Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
Builds, Repairs, Show Your Machines! => Machine Tools, Machining, and Toolmaking => Topic started by: St Paul Steam on April 01, 2024, 09:08:06 pm
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Very Interesting!
Some, but not all of what he presented, was new to me and I'm glad to have seen it. Now I only need to remember it when I need it!?!?
He was a little hard to understand in a couple of key spots, so darn, guess I'll just have to watch it again!
Zee wert listening cloze enuff. :D
My earbones done did the best they could.
Perhaps it was my brain that was lagging behind?!?!
I should add that I'm really not going to mind watching it again and trying to "listen clozer enuff" to pick up what I might have missed in the first go around!
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Very Interesting!
Some, but not all of what he presented, was new to me and I'm glad to have seen it. Now I only need to remember it when I need it!?!?
He was a little hard to understand in a couple of key spots, so darn, guess I'll just have to watch it again!
Zee wert listening cloze enuff. :D
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Very Interesting!
Some, but not all of what he presented, was new to me and I'm glad to have seen it. Now I only need to remember it when I need it!?!?
He was a little hard to understand in a couple of key spots, so darn, guess I'll just have to watch it again!
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I started watching this & couldn't stop, lots of useful hacks & tricks there.
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Copied and shared from somewhere else, worth checkin' out -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuZjjActWmQ&t=365s
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[attachimg=1]
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Howdy Bruce
I don't know quite how much you are short of closure, but shim stock of various thickness could come to the rescue!?!?
I already ordered another chuck, that from the photo's... appears to close near 100%
new chuck is in & I'm very pleased with it. it works exactly as I had hoped.
https://youtu.be/psjHuWYlGQo
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Howdy Bruce
I don't know quite how much you are short of closure, but shim stock of various thickness could come to the rescue!?!?
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9" South Bend lathe spider chuck
Hi folks.
I made this lathe spider chuck for my 9" South bend lathe. I think the idea is good but the chuck seems a bit stiff & doesn't quite clamp small enough for my needs. I may send it back & see if I can get a better working chuck & tighter closing on the chuck teeth.
https://youtu.be/EoirLZooHXo
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Whens that date from around Nick? Super cool!
I believe 1930’s/40’s, most complete example I’ve seen for sale
Again...super cool!
I’m scared to see what they’ll charge me for shipping… cast base and I think it’s 29-3/4” long…
How far is it coming from Nick?
Indiana 😂
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Whens that date from around Nick? Super cool!
I believe 1930’s/40’s, most complete example I’ve seen for sale
Again...super cool!
I’m scared to see what they’ll charge me for shipping… cast base and I think it’s 29-3/4” long…
How far is it coming from Nick?
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Whens that date from around Nick? Super cool!
I believe 1930’s/40’s, most complete example I’ve seen for sale
Again...super cool!
I’m scared to see what they’ll charge me for shipping… cast base and I think it’s 29-3/4” long…
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Whens that date from around Nick? Super cool!
I believe 1930’s/40’s, most complete example I’ve seen for sale
Again...super cool!
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Whens that date from around Nick? Super cool!
I believe 1930’s/40’s, most complete example I’ve seen for sale
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I suppose I can join in because I just bought this cool toy for the kids to play with :D
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Nice Nick, get'um started young I always say.
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Hi folks
I had the need for a spider for the rear of my PM1228 lathe. I used a 4" wood lathe chuck, bored out the thread to 1 5/16" ID, threaded the snout & threaded the lathe bore to accept this unit. I had to make an adapter to move the spider chuck out from the gear door.
https://youtu.be/XNJe00AiIvc?si=HYKZBkbcYR556RUb
Another stellar addition to your fine PM lathe there Bruce.
You'll have that puppy buffed out to perfection before you are done, no doubt about it!!!
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That is a pretty scary toy for a young child ..... just the sort of thing I would have loved to have had back in the day!
Very educational .... every time you bleed you learn something new!!! ;c)
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Whens that date from around Nick? Super cool!
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I suppose I can join in because I just bought this cool toy for the kids to play with :D
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Hi folks
I had the need for a spider for the rear of my PM1228 lathe. I used a 4" wood lathe chuck, bored out the thread to 1 5/16" ID, threaded the snout & threaded the lathe bore to accept this unit. I had to make an adapter to move the spider chuck out from the gear door.
https://youtu.be/XNJe00AiIvc
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So enjoyable just knowing how much your enjoying retirement Bruce.
When I'm in my workshop, steam room etc etc I truly am "The proverbial pig in poo". (That's Aussie for extremely happy, just in case that doesn't translate too well :) ).
Here Stateside, the usual phrasing is "Happy as a Pig in Mud", but we get your meaning just fine and I think many of us share that same sentiment!
Love that little bandsaw Bruce, I suspect that it will prove very useful for you!!!
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So enjoyable just knowing how much your enjoying retirement Bruce.
When I'm in my workshop, steam room etc etc I truly am "The proverbial pig in poo". (That's Aussie for extremely happy, just in case that doesn't translate too well :) ).
thanks Jim, my shop is my retreat & "happy place" as you said, I turn the radio on & "tinker" (as my wife calls) for hours. :D
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So enjoyable just knowing how much your enjoying retirement Bruce.
When I'm in my workshop, steam room etc etc I truly am "The proverbial pig in poo". (That's Aussie for extremely happy, just in case that doesn't translate too well :) ).
