 14, 2019, 10:12:57 pm
I really enjoy this engine. It is one of the most fun miniature engines I have run.
BTW, how is the timing adjusted?
Post by: RedRyder on June 09, 2019, 04:28:25 pm
It appears these little wonders have a pretty strong ignition.
First I pulled the plug at shut down after a 1 hour run. It was a bit oily looking but quite clean.
Then I fired it in open air (granted compression will change things)
Then I poured oil directly into the plug to "drown" it... It still fired.
Enjoy,
Gil
https://youtu.be/MHrxFJZ-CU8
Post by: Stoker on June 09, 2019, 03:09:07 pm
Well done that ... Well Done Indeed!!!
Post by: Stroke973 on June 09, 2019, 01:25:00 pm
Post by: Swift Fox on June 09, 2019, 01:12:03 pm
Quote from: RedRyder
Right now I am running it on 100 octane low lead aircraft fuel mixed 10-1 with Marvel mystery oil. It is firing 24 to 28 times a minute, spinning 32-34 revolutions between firing and the highest temperature anywhere on the engine 90-92 degrees after an hour of running. The head at the base of the spark plug is just 85 degrees. The plug is not fouling with my clearly too oily mixture.
Interesting to hear you are running it on 100LL Avgas Gil, i'd be more worried about lead fouling the plug than oil. Most aircraft engines are run above idle to prevent this from happening so it will be interesting to see if it has any effect on your engine since i imagine the combustion temps will be quite low.
Post by: RedRyder on June 09, 2019, 11:59:41 am
I just did an inspection on mine while waiting on ignition parts and everything looks good and the piston had a nice film of oil.I run 87 octane 40 to1 two stroke oil. If it lubes my high reving weed eater it should be good enough. I also run the the timing retarded a few degrees. While this reduces power it make starting easier. Running one spring I run a tank of fuel without stopping and the head temp only reaches about 105 f. My thoughts on running camp fuel at 55 octane and any advanced timing could cause detonation and possible damage. I see where some add wd40 which will burn and possibly not leave residua! lube for the coasting strokes. I also stand the engine on its end and apply some 30 W oil to the of the piston for the wrist pin. For what its worth I may be wrong but I'm not far from it.
Hi Stroke973, It does not seem to detonate on Coleman fuel with mystery oil or 2 cycle oil added. I also manually oil the skirt end of the piston. I usually use a high grade synthetic clock oil or Mobil 1 0W-20. Both flow easily and hold a film for a long time. I agree regarding WD-40. It is not a good lubricant other than on a very temporary basis.
I avoid regular gasoline in part because it has ethanaol and because it contains a lengthy list of poisons designed to be more completely combusted and then pushed through a catalytic converter at 1400-1800 degrees which can't happen in an engine like this.
Right now I am running it on 100 octane low lead aircraft fuel mixed 10-1 with Marvel mystery oil. It is firing 24 to 28 times a minute, spinning 32-34 revolutions between firing and the highest temperature anywhere on the engine 90-92 degrees after an hour of running. The head at the base of the spark plug is just 85 degrees. The plug is not fouling with my clearly too oily mixture. At these low temps, the oil is pushed out through the exhaust while keeping the upper cylinder very well lubricated. As expected, it makes a little more grunt with the lower octane white gas camp fuel and without detonation at these low temps. I also have some 94 octane pure gasoline (unleaded) that is sold for yard machines and is available straight up or pre-mixed at 50/1 for 2 cycle engines.
Gil
Post by: RedRyder on June 09, 2019, 09:10:01 am
One of the bigger changes from David Kerzel's original design was using o-rings for piston rings, in this case two of them. Even if you add a bit of lube into the fuel, the back o-ring won't get any unless you add it from the outside. You are also limited in how much oil you can add in the fuel or you will just foul the spark plug.
I think it's telling that the only spare part that Banggood sells for this engine is o-rings. I'm thinking about adding a drip oiler to mine like the original Kerzel design as it's probably even more important for this engine to help with the longevity of the o-rings. Unfortunately, it's a tricky job to perform when the engine is completed as even a tiny burr at the edge of the hole will instantly ruin an o-ring.
For longer runs, I also keep a bit of water in the engine to better transfer the heat from the cylinder to the outside of the engine. The cooler the o-rings stay the better.
Hi krypto31337, You need not be concerned about an o-ring going over a back of the hopper oil port as both o-rings are very near the top of the piston and will not glide over your oil port.
Gil
Post by: Stroke973 on June 09, 2019, 08:35:18 am
Post by: krypto31337 on June 09, 2019, 08:33:17 am
I think it's telling that the only spare part that Banggood sells for this engine is o-rings. I'm thinking about adding a drip oiler to mine like the original Kerzel design as it's probably even more important for this engine to help with the longevity of the o-rings. Unfortunately, it's a tricky job to perform when the engine is completed as even a tiny burr at the edge of the hole will instantly ruin an o-ring.
For longer runs, I also keep a bit of water in the engine to better transfer the heat from the cylinder to the outside of the engine. The cooler the o-rings stay the better.
Post by: Nick on June 09, 2019, 01:58:57 am
Post by: RedRyder on June 08, 2019, 11:09:25 pm
Enjoy!
Gil
https://youtu.be/bLb8MTPXPDk
https://youtu.be/aWlwi4eRZBk
Post by: RedRyder on June 08, 2019, 11:07:11 pm
Gil mine had a little scoring of the cylinder also but I just put new orings in and it was fine. I think the orings get hard after heat and start to loose elasticity. Mine actually sounded squeaky like tennis shoes on a wood floor when turned slowly by hand. It caused it to hit more often and tried to stall. The new 20mm x 1mm orings from oringsandmore.com quieted mine completely.
Thanks, Tim. I just ordered some 20mm X 1mm o-rings.
Until they arrive I removed one of them. Mine squeaked too!
They squeaked from the very beginning.
Gil
Post by: RedRyder on June 08, 2019, 10:33:50 pm
I reassembled and tested. It would still bind up on occasion.
I lightened the spring tension more to slow it down and still had a little binding after running a while.
Out came the piston far enough to remove one of the two o-rings.
This at least seems to have done the trick.
I also retarded the timing some more to get it closer to top dead center. It had been firing pretty early.
I have made a little video footage to go with this including a piece of slow motion video.
Gil
Post by: Steamandoil (Tim) on June 08, 2019, 10:33:22 pm
Post by: RedRyder on June 08, 2019, 10:25:21 pm
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Post by: RedRyder on June 08, 2019, 10:23:52 pm
It would run good for a short time and as it got warm, it would begin to bind and fire more often and heat up even quicker until it quit when the power could not overcome the friction. I believe the piston may have been fitted too tightly or some metal dist got left in there. The bore and piston were both showing signs of scoring..... not something you want where precision is required.
I removed the head first. Then the main caps and connecting rod bearing cap. Then I carefully lifted the crank shaft and kept the timing gear teeth engaged so I would not have to fool with this later. I lifted it just enough to allow the piston and rod to slide out through the back.
Below are pictures of the bore.
Gil
[attachimg=1]