Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
The Regular Stuff: Chat, Buy, Sell, Off Topic, etc. => General Discussion - Model & Toy Steam Engines – Stirling Cycle – Flame Lickers – Small Antique Originals => Topic started by: tenniV11 on November 08, 2020, 09:47:54 am
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Thank you very kindly for taking the time to document the fabrication of these pictorially. Much appreciated.
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I understand re-using shells for this as I have a ton of brass, but .44’s are very hard to find here and it doesn’t take me long to shoot up what I have loaded! :D
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An excellent tutorial and a wonderful technique for making the burner parts.
Thanks!
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Cartridge Brass has the perfect wall thickness, lenght and it's for free
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people trow it into the waste bin at the shooting range.
All this and recycling, too!
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Cartridge Brass has the perfect wall thickness, lenght and it's for free
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people trow it into the waste bin at the shooting range.
For my Burners I use .44 Mag and .454 Casull Revolver cases.
I make also nice steam whistle from Rifle Cartridge.
Reloading is okay for expensive or rare calibers like a Vetterli 10,4 mm
which was a Swiss military rifle in 1869! That's fun too - but thats another Story.
Arnold
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Wonderful build series for a really nice looking burner, but I wonder why you don't just use K&S brass tubing and save the cartridge brass for reloading?
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I, too, thank you. You have admirably clarified the whole process, to the point where even I should be able to make a burner like that.
I did make a burner from a cartridge casing once, but it was a simple one, made from a .22 shell for my Jenny Wren. This looks much better for larger things.
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Thank you for the detailed pictures! You could sell quite a few of those, but unfortunately not many would be willing to pay for the labor you have into them...
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Have some photos of the process - annealing first to color red (perfect term - thanks!)
then reshape with low rpm using RCBS case lube on the stamp
then turn from Solid Brass the crown - 18 mm to 13,25 - and let the Ball end mill make the finish
after cut off turn the inner side to 16,5 mm dia 2 mm depth and solder to the tube
thats it - just make the 9 holes 1 mm with 40 degree on a Dividing device
Yes you will need a workshop....
Have a nice day
[attachimg=1][attach=2][attach=3][attach=4][attach=5][attach=6][attach=7][attach=8][attach=9][attach=10][attach=11][attach=12]
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Great job, looks fantastic :)
...But what does "I glow them out" mean?
Annealing 8)
Thanks, Jan. New term for me.
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Thank you very much for posting this up. Would very much like some more detailed photos of how you formed the mushroom top.
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Very nice work! 8)
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Great job, looks fantastic :)
...But what does "I glow them out" mean?
Annealing 8)
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will make some detailed photos tomorrow...

Brass is to hard and brittle to reshape - so you have
to glow it to make it soft.
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I like peaceful.
But what does "I glow them out" mean?
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Still working on my Märklin 4137/7 - today I had to rebuild the Burner for Denatured alcohol.
For my opinion these old engines work better with this kind of heat. The fill will be okay for
a quarter of hour and makes sure there is not too little water in the Boiler. I like the clean
Gas burner for modern Stuarts etc. having thick Copper Wall.
The Challenge of building a Burner is to make the crowns of brass. I always use old .44
or .454 rounds. First I glow them out and form a cone. Then I solder the top with silver solder
to it. Then I make 9 holes of 1 mm. All other is made from sheet metal and sodered.
It works fantastic...[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3][attachimg=4][attachimg=5]