Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
Builds, Repairs, Show Your Machines! => Technical Tips, Builds, and Help => Topic started by: Jim on March 30, 2019, 06:50:33 pm
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very interesting pictorial Jim & another stout & quality build , one to last for ages...well done Sir !
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Golly no Ron :)
I just want to make sure that no one thinks I'm anything than what I am, a self taught (and always learning) backyard hobbiest :)
Maybe true, but a very talented one
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Jim hope you didn`t take my comment seriously you are by far miles ahead of many in this forum both in content and attitude
Best regards
RON
Golly no Ron :)
I just want to make sure that no one thinks I'm anything than what I am, a self taught (and always learning) backyard hobbiest :)
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Jim hope you didn`t take my comment seriously you are by far miles ahead of many in this forum both in content and attitude
Best regards
RON
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Really great what you beginners can do!!!!!!
Very nice
RON
Ron the first time I ever touched a lathe and mill in my entire life was when they came off the back of the delivery truck :)
Its been a fun learning curve and every time I use them I learn.
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Why did you not use set screws on pulleys? You did a great job
showing all the details that went into making the Vertical Transmission.
I enjoyed every minute of this build.
Carl I've used 3mm ones on all my other builds, but they can be a PITA. I've had slotted ones break a half a slot off. Allen key ones get rounded and they are a headache then to remove.
I've bought some recently from an automotive shop and they are supposedly better quality. I'll give them a try and if they are, it will be easy to drill and tap and use them in these two builds.
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Really great what you beginners can do!!!!!!
Very nice
RON
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Why did you not use set screws on pulleys? You did a great job
showing all the details that went into making the Vertical Transmission.
I enjoyed every minute of this build.
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Long thread, very much appreciate all the views and comments.
These are super handy to run steam accessories at more realistic (slower) speeds.
Thanks again all.
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And the horizontal transmission next to the upright transmission -
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Now to put all the bits and pieces together -
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Last of the pulleys -
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With the outside pulley I used both ali and brass to make it so as to use up lots of accumulated nubs of metal that I have accumulated since lathe ownership. I think the two metal looks good together and I have to make two more yet. I was happy when I pushed the roller bearings in and then the axle in and it all ran true.
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Drill and tapped the wood plinth... I like that idea.
A lot of time on the parting tool in this project.
Nice work Jim.
Thanks Scott, appreciated mate.
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Drill and tapped the wood plinth... I like that idea.
A lot of time on the parting tool in this project.
Nice work Jim.
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A wonderful thread Jim.
I learned a lot and have been through it twice.
Thank you!
Thanks Charlie, I'm just a backyard novice.
Geoff (Ozsteamdemon) was my go to friend for advice and guidance .... I miss him so much.
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Starting to get there -
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Starting the second cone pulley -
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Turning one of the flywheels -
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A wonderful thread Jim.
I learned a lot and have been through it twice.
Thank you!
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Measuring the bolt head for length before parting off. I always use the first item made as the template for others. Probably an unorthodox method and trained engineers maybe raising their eyebrows, but it works for me and I suppose being untrained gives me freedom to just do what works for me -
That's exactly the right way to do it Jim to avoid cumulative error creeping in - your thinking processes are dead on the mark!
Thanks Larry :)
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Measuring the bolt head for length before parting off. I always use the first item made as the template for others. Probably an unorthodox method and trained engineers maybe raising their eyebrows, but it works for me and I suppose being untrained gives me freedom to just do what works for me -
That's exactly the right way to do it Jim to avoid cumulative error creeping in - your thinking processes are dead on the mark!
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Jim many thanks for the video pics speak a thousand words might prove useful for a mini car until the correct reduction ratio can be found
You're very welcome Ron and thank you.
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Jim many thanks for the video pics speak a thousand words might prove useful for a mini car until the correct reduction ratio can be found
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Bit of Autosol cream on some rag for a polish -
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Mirror finish, you can see it picking up and reflecting -
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One cone pulley down, and one more cone pulley to go -
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Turned it around in the chuck to clean up the back -
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Decorative groove -
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All polished up now and starting to part off -
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Parted off -
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Took some time, but I'm happy how that's turned out -
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Centre drilling -
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Using a revolving centre for making the belting grooves on the pulleys -
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Checking the depth for the green belting -
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More grooving -
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Finished the grooving process -
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Drilling through for the axle shaft -
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Will the tapped holes in the wood hold it or did you use t-nuts on the under side?
Hi Carl, no nuts just the bolts nipped down onto the hardwood. They torque up very well in this wood as its extremely dense stuff.
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Drilled and tapped the holes for the brass bolts in the hardwood -
Will the tapped holes in the wood hold it or did you use t-nuts on the under side?
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50mm Aluminium bar in chuck (its about 51.5mm) -
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Blued, measured and marked -
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Starting on the different sizes -
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Turned some brass washers up for under the bolts -
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Bolted down to the wooden plinth -
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Stainless steel axles cut -
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Drilled and tapped the holes for the brass bolts in the hardwood -
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Steel out of the oven now and paint fully cured and having a test fit on the wooden plinth -
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Measuring the bolt head for length before parting off. I always use the first item made as the template for others. Probably an unorthodox method and trained engineers maybe raising their eyebrows, but it works for me and I suppose being untrained gives me freedom to just do what works for me -
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4x bolts made -
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Using a small hand file to bevel the top of the bolt -
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Mandrel removed from the chuck -
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Buffing on a coarse mop (still held in the mandrel) -
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Buff on the loose calico mop -
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1x bolt made, 3x to go!