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I got this little 9" Grizzly GO803Z bandsaw at a steam show auction a week ago. I bought it really cheap as it didnt include the table. So, I made a table & put a couple of supports on the back side, they are light weight but strong. it runs surprisingly well & I'm very pleased with it. I like the quick release blade tensioner & the steel access doors, the latches work quite well
https://youtu.be/JoR8iOZO6UY
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Are you cleaning your machinery down with compressed air Bruce? I watch a lot of machining videos on YT and everyone's mills & lathes always look so pristine......not mine....mine look like they have been rode hard and put away wet :(
My copper swarf catcher I couldn't be without, does keep 99% of swarf off the lathe bed and I can just sweep it off to the back swarf catcher and then into an oil drip tray (from an auto parts shop) for removal.
" Are you cleaning your machinery down with compressed air Bruce?" never Jim, (per Tubal Cains instructions) although my Kurt vise is a pita to get into the nooks & cranny's. I do clean it after each use (mostly) now that I'm retired. I saw your swarf catcher & may have to fabricate one of those, i like the concept.
I've worked in plenty of machine shops where compressed air was in constant use for clearing chips. However, these were all big open floorplans that allowed for easy sweeping later. My little crowded storage-room/shop has no place for chips to sail off to, so I do all my cleaning with a brush and a vacuum. Works well for me in my situation.
As an aside, the same is true with fly-cutters. As nice as they can be to use, there is just no place for those chips to fly too!
Nice job on the spindle readout Bruce!!!
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PM-953TS digital quill DRO (for $30.50) cheap knee mill DRO, "quick detach"
Hi folks
I have watched many videos about installing a digital Quill DRO on my knee mill & most required a bracket & spacer...etc. I thought this can't be all that difficult (& expensive) so I came up with what you see above. this is the vernier that I went with. I had some scrap brass & a little time.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832648164444.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.5c9b180252Wj50
https://youtu.be/DCvZD8iSIBo
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Are you cleaning your machinery down with compressed air Bruce? I watch a lot of machining videos on YT and everyone's mills & lathes always look so pristine......not mine....mine look like they have been rode hard and put away wet :(
My copper swarf catcher I couldn't be without, does keep 99% of swarf off the lathe bed and I can just sweep it off to the back swarf catcher and then into an oil drip tray (from an auto parts shop) for removal.
" Are you cleaning your machinery down with compressed air Bruce?" never Jim, (per Tubal Cains instructions) although my Kurt vise is a pita to get into the nooks & cranny's. I do clean it after each use (mostly) now that I'm retired. I saw your swarf catcher & may have to fabricate one of those, i like the concept.
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Are you cleaning your machinery down with compressed air Bruce? I watch a lot of machining videos on YT and everyone's mills & lathes always look so pristine......not mine....mine look like they have been rode hard and put away wet :(
My copper swarf catcher I couldn't be without, does keep 99% of swarf off the lathe bed and I can just sweep it off to the back swarf catcher and then into an oil drip tray (from an auto parts shop) for removal.
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Ok, I I'm pretty sure I follow but what about small offcuts that are longer than being flush Bruce. That's where the ball bearing race shines (for me at least).
I try really hard to use up all my brass and ali offcuts.
I try really hard to use up all the little bits myself 😉 often I will chuck up the little off-cuts in the tail stock chuck, ease it into the head stock chuck & align the protrusion that way.
Hmm....clever for sure! Will try that Bruce.
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Ok, I I'm pretty sure I follow but what about small offcuts that are longer than being flush Bruce. That's where the ball bearing race shines (for me at least).
I try really hard to use up all my brass and ali offcuts.
I try really hard to use up all the little bits myself 😉 often I will chuck up the little off-cuts in the tail stock chuck, ease it into the head stock chuck & align the protrusion that way.
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Ok, I I'm pretty sure I follow but what about small offcuts that are longer than being flush Bruce. That's where the ball bearing race shines (for me at least).
I try really hard to use up all my brass and ali offcuts.
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Honestly, to true a small part, I have a set of washers in various sizes that I use to get them flush with the jaws. I've been looking up the tac2 adhesive lubricant you talked about in your video.
Sounds interesting Bruce, can you enlarge on how you go about that? I'd like to try that out.
Its really simple Jim, I just use a flat washer that's a bit larger than the part, where the part can be flush with the jaws, I can make a video, buts its really simple & easy.😊
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Honestly, to true a small part, I have a set of washers in various sizes that I use to get them flush with the jaws. I've been looking up the tac2 adhesive lubricant you talked about in your video.
Sounds interesting Bruce, can you enlarge on how you go about that? I'd like to try that out.
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Honestly, to true a small part, I have a set of washers in various sizes that I use to get them flush with the jaws. I've been looking up the tac2 adhesive lubricant you talked about in your video.
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This is also something I made up and couldn't be without -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfoSqPa0zgQ&t=134s
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Bruce you've probably already made and use one of these tailstock die holders for your old lathe, its something that made ages ago and I use all the time as well -
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Looks nice Jim, I had to look up a Gestetner lathe, as I'd not encountered them before, English made ey.
Ah sorry....that label is off an old copier from around the 1920s that I found at the rubbish tip and took that makers plate off and stuck it on my lathe for fun.
My lathe is a Chinese Sieg C6.
Hope you guys had a wonderful Christmas Day.
No worries, I got a map of the United States on my Chinese lathe...lol.
I was taking in all the sights in your pictures, you have a lot of measuring equipment in the photo.
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Looks nice Jim, I had to look up a Gestetner lathe, as I'd not encountered them before, English made ey.
Ah sorry....that label is off an old copier from around the 1920s that I found at the rubbish tip and took that makers plate off and stuck it on my lathe for fun.
My lathe is a Chinese Sieg C6.
Hope you guys had a wonderful Christmas Day.
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Looks nice Jim, I had to look up a Gestetner lathe, as I'd not encountered them before, English made ey.
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Bruce as handy as a shirt pocket and used just as much....I put mine on many years ago and couldn't be without it.
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PM-1228 lathe, tailstock dro vernier
Hello folks
I decided I needed a tailstock dro vernier for my PM-1228 lathe. It is nearly an exact copy of Joseph Higgins (go check out his channel), with the exception being the tailstock quill has the ability to float a bit in relationship with the dro vernier shaft.
the Vernier I bought off of Ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133804972533
https://youtu.be/Egnxes0VrVI
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Wished you Happy Birthday on FB, but here's another HAPPY BIRTHDAY BRUCE!!!!
What a great present from Ange, that's one sweet looking collet chuck!
I saw it Jim, thanks.i pretty much pick out my own presents anymore, she just hits the "buy" button.
I'm rather slow at "Dialing In" my-own-self, so we definitely have that in common!
Oh yes, and please do accept my very best wishes for a Happy Birthday ... and many happy returns!!
While I may not be lucky enough to have a Lady that buys for me the things I like and want, I am entirely fortunate to have one that totally tolerates all that I do buy for myself .... Bless her Warm and Beautiful Heart!!!
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Wished you Happy Birthday on FB, but here's another HAPPY BIRTHDAY BRUCE!!!!
What a great present from Ange, that's one sweet looking collet chuck!
I saw it Jim, thanks.i pretty much pick out my own presents anymore, she just hits the "buy" button.
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Wonderful set-up Bruce. I had once considered going with a 5C collet set but realized early on that my little Atlas 618 has nowhere near the rigidity needed to make any real use of such a powerful clamping system. Also, very unlikely that I'd ever be trying to turn anything that required that much strength and precision!
I've settled on a set of ER 25 collets for my lathe and mill, and even "built" the collet chuck for my lathe, as the collet set came with an R8 shank that fits my little mill's spindle, though I almost never us the ER 25s on the mill anyway as the R8s take care of nearly all that business for me just fine. On my lathe, anything bigger than what the ER 25s will hold is simply going into three and four jaw chuck territory anyway.
For the size and capabilities of your machines, I have no doubt that you've made the correct choice here, and you have certainly dialed that chuck in, to the limits of precision of your indicator. I can't hardly see that needle twitch in the slightest, and it definitely isn't moving even a tiny fraction of a tenth!
Thanks Daniel
I'm never very fast @ dialing anything in, probably takes me more effort than most people, but I'm persistent.😉
It was probably out 12k when i started.
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Wonderful set-up Bruce. I had once considered going with a 5C collet set but realized early on that my little Atlas 618 has nowhere near the rigidity needed to make any real use of such a powerful clamping system. Also, very unlikely that I'd ever be trying to turn anything that required that much strength and precision!
I've settled on a set of ER 25 collets for my lathe and mill, and even "built" the collet chuck for my lathe, as the collet set came with an R8 shank that fits my little mill's spindle, though I almost never us the ER 25s on the mill anyway as the R8s take care of nearly all that business for me just fine. On my lathe, anything bigger than what the ER 25s will hold is simply going into three and four jaw chuck territory anyway.
For the size and capabilities of your machines, I have no doubt that you've made the correct choice here, and you have certainly dialed that chuck in, to the limits of precision of your indicator. I can't hardly see that needle twitch in the slightest, and it definitely isn't moving even a tiny fraction of a tenth!
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Also....its been some years since we had a full 'St Paul' walkthrough shop tour!!!!
I'll have to work on that 😉
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Also....its been some years since we had a full 'St Paul' walkthrough shop tour!!!!
:) :)
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Wished you Happy Birthday on FB, but here's another HAPPY BIRTHDAY BRUCE!!!!
What a great present from Ange, that's one sweet looking collet chuck!
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Precision Matthews D1-4 chuck "Speed chuck adapter"
hi folks.
after receiving this new Precision Matthews D1-4 chuck, I quickly realized that to screw the collet in was especially arduous, I had a harbor freight pack of 3 drill/shank attachments that worked real well chucked up in my drill (on screw drive setting) I had to mill a bit off of 3 sides (didnt bother with the side that had the detent ball) it worked a charm.
https://youtu.be/SDzlyFuF-B0
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Precision Matthews D1-4 ,5 C collet chuck, dialed in
Dialing in my new PM 5-C collet chuck, this one is adjustable. It always seems to take me longer than the average person to get these chucks TIR adjusted properly, but with enough time & and determination, I can get there. I watched a YouTube video to help figure it out.
https://youtu.be/x_rSQTXeCLo
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This is my unboxing of my Precision Matthews D1-4 , 5C Collet Chuck. My wife got it for my birthday. It is adjustable, so we'll see how close it can be dialed in. (Next video)
https://youtu.be/C3IEY7DhaVg
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Very nice mill-mod, Bruce!
You can always move the wheel from a convenient angle.
Gil
that is the goal Gil, & if it doesn't suit me as I hope, I can always put it back the way it was.
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That's a helluva' mill you got there Bruce!
Thanks Jim, I was a little intimidated by it at 1st (compared to my little Teig V-Mill) but I'm quickly growing to love this Mill & hope it serves me well.
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Very nice mill-mod, Bruce!
You can always move the wheel from a convenient angle.
Gil
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That's a helluva' mill you got there Bruce!
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PM-935TS/TV Milling Machine "Handwheel" replacement
Hi folks
after watching James (Clough42) video where he put a handwheel on his V-mill I knew I wanted one as well. it took a bit of lathe work to bring a large piece of aluminum down to the results you see in the video. the hub-to-hub bolts are M6-1.0 & the main bolt (holding the handwheel on) is 5/6"x18 tpi w/a 1/8" thick washer. the handwheel is 12 3/4" across & has 5 evenly spaced spokes. the handwheel is a bit out of true I noticed when using rapid return from all the way down but that's probably to be expected from a ring ,5 spokes & a hub setup & doesn't bother me.
https://youtu.be/y3VXJ3nsazk
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That's a whole heck of a lot more rotary table than I've got Bruce, but I get by with the occasional extension arm to add to my little 4" table.
I have a 4" as well, amazing how 2" increments increase the size so dramatically. I think I'm glad I didnt buy the 10"er like I originally wanted.
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I've got the smaller size Vevor Bruce......unbelievably priced well aren't they.
Yes, that's why I purchased it. I was holding out to purchase a quality one from Facebook marketplace & had one or two come up for sale close by (& @ twice the price) which I would have paid, but the machinery dealers always beat me to them. I wish the locking clamps were centered better (that bugs me) & I wish the needle gauge was closer to the front (handle) as I've seen in other videos, apparently, they put them wherever I suppose.
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That's a whole heck of a lot more rotary table than I've got Bruce, but I get by with the occasional extension arm to add to my little 4" table.
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I've got the smaller size Vevor Bruce......unbelievably priced well aren't they.
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New VEVOR Rotary Table 8" Horizontal/Vertical HV8-4 Precision 3MT center
Hi folks
I bought this for about $192 total from Vevor. I viewed a video from "lets Roger that" & he does a very comprehensive review on this exact rotary table. it was packed OK & the quality "seems" to be decent as of right now. i was holding out for a used Troyke, Yuasa, Bison, Cincinnati...ect, but they all got scooped up quickly or were very pricey, so I thought I would give this a try. I'm by no means a trained or experienced machinist, just a hobby shop guy.
https://youtu.be/oGz3IMkxqec
From "lets Roger that"
https://youtu.be/oEFrATWR414?si=O4Zf5fOQiMFjvpzq
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Hi
Bit late on the die filler, not sure you know about Vintage Machinery site, http://www.vintagemachinery.org/home.aspx. It has lots of information on many companies like Keller. Not sure which model you have, here is link to Keller 1A model manual: http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=23070
I have an All American die filler here is a link to it : https://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=179474
I use mine a lot and have a nice collection of files, I find them at flea markets, you need to look carefully but a giveaway is the tang and that there is no taper on any sides, as well as the direction of the cut when you drag it across your fingernail. I have made adapters for short files to fit my machine.
Bob
Good advice on finding machine files, I've made a few now & am getting better @ making them, its not overly hard to do & donor files are easy to come by/buy 😊
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Hi
Bit late on the die filler, not sure you know about Vintage Machinery site, http://www.vintagemachinery.org/home.aspx. It has lots of information on many companies like Keller. Not sure which model you have, here is link to Keller 1A model manual: http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=23070
I have an All American die filler here is a link to it : https://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=179474
I use mine a lot and have a nice collection of files, I find them at flea markets, you need to look carefully but a giveaway is the tang and that there is no taper on any sides, as well as the direction of the cut when you drag it across your fingernail. I have made adapters for short files to fit my machine.
Bob
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Always wonder how everyone else's metal lathe (and mills) always look so pristine. I use the ubiquitous paint brush, but my lathe never looks spotless.
Do people use compressed air even though its a suppose 'no no' on machinery?
I have never used compressed air, Tubal Cain (Mr. Pete) has taught me that valuable lesson which was also driven home when I bought & restored that Kurt 6" vise, that shop used compressed air & I struggled for 30 minutes trying to get the Nut out from under the movable jaw, it was so packed with shavings (that had no earthly business being up under there) that it was almost one unit. I use a shop vac also, but find I need one with a small nozzle to get into tight places.
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While compressed air is handy for cleaning after drilling and tapping, it's not useful for cleaning machinery unless you just want chips blasted everywhere they shouldn't be.
I have several of these cheap shop brushes ($4 for me):
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00351601
I remove the T-Slot cleaner as I have a better, fitted one for that type of work. They are a small but nice size with stiff bristles that knock chips out but they don't embed into the brush. For small jobs you can catch the mess in a dustpan, but most of the time it's just easier to break out the shop vac and clean everything properly. It's part of the job unless you like working in a pigsty.
For machinery mats to stand on I use those rubber kitchen/grease mats sold for restaurants. They keep my old feet off the cold, hard concrete and the holes give someplace for the chips to go instead of grinding them into the soles of your shoes. The best way to clean them is with the shop vac. Duck boards are also common for this use but they would be a trip hazard in my small shop.
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I don't use compressed air on my machines .... I use a vacuum instead. The way my shop is totally cluttered up, it's really a storage area that I happen to have a couple of machine tools in, blowing chips is simply not an option.
Paintbrush and vacuum works well for me!
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Use compressed air with care and low pressure some, always watch eyes. Also. I try to keep a cheap paint brush handy for chips.
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Always wonder how everyone else's metal lathe (and mills) always look so pristine. I use the ubiquitous paint brush, but my lathe never looks spotless.
Do people use compressed air even though its a suppose 'no no' on machinery?
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I live near tormach in Waunakee WI, and know a few people with their machines, and even know a guy who works there. Excellent support and the software seems to be really exceptional. That said I didnt have that kind of cash and I am just setting up my shop, so I picked up a 500$ enco knee mill and added a TouchDRO system. Had been running it on a 120v single phase to 220v 3 phase vfd, but have since set up a Rotary Phase converter because my new old lathe cannot use a vfd. Lathe is a leblonde 15x54 bought on surplus for a song, and admittedly is way too much machine for my 1700sqrft house basement haha.
You have some really robust machines there, can't wait to see what projects comes out of "the basement" 😊
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How clever is that sled!!!
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I live near tormach in Waunakee WI, and know a few people with their machines, and even know a guy who works there. Excellent support and the software seems to be really exceptional. That said I didnt have that kind of cash and I am just setting up my shop, so I picked up a 500$ enco knee mill and added a TouchDRO system. Had been running it on a 120v single phase to 220v 3 phase vfd, but have since set up a Rotary Phase converter because my new old lathe cannot use a vfd. Lathe is a leblonde 15x54 bought on surplus for a song, and admittedly is way too much machine for my 1700sqrft house basement haha.
Not much that you can't do with those wonderful machines in your shop!
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I live near tormach in Waunakee WI, and know a few people with their machines, and even know a guy who works there. Excellent support and the software seems to be really exceptional. That said I didnt have that kind of cash and I am just setting up my shop, so I picked up a 500$ enco knee mill and added a TouchDRO system. Had been running it on a 120v single phase to 220v 3 phase vfd, but have since set up a Rotary Phase converter because my new old lathe cannot use a vfd. Lathe is a leblonde 15x54 bought on surplus for a song, and admittedly is way too much machine for my 1700sqrft house basement haha.
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Thanks Daniel & Charlie. My South Bend lathes aren't seeing much use lately, (& that kinda surprises me)
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I watched your video this morning.
Some great enhancements to this fine lathe.
I really enjoyed the video.
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That chuck cradle, or sled, is really slick. I just use an old scrap piece of two by four on my Atlas 618, but then my chuck probably only weighs about 1/3rd of yours, so is much easier to handle and lift. I know on the Okuma I used to operate, changing out the chuck was a two-man job, partially due to weight but even more so due to the awkwardness of it. Having a system and a dedicated tool like that sled is just plain SLICK, and plenty smart too!
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PM-1228vf-lb lathe, "Chuck sled" & quality of life improvements
https://youtu.be/qn4-E2x-Sjg
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Are you keeping your South Bend too?
I still have both 9" South Bend lathes, I have always thought that I would move on my plain old SB 9"(my 1st lathe) but I'm really fond of that lathe & it probably wouldn't bring much money anyway...no hurry. Needing the space would be the main reason to move it out. I'm replacing steam engine storage with machine allocation. I'm finding that modifying machinery is not much different than modify steam engines.(& I'm loving it 😊) I've been on the hunt for so long for certain items that I know I will miss that aspect of it, I'm still wanting a few more items (hydraulic lift table, d1-4 mount 5-C collet chuck) but no hurry on those, it was fun. I now need to start shifting my focus on learning how to use the machinery I now have.
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That PM-1228 looks like a wonderful and capable machine ..... especially nice with a couple of well thought out convenience modifications!
Thanks Stoker, I got to use it today for awhile. :)
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That PM-1228 looks like a wonderful and capable machine ..... especially nice with a couple of well thought out convenience modifications!
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That's a great lathe Bruce, you're going to love using that sweet piece of machinery mate!
Great score getting all the bits & bobs with it.
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Hi folks
here is a video of my (new to me) PM-1228VF-LB Lathe, it's been in the background of a few of my videos, but never the focus. I received this about 6 weeks ago from a machinery dealer that got it via the family of the fellow who bought it new along with quite a load of accessories. I was quite blessed to get the lathe with all the extra goodies that can add to the cost very quickly. this is the last "Major" piece of the desired machinery puzzle that I was hoping to acquire before I retired. I want a 5-C collet chuck for it but, Precision Matthews is out of stock for this item currently.
https://youtu.be/V8weM5xa1Yc
A little better explanation of the operation of the gear selector lever.
https://youtu.be/TltdoGpQpUM
how I built the reversing lever
https://youtu.be/4x9nxVYHztg
the quick change blet levers
https://youtu.be/rVFAmGcYl_s
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And now....the rest of the story...
https://youtu.be/4jU84gL4XOs
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Okay, good to know, but all my files cut on the push stroke. Don't know that I've ever seen one that didn't.
It seems as if your making my point,tang on top, being pulled downward into the work.
My apologies then Bruce, but from your video it actually appears that you have a common rattail file mounted with the tapered end pointing up (see video at 1:14 - 1:18) and the tang mounted under the table in the drive collet (see video at 2:08), though in motion and blurred.
Please excuse my incorrect observations and assumptions!
Certainly not an issue, I think our terminology got misunderstood, the tang (handle end) is on top, being pulled downward into the work, there is no taper on this file, it's the only file I had on hand that would (kinda) work in the moment. Per blondihacks videos, I'll make an assortment of files over time & since this die filer has the spring loaded over arm & I can clamp hack saw blades, abrasive stones & lapping sticks.
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This is where I got the majority of information about this machine.
https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=569212b0da95c5a2JmltdHM9MTcyNTQwODAwMCZpZ3VpZD0yZGNlNjAyMC01NGVmLTY4YmItM2Y0Ni02ZDljNTU0NzY5NTUmaW5zaWQ9NTIzMQ&ptn=3&ver=2&hsh=3&fclid=2dce6020-54ef-68bb-3f46-6d9c55476955&psq=keller+die+filers&u=a1aHR0cDovL3ZpbnRhZ2VtYWNoaW5lcnkub3JnL3B1YnMvMjExNC8yMzA3MC5wZGY&ntb=1
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Here is a link that may be of use from a quick search.
https://www.falcontool.com/PublicStore/product/Swiss-Parallel-Machine-Files,577,183.aspx
Thanks Bill. Falcon tools is one of the last vendors still selling off NOS machine parallel files (as far as I know) and they aren't making anymore.
Sounds like you'd best stock up while you still can then Bruce!
Cool addition to your recently expanded shop, on that we can all agree!!!
Thanks, I should be able to make my own, plenty of videos on how to do it.
https://youtu.be/Azrk60wxl_4?si=Ecssd4Js16bOCCoL
What a cool chick she is, great YT channel!
She's amazing, explains everything so precisely but yet understandable.
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Okay, good to know, but all my files cut on the push stroke. Don't know that I've ever seen one that didn't.
It seems as if your making my point,tang on top, being pulled downward into the work.
My apologies then Bruce, but from your video it actually appears that you have a common rattail file mounted with the tapered end pointing up (see video at 1:14 - 1:18) and the tang mounted under the table in the drive collet (see video at 2:08), though in motion and blurred.
Please excuse my incorrect observations and assumptions!
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Here is a link that may be of use from a quick search.
https://www.falcontool.com/PublicStore/product/Swiss-Parallel-Machine-Files,577,183.aspx
Thanks Bill. Falcon tools is one of the last vendors still selling off NOS machine parallel files (as far as I know) and they aren't making anymore.
Sounds like you'd best stock up while you still can then Bruce!
Cool addition to your recently expanded shop, on that we can all agree!!!
Thanks, I should be able to make my own, plenty of videos on how to do it.
https://youtu.be/Azrk60wxl_4?si=Ecssd4Js16bOCCoL
What a cool chick she is, great YT channel!
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Interesting tool, I've never seen one before.
Thanks Jim, I don't think they're made anymore, I've been on the hunt for one quit awhile " this just happened to be right across the road. 😊
What a great find across the road and a terrific addition to your newly revamped workshop.
Wishing you many many hours of enjoyment in their Bruce.
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Here is a link that may be of use from a quick search.
https://www.falcontool.com/PublicStore/product/Swiss-Parallel-Machine-Files,577,183.aspx
Thanks Bill. Falcon tools is one of the last vendors still selling off NOS machine parallel files (as far as I know) and they aren't making anymore.
Sounds like you'd best stock up while you still can then Bruce!
Cool addition to your recently expanded shop, on that we can all agree!!!
Thanks, I should be able to make my own, plenty of videos on how to do it.
https://youtu.be/Azrk60wxl_4?si=Ecssd4Js16bOCCoL
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Okay, good to know, but all my files cut on the push stroke. Don't know that I've ever seen one that didn't.
It seems as if your making my point, tang on top, being pulled downward into the work.
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Here is a link that may be of use from a quick search.
https://www.falcontool.com/PublicStore/product/Swiss-Parallel-Machine-Files,577,183.aspx
Thanks Bill. Falcon tools is one of the last vendors still selling off NOS machine parallel files (as far as I know) and they aren't making anymore.
Sounds like you'd best stock up while you still can then Bruce!
Cool addition to your recently expanded shop, on that we can all agree!!!
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Here is a link that may be of use from a quick search.
https://www.falcontool.com/PublicStore/product/Swiss-Parallel-Machine-Files,577,183.aspx
Thanks Bill. Falcon tools is one of the last vendors still selling off NOS machine parallel files (as far as I know) and they aren't making anymore.
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Interesting tool, I've never seen one before.
Thanks Jim, I don't think they're made anymore, I've been on the hunt for one quit awhile " this just happened to be right across the road. 😊
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Interesting tool, I've never seen one before.
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Here is a link that may be of use from a quick search.
https://www.falcontool.com/PublicStore/product/Swiss-Parallel-Machine-Files,577,183.aspx
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Stoker is correct,
Die files for a die filing machine do indeed file on the downstroke, tang on the other end.
Not easy to source these days, there are some places that still sell them.
I know some have modified standard files to fit.
Nice machine by the way. :)
Bill
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This Old Tony and Fire Ball Tool are youtubers that scratch the machinist watch itch...filing and die file vids linked
https://youtu.be/6lxJ3E_UjtY?si=ROO4wLVhD7zluBGT
https://youtu.be/xbykic--SKA?si=5dqAg32j0ZUt9rZ4
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Okay, good to know, but all my files cut on the push stroke. Don't know that I've ever seen one that didn't.
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What a cool score for your shop there Bruce!
I don't really know, but it looks like your file is cutting on the upstroke, and I thought it was preferable to have the file cut on the down stroke against the table's resistance?
its cutting on the downstroke, chainsaw files cut on the push ( or downward pull, as I have it in the machine),
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What a cool score for your shop there Bruce!
I don't really know, but it looks like your file is cutting on the upstroke, and I thought it was preferable to have the file cut on the down stroke against the table's resistance?
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What a great find and so close to home!
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Keller F256B deluxe die filer (after cleanup)
Hi folks
I just got done spending a few hrs. cleaning this wonderful machine, it was in very good working condition & I haven't needed to spend an additional cent on it, although the original drive belt seems to have a permanent curve in it where it was stored for so long around the small pulley & that makes the motor bounce more than it probably should. from my research by David J. Young, this is the top-of-the-line deluxe model, with an addition hold down arm purchased separately as well. I don't have any idea of how old it is & there is very little information on these Keller die Filers, but I'm guessing early 70's. it runs very well, & cleaned up nicely with most of the original paint still intact.
https://youtu.be/ZVdr_n73YMo
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Honestly...I haven't used it yet (the dro)
Please then, report back after you have used it enough to get a feel for it!
That could be awhile, I been doing it so long without using one that I believe I'll have to "force" myself to use it.
Shouldn't be any harder than forcing yourself to use your new mill, or are you limiting yourself to only move the table and spindle as far as the old one could?!?!
I should add that if you truly love doing the extra math and figuring lash, doing it all the old analog way, then it is great that you derive your enjoyment in such a manner, while at least on a certain level, I can fully understand and even applaud your methods!!!
I actually spent a fair amount of my machine time doing precisely that (back before DROs existed or at least were common and affordable), but now find that using the DRO vastly speeds my work, ensures better accuracy and minimizes common errors, as it is basically just a "GPS" for your locations on the mill table.
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Honestly...I haven't used it yet (the dro)
Please then, report back after you have used it enough to get a feel for it!
That could be awhile, I been doing it so long without using one that I believe I'll have to "force" myself to use it.
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Honestly...I haven't used it yet (the dro)
Please then, report back after you have used it enough to get a feel for it!
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Honestly...I haven't used it yet (the dro)
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So Bruce ...... how do you like having a DRO on that mill now???
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Gettin' shed envy here Bruce
I have been very fortunate to find EXACTLY what I have been looking for ,while saving money & getting a lot of additional tooling in on the deal.
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A nice 6" vise you got there Bruce!
I think earlier I advised you to not get any bigger than a 4" vise, but that was before you decided to buy a big knee mill with a table that needs a big six incher!!
The key issues to look for on a vise like that are checking that the vise ways are fully parallel with your table, and that your movable jaw doesn't "jump" up any measurable amount when you clamp onto a work piece!!!
Thanks Daniel
The beauty of a Kurt Ang-lock vise is that they put about a 3rd of the pressure in a downward force. Although I am certainly watching for what you describe with my tappity tap brass hammer. 😊
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Gettin' shed envy here Bruce
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A nice 6" vise you got there Bruce!
I think earlier I advised you to not get any bigger than a 4" vise, but that was before you decided to buy a big knee mill with a table that needs a big six incher!!
The key issues to look for on a vise like that are checking that the vise ways are fully parallel with your table, and that your movable jaw doesn't "jump" up any measurable amount when you clamp onto a work piece!!!
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Larin 2-ton tool/lathe/engine pneumatic hoist, I got this off of Facebook marketplace & this is just perfect for moving machinery.
https://youtu.be/iiXKa8X-feA
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Kurt D-675 vise,(refurbished)
https://youtu.be/Jax3CBwm7GU
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What's the make & model number?
More to come soon...
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What's the make & model number?
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Got a pic of your new lathe Bruce?
EDIT: ok seen the ones I missed :) but need more :)
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Well now, you've certainly faked me out Bruce!
I thought you were going to go with that South Bend that you so nicely refurbished?!?!
This is the final piece that I was hoping to get (Ya' right 😉). I have to rent a hoist to get it up on the bench.
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Well now, you've certainly faked me out Bruce!
I thought you were going to go with that South Bend that you so nicely refurbished?!?!
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uncrating.
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picking up my new lathe from Fastenal.
https://youtu.be/a7afhIQK974
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have an exciting day coming up for me, going to p/u my new lathe from the Fastenal DC in Indy today, they have a little-known freight service called "Blue line" & while not exactly quick, they are much less expensive than traditional freight delivery companies (one of which I work for) & they will normally deliver to a Fastenal store in your town, my freight was oversized for local delivery, thus I must go fetch it from Indy. I will follow up with a progress report.
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Have steady rest but keeping that with lathe, not sure about the micro adjustable. Would not be willing to part with mine except I have a larger (11 inch) lathe. Yours looks nice after restoration.
Len.
Thinking about it being 84 yrs old is....Wow. its had a very well cared for life.the wiring was still original & "Scary bad" it's a wonder it didn't short itself out. The original switch has contact lugs so thick I doubt you could ever wear them out.
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Have steady rest but keeping that with lathe, not sure about the micro adjustable. Would not be willing to part with mine except I have a larger (11 inch) lathe. Yours looks nice after restoration.
Len.
Thanks Len.
Like anything mechanical, I don't consider a thorough cleaning & a good paint job a "restoration". unless all the parts that are worn have been re:machined...it just a clean & paint job.
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Mine is 116851, if my memory and research are correct this corresponds to Oct 1941. Based on chart your serial falls in 1940.
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/South-Bend-Lathe-Works.ashx
PS considering selling 116851 to the right home, so curious as to what you were willing to give for a 1940 era 9 inch Southbend.
Len.
Pm sent.
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[attachimg=1]
Right, looks like it was built somewhere at the end of 1940. The lathe doesn't look bad for 84+ years old!
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Have steady rest but keeping that with lathe, not sure about the micro adjustable. Would not be willing to part with mine except I have a larger (11 inch) lathe. Yours looks nice after restoration.
Len.
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Mine is 116851, if my memory and research are correct this corresponds to Oct 1941. Based on chart your serial falls in 1940.
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/South-Bend-Lathe-Works.ashx
PS considering selling 116851 to the right home, so curious as to what you were willing to give for a 1940 era 9 inch Southbend.
Len.
Ah...there's that good site I found once, thank you !,
...I am looking for a micro adjustable steady rest for a 9" SB lathe though.
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Mine is 116851, if my memory and research are correct this corresponds to Oct 1941. Based on chart your serial falls in 1940.
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/South-Bend-Lathe-Works.ashx
PS considering selling 116851 to the right home, so curious as to what you were willing to give for a 1940 era 9 inch Southbend.
Len.
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Here is the #
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You got the old South Bend all cleaned-up and looking pretty!
Did you check the lathe's serial number at wswells website? I'm guessing the lathe was made sometime in the 30's to 40's.
Honestly, I've never had good luck with that site.
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You got the old South Bend all cleaned-up and looking pretty!
Did you check the lathe's serial number at wswells website? I'm guessing the lathe was made sometime in the 30's to 40's.
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Oh man, the chips will be flyin' now!!! ;c)
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Tool haul with the PM-935TS mill
https://youtu.be/oNYsIYMNW_I
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Hello folks
South Bend 9" model A refurbished W/RPM Tach.
here is my "new to me" South bend 9" model A precision lathe, it took me 6 MOs to find the one I was looking for & I had to drive 6 hrs. (one way) to retrieve it. I tore it apart & completely cleaned it, honestly it was pretty clean to start with, but I took it all the way down & went through the gearbox & spindle head & carriage saddle. everything was scrubbed spotlessly & a new felt kit applied regardless of if it needed it or not. I had Sherwin Williams mix up the "perfect" green/gray paint...it took 3 attempts, but it now has industrial oil-based enamel on it now. (takes a week to cure) I installed an RPM/tachometer L.E.D read out on it, which works very well. I shortened the linkage & belt so it can be on a 24" deep countertop. all the wiring was replaced as well (it was scary original) & a grounded plug was installed. it has a new QCTP setup as well.
7/8” Metal Snap in Panel Plugs Bright Nickel Plated Steel Hole Cover .875 Silver
https://www.ebay.com/itm/333987221698?var=543026227974
115V rpm led gauge
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B63S2TSN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
blk plastic electrical boxes
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08N6P4HPH?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://youtu.be/2vQnfFSGlTU
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PS I feel ya on the mobility vs stability debate. ;)
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Sweet! Congratulations on your purchase and enjoy! Just having the mill available will occupy your "hobby mind", and that is worth price.
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Basically, you have just gotten yourself a new made "Bridgeport" ..... fully decked out!
Oh, the things you can make now!!
I can hardly wait to see what you create with your newly upgraded shop!!!
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You will enjoy a nice heavy mill compared to Taig you mentioned, and after a few projects wonder how you got jobs done without it. You need to pay once and “cry once” or you will pay twice and “cry louder”! I think that has been inferred in the posts.
Good Luck and enjoy your retirement gifts – be generous to yourself.
Bob
I was generous to myself, & listened to your good advice.
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Just saw that the 3 axis adds 700 bucks, but yolo. Not sure what you are starting with but consider having a nice vice and clamping set is a must. Drill chuck, collets also plus tooling.
It adds up, I cried every payment now I am done paying for it I enjoy the hobby time it provides.
Did just what you suggested, thanks for the guidance.
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Hi Bruce, You have acquired a great piece of hardware..!!!
Congrats!
Gil
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No wonder you've been AWOL Bruce......my mini mill looks now like even more of a toy than it is!!!
That's some serious metal you have there mate!!!
thanks Jim, it's been a very busy time for me. I also tore apart a South Bend 9" lathe & went all through it...incredible amount of cleaning & very laborious, that will be my next video.
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Oooooooohhhhhh ..... That's real Purty!
Great that you went upscale to get a knee mill with a longer spindle throw!!
Major CONGRATULATIONS Bruce .... she's a real beauty!!!
Oh yeah, and one other thing .... WELCOME BACK BRUCE ..... you've been well missed.
Thanks Stoker.
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Well, I see you went with the "buy once, cry once" motto and got a great mill! This should easily last you for several lifetimes and you'll never outgrow it. Whoever had it before you certainly didn't use it much as it still looks absolutely brand new.
Yes, I did the buy once, cry once. seems to be the general opinion re: buying good tooling, I'm very happy with it.
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That sure is a nice piece of equipment Bruce, congratulations!
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No wonder you've been AWOL Bruce......my mini mill looks now like even more of a toy than it is!!!
That's some serious metal you have there mate!!!
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Well, I see you went with the "buy once, cry once" motto and got a great mill! This should easily last you for several lifetimes and you'll never outgrow it. Whoever had it before you certainly didn't use it much as it still looks absolutely brand new.
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Oooooooohhhhhh ..... That's real Purty!
Great that you went upscale to get a knee mill with a longer spindle throw!!
Major CONGRATULATIONS Bruce .... