Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
Builds, Repairs, Show Your Machines! => Restorations => Topic started by: St Paul Steam on March 29, 2023, 07:49:22 pm
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You are the Steam (Punk) Magician Bruce.
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Looks good and runs nice too.
SD. E. jones
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Your right Paula, those non-reversers run slowly the best.
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Excellent work, Bruce! I laughed at how it "took a piss" when you first started it. :D You really got it running and looking nice!
Amazing how smoothly it runs at high speed. Jensen engines have to be some of the best designed/built engines of their class. Yours reminds me that I have an older 25 (purchased from another forum member) that needs some attention. It's kind of grungy, the heater is MIA, and the moving parts are showing some wear, but it's otherwise solid.
The other nice thing these engines are good at is running slowly:
https://youtu.be/IHnFZGpQRXc
Paula
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Bruce, you did your magic once again and produced a fine example... I agree with Stoker...a cast iron 25 is about the best representative of the Jensen name out there and easy to find.
Well done,
Rog
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It sure looks pretty now Bruce.
Great job. ;)
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Yep, that's how I fix mine too!
I use a product called Zap-A-Gap that seems to wick well into tight places and claims to even work well on oily surfaces.
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Hey Bruce, those cast-iron Jensen #25s are about the most iconic, and indestructible, of the entire Jensen line. Wouldn't be without one, or two, or three, or more!
Really nice work you did cleaning that one up!
Didn't hear the video all that well, so could you describe what you did to fix the cylinder side-wall split?
I didnt describe how I fixed it, but I will now, it's called Cyanoacrylate better known as "crazy glue" red Loctite will also work I'm told, I use the "Temple of steam" instructions, run a boiler full of water steamed through the engine without any oiling on the cylinder anywhere to purge the crack, I then (while hot) carefully apply the crazy glue to the crack, use a piece of silicone tube with one end in my mouth and force the glue into the crack while having the steam valve already closed and retracting the piston to the extended position (lest you glue it in place), all this will encourage the glue into the crack fully. Let dry for a day, I've never had to apply more than twice. A common occurrence is that the crack extends into the rear of the cylinder and occasionally you have to hit that area twice, this was as large a crack as I have seen & only took one application. I currently have 5 of these plants.
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Hey Bruce, those cast-iron Jensen #25s are about the most iconic, and indestructible, of the entire Jensen line. Wouldn't be without one, or two, or three, or more!
Really nice work you did cleaning that one up!
Didn't hear the video all that well, so could you describe what you did to fix the cylinder side-wall split?
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Hi folks
this is a Jensen #25 1956-60 heavy flywheel steam engine that I received in quite dismal condition, all I did was to oil a few moving parts & add water then plug in....& wait...
the before video
https://youtu.be/P_4bi0l4PX0
the Redux...
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/z440/bruceang1/20230327_151623.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/z440/bruceang1/20230327_151623.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
https://youtu.be/8-4Sk_LcbUw