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Bolt put into a tapped offcut mandrel -
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Remove the nub -
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Thread done -
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Parting off -
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Nice build thread here Jim!
Also nice handles for your mill .... but I do find gripping aluminum blackens my hands to some extent.
Thanks Daniel, I've never found that with ali I wonder if it has something to do with grades of ali or just the end uses skin pH?
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I really like following this thread, learning a lot - just wish I could work in metal. I was surprised to see you using Cold Galvanizing as an undercoat as I wouldn't have thought it would work out okay with normal paint (no knowledge just seat of the pants thinking) but apparently it does - the only place I've ever used it is on the valley flashing on my house roof.
Larry I wish I could craft wood like you do. The cold gal works very well on ferrous metals.
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Jim this is me just catching up and i`m sure i will gain a lot from your tips looking fwd to your build.
But can i be the idiot and ask what is a Vertical Transmission
Best regards
RON
Ron, my nomenclature could be over enthusiastic. I'm only a backyard hobbiest :)
Its a vertical one like the horizontal one shown in the video below. Very nice for adjusting speeds to make accessories look and run more realistic.
https://youtu.be/ec4daed26Jc
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Nice build thread here Jim!
Also nice handles for your mill .... but I do find gripping aluminum blackens my hands to some extent.
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I really like following this thread, learning a lot - just wish I could work in metal. I was surprised to see you using Cold Galvanizing as an undercoat as I wouldn't have thought it would work out okay with normal paint (no knowledge just seat of the pants thinking) but apparently it does - the only place I've ever used it is on the valley flashing on my house roof.
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Jim this is me just catching up and i`m sure i will gain a lot from your tips looking fwd to your build.
But can i be the idiot and ask what is a Vertical Transmission
Best regards
RON
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Starting on the first brass bolt that will hold the steel base plate onto the wooden plinth -
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Turn to the length I want the bolt to be -
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Using a small hand file on the end making a chamfer to facilitate the button die going on easily at the start -
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I have made button die stock holders, but have found that it easier and quicker for me to just use a normal hand die holder and keep it place using the drill chuck in the tailstock. Nice and quick and still accurate -
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Measuring from the back so that all the bolts have the same amount of thread -
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Three (3) coats of marine spar varnish sprayed on -
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Blowing and dusting to get rid of every speck of sanding dust -
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Cutting the plinth of a plank of tropical hardwood -
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Put a holding piece of wood underneath to hold it in a vice to make routing the four edges easier and in one go -
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Sanding the edges on the linisher -
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Finish hand sanding -
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Brazed !!!!!
First undercoat of zinc based cold gal paint -
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First of three (3) coats of red paint -
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The NOT so fun part (at least for me) getting everything just right and making sure they are perfect for the axle and roller bearings before being able to get enough heat into this much steel on the hearth to do the brazing -
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Removing the mill scale with 8" wire brush on bench grinder from the steel plate where the uprights will sit -
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Removing the mill scale from the two steel uprights -
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All drilled -
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This is a beefy bit o transmission. Enjoyable build, thanks for posting these.
And those handles are spiffy. Nice.
Thanks Benny I'll add some more pics when I get some time. I was quite happy with those handles :) :) :)
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This is a beefy bit o transmission. Enjoyable build, thanks for posting these.
And those handles are spiffy. Nice.
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Oh and do you like the three aluminium handles that I made for the mill? Much better than plastic :)
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Marking out the steel base plate for the brass bolts (yet to be made) that will hold it to a wooden plinth -
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Centre punching -
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Drilling 5mm holes in the four corners -
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Standing the uprights up to have look to see if all is right so far -
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Cutting the steel bottom plate down a touch -
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Great tools these deburrers -
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One of the 13mm bearings -
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Starting to drill the first hole -
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Both holes drilled -
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Still have both pieces of steel clamped together for using the centre drill on the punch marks -
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Starting the first centre drill -
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Grandfather's automatic center Great to watch your build - I'm sure it'll be instructive. And your grandfather's automatic center punch is a great connection within your family's heritage.
Thanks Larry
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This is great. Show us how you make some of that neat stuff.
Thanks Tim
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Grandfather's automatic center Great to watch your build - I'm sure it'll be instructive. And your grandfather's automatic center punch is a great connection within your family's heritage.
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This is great. Show us how you make some of that neat stuff.
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Marking the second position -
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The automatic centre punch -
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The mark that it makes -
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Centre punching the holes using my grandfathers automatic centrepunch. He was born in 1898, I love still be able to use his tools -
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Setting out where I want the axles to go using some scrap 50mm aluminium -
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Using the linisher on the ends (still have the clamped together) -
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I built this vertical transmission some time ago. I photographed as much of the build process as I could. I'll slowly add them to this thread.
Clamped two pieces of 50mm lengths of steel together and cut them to size and then rounded the ends off on the bandsaw -
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