Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
The Regular Stuff: Chat, Buy, Sell, Off Topic, etc. => General Discussion - Model & Toy Steam Engines – Stirling Cycle – Flame Lickers – Small Antique Originals => Topic started by: Kmot on July 14, 2019, 07:06:14 pm
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Thanks fella's! I just wish I had received the engine I ordered! The one they show on their order page is made from all brass, all the photos show it made from brass. But the one I got is made from anodized aluminum. ::)
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Running very nicely now, well done !
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Running Great now! Well Done Tom!! ;D
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Sounds like you were not getting a good seal at the port then.
Great job getting it sussed and making the appropriate repair .... Well Done!!!
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Great result!
Dave
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Yes, that had me going alright! I just finished checking the timing and it is pretty much as you said.
I took the cylinder off and wiped it and the piston clean. Nothing on there really except some graphite. I did notice that the groove the reed rides in was very rough so I smoothed it a bit with a jewelers file. I am happy to report that the engine just ran great! Ran fast, and ran a long time. :D
https://youtu.be/KSTDqMwxMgc
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Tom, it might help to think of these engines as running just the opposite of a standard internal combustion engine. Instead of an "explosion" of burning gas "pushing" the piston down from TDC, these vacuum engines operate by having the rapid cooling, and thus shrinking, of heated and expanded gas, forming a partial vacuum and "pulling" the piston back up to TDC. Well, actually it is the pressure of the atmosphere "pushing" the piston back up from BDC which happens because there is a partial vacuum in the cylinder, and the pressure differential provides the energy for the movement.
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Thank you Ironhorse, it does help! :)
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As with all vacuum engines cleanliness in the cylinder is critical, they do need regular maintenance in this area but no lubrication. It may be there is an oily residue in the cylinder from the manufacturing process which needs removal, solvent on a clean rag is best.
Flame size and height is critical and they are quite sensitive to draughts. Hope this helps.
Dave
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Hmm, okay. Since I am clueless, lol, will have to do some research on the subject.
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Mine seems to work best when the port closes well before BDC and just opens fully at TDC.
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Thanks Stoker. Is the timing set by having the piston at BDC when the flapper (?) is fully up?
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Look to see that the cylinder port is in fact sealing tightly when it is closed, and also be sure the timing is correct so that you are getting maximum "vacuum" on the return stroke to TDC. Other than that, it sounds like you have been trying all the correct normal adjustments, but these things do tend to be a bit finicky!
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I recently purchased an SH-02 flame licker from an Asian online store. It was misrepresented, as the photos show a version that is all brass. The one I got appears to be anodized aluminum.
I can get it started, but it quits after only a short time. And it becomes very hard to re-start, ultimately not starting again at all.
I have tried shortening the wick, lengthening the wick, and placing the wick in 1mm increments closer/further to the port.
It's very frustrating, because I have seen some videos on YT of it running smooth, running fast, and running for several minutes non-stop.
Any ideas what I should look for to troubleshoot this thing?
Thanks!