Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
Builds, Repairs, Show Your Machines! => Technical Tips, Builds, and Help => Topic started by: Woe is me on February 03, 2021, 07:00:40 pm
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That's a good looking flame you have there. If mine was that good and blue, I'd of never started this post.
You seen my video. If I adjust the flame to that height yours is producing, the top half would be yellow
and the bottom of the boiler would be covered in soot. I'm not using some odd brand of fuel, it's Ronson,
MADE IN USA.
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My #5 Jet
(https://i.imgur.com/VxP8b5s.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RBiXUh5.jpg)
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Hey Tony, when I loosen the set screw and slide the tube and jet out, I can open the valve and feel and
smell the gas. If it wasn't flammable, I bet it could just about blow out my lighter. I don't think it's
plugged up but I'll do as you say. I always bow to experience.
Thanks everyone, I'll let you know when it happens.
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Hi Tommy,
As it is a commercially made burner most of them must work reasonably well
A couple of suggestions: you might have a partially blocked jet which sometimes give odd burning patterns. I clean them using a syringe connected to the jet with a silicon tube and blow it through the jet taking. I then tube off to pull the syringe piston back so it doesn't suck back. A couple of times blowing usually does it.
As I expect you know there doesn't need to be air holes in the gas tube but if there are they need to be the correct size. Using these holes is just a convenient way of holding the jet. When I design a new gas burner I use no holes just the gas tube. I hold the burner in a vice and hand hold the jet pointing it at the hole in the gas tube someone else lights the burner while I position the jet and control the gas. By moving the jet back and fore the effect of different gas/air mixes can be observed. It should be possible to do the same with your burner by putting some tape over the air holes. If I don't get good combustion I try a different jet and if that doesn't work a different size gas tube.
Doing the above test should show if the burner is capable of working; usually a problem has nothing to do with the ceramic element.
Take care Tony.
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Hey Jim, is the orifice in the #8 larger than the one in the #5.
From somewhere else -
"BIX jets and are designed primary for use with canister gas eg; Butane, ISO Butane and Butane / Propane mix and have a 1 BA thread, the number indicates the jet hole size, the following is the sizing I was given from the manufacturer about 10 years ago; #5 = 0.008", #8 = 010", #12 = 0.012" and #16 = 0.0135".
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Hey Jim, is the orifice in the #8 larger than the one in the #5.
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Tommy my BIX burner in the background has a #5 gas jet, but the burner is two and half times longer.
[attachimg=1]
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Mine's a #5 I know because I bought 2xtanks, 2xlines, and 2xjets, both were #5. They're for
converting two Hornby Rockets to a better gas delivery system. The Bix burner came latter.
I was told it would work fine. Well guess what.
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I have my jet pushed in further than what you showed in the video Tommy.
My jet is a #8
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=3]
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I added a video to the opening post, make sure you watch it before responding please.
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Purchased it new a year ago.
Perhaps you could get in touch with your supplier and ask for advice on this despite how long ago you bought it.
In a similar vein, I bought a Bix burner which I left in its bag for over a year before attempting to use it. When I took it out of the bag, the end fell off, due to poor siver-soldering, I guess. I sent a picture of the faulty burner and asked the supplier if he could give me advice on trying to fix it, and he replied that, despite the elapsed time, it was clear that it had never been lit, so he sent me another one at no charge.
You never know....
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The position of the ceramic piece seems ok.
Here is a comparison with mine. It looks pretty similar to me.
Are you sure of the quality of the gas you are using ? I am using a Butane/Propane mix.
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Have you checked that the ceramic part is not completely pressed down ?
Could you add some pictures of it ?
I had one that had that problem (pressed completely down) and I saw it because I compared it with a functional one.
I then managed to enter toothpick in the holes and pull it up.
I think it's OK, hasn't changed since I got it. It looks like this.
[attach=1][attach=2][attach=3]
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Have you checked that the ceramic part is not completely pressed down ?
Could you add some pictures of it ?
I had one that had that problem (pressed completely down) and I saw it because I compared it with a functional one.
I then managed to enter toothpick in the holes and pull it up.
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G'day Tommy, have you tried adjusting it mate by loosening the set screw in the section that the jet is screwed in (and in a darkish room) pulled the burner in an out till you get those little dancing blue devil flames and then tighten up the set screw?
Yes Jim, I tried adjusting the jet assembly in the tube. I had in all the way and slowly worked it out
looking for those devils. The flame never changed. Wrong jet? It's a #5.
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G'day Tommy, have you tried adjusting it mate by loosening the set screw in the section that the jet is screwed in (and in a darkish room) pulled the burner in an out till you get those little dancing blue devil flames and then tighten up the set screw?
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Purchased it new a year ago. Have the small tank setup for the Wilesco TE's, shortest tube, #5 jet, and small
ceramic burner. Have been trying to use it for stationary engines. Can't get the little blue cones for a flame.
Always a yellow flame like it was on a wick. Have been on line, tried what was posted from a company that sells
them, nothing. The valve adjuster handle feels like it has a rubber "O" ring, kind of mushy, and wants to spring
back. Have tried adjusting the jet assembly in the tube, it doesn't matter. Even tried different butane.
Any suggestions short of the hammer would be appreciated.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PhSAIJLR2PU