Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
The Regular Stuff: Chat, Buy, Sell, Off Topic, etc. => General Discussion - Scale Model Gas Engines - Hit & Miss - Throttle Governed - Non-Compression – etc => Topic started by: Particleman on July 19, 2020, 04:57:22 pm
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I can’t seem to locate the video just now. Maybe someone else knows? In any event, what the guy did was install an adjustment mechanism, essentially a screw and link attached to a mount, parallel to the crankshaft, on the Governor side, linked to and providing adjustment of the rpm at which the Governor is freed so the exhaust valve can operate. It’s the same effect you get by pressing a finger against that arm when running. He did it in a horizontal engine, the adjusting screw in front of the flywheel. On a vertical it’s end up above the flywheel.
He also made a swing mount with an adjustment screw for the ignition pickup. Turning the screw swivels the mount plate, adjusting the turning point from TDC to about ten degrees advance. He claimed performance wasn’t changed a lot by that, but it did clean up the exhaust, which indicates better burn.
If I find the video I’ll post a link.
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Welcome! I'm new as well. 3 batteries are ok the electronics have been updated. Do you have a link for the video with an adjustable regulator? I haven't seen it.
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Hello folks. New member, waiting not so patiently for an M91 ordered a few days ago.
My background includes R/C gas Airplanes up to 6hp, nitro outboards, etc. So I’m not exactly new to small engines etc. but like many, I suppose, I’ve always been enamored with hit and miss engines, played with one used by a friends family to pump water and spin a milking machine in a barn without power many years ago. That engine ran at least twelve hours a day, and nonstop all winter around the clock for fifty years.
In doing my reading and viewing the many fine videos, I’ve stumbled into a bit of confusion here and there.
Several years ago, when I owned a four stroke scooter made in Taiwan, I had occasion to research gasoline. It turns out that in many parts of the world, the very same 87-89 octane we have in the US is tested using a different method and scale, and is called 95 octane. Bottom line, what they’re calling for is bog standard gasoline, If you so choose.
Like many, I’m not a fan of mixing ethanol and gas, one or the other, thanks, so I’ll stick to zippo or Coleman. Even zippo won’t break the bank. It’s not like we use gallons at a rip. I do like MMO, used it religiously in high revving engines as a bit of top oil, and have used it in high speed, high heat producing gun mechanisms with great results.
Not sure what to make of the two versus three battery advice. My ham radio experience tells me that any circuit happy on lower voltage runs cooler and lasts longer than if it’s pushed. So I guess I’m gonna try two and see how that works. A dowel and wire and tape dummy is a two minute project.
I like the one video I saw where the guy added a screw adjustable governor speed control. I’m hoping to use the engine to power some things, yet might also want to just run it low and slow for demo and enjoyment. That seems the way to achieve that. Might also rig a timing adjust screw like he did just for giggles. Thinking about adding an exhaust stack as might be used to direct exhaust up and to the side, as in an engine shed type installation.
Also would like to know what anyone thinks of adding oilers? The little flip cap brass ones like old electric motors had seem to be available, and can be modded to reduce flow with a little JB weld and a smaller drip hole.
Anyway, waiting for our friends in China to get it on its way. Tracking showed it’s been processed, so I’m guessing it’ll get a hop soon.
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Here's what I have so far[attachimg=1] I found the display case at hobby lobby. I installed softer springs. I tried not to change the timing but while working on it I did remove and reinstall the sensor. The sensor position is adjustable forward and back. I imagine the position of the sensor affects timing, What do you think? I'm linking a video do you think I have anything to gain from playing with the timeing? Cheers https://youtu.be/-6fCSlB2TYk
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Hi Partcleman,
NiMh batteries should be fine. I run mine on 6.6v volt LiFe without any issues.
Kind regards
Ade
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I have been running mine on Nmhi rechargeable aa's. Nmhi have a 1.5 voltage after a charge & a nominal voltage of 1.2 volts. Am I risking the electronics by using Nmhi ?
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Accident or design the engine is level upside down :D
There is a greater power at work, the Universe is in harmony ;D
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Accident or design the engine is level upside down :D
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pics
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We all know the boxes these are mounted to are flimsy. Especially the top piece where the engine mounts. I feel like over time it could break. My solution was to glue 1/4" plywood onto the top piece from the inside of the box. I had to route out the new piece a little for the ignition box. I replaced the mounting screws with longer ones. I Also used some dense foam as a bettery holder. Cheers
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They are great fun and it sounds like you are really enjoying it :D
All the best
Ade
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Yay my new engine arrived! I noticed in a lot of videos the base gets quite dirty. So the first thing I did was removed the engine and finished the base. Now any oil that gets on it won't soak in. Last night I remounted the engine and played with it for about 4 hours. Wow I had so much fun but.. I may have over did it. I was leaning over the engine most of the time and although I had my garage windows open I started to feel a little sick from the exhaust. Next run I will have a fan pointed at me. Also my arm was sore this morning from starting it so many times. That's all for now I'm going to play 😁
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Hi Partcleman,...my M90 arrived without evidence of any factory lube. Very clean, precision fabricated & assembled but very dry & as per instruction sheet,.. battery & pure fuel up & go for it crank up !.....Unlike the century old reliable full size h&m workhorse engines it's patterned from, strangely there's no factory provided, replica piston-cylinder or crank bearing lube holes & regardless of excessive flingoff, i suspect the engine runs functionality dryer more times than operator realized....tom.
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Good advice. On making sure it runs before any disassembly.
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Hi Partcleman,
2 drops of silicone friendly oil in the carb before first start and oil the small end and inside of the bore with the piston at TDC and that will be fine, no need to strip it. (they are lubed from the factory).
Of course it is always fun to see what is inside ;D but run it first in case it is faulty and you have to return it IMHO
Best wishes
Ade
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Do these come with pre lubricated cylinder walls?
If not I think the first thing I should do is pull the piston.
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Hi Partcleman,...the Mmo @ 20:1 or 5% fuel mix is a favorite...traditional wet ptfe lubes like 3-IN-One, Super Lube ptfe iso 100 & WD-40 Spray & Stay Gel lube on cylinder wall, piston wrist pin & bearings and "fling off" gear & sliding parts respectively work good for me. I just haven't tried the dry spray lubes yet to comment....tom.
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Additional instructions
https://www.officeofsteamforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1641.0;attach=8348
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I purchased a quart of Marvin's mystery oil, and a can of zippo lighter fluid.
Should I buy CRC or wd-40 branded ptfe dry spray lubricant?
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Bonjour,
I share my experience with Jin products I bought on my YouTube channel research word "Microcosm". I have steam and gasoline engines, Jin is always very reactive if I have a problem (uncommon hopefully).
My concernis that I have to be patient when I order...
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Have bought a half dozen engines from jin. Only 1 problem and he sent a replacement part immediately. Shipping time from china is what it is. It usually takes a week to 10 days once it is shipped
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While I'm impatiently waiting for my m94 from China, Please share your experiences & advice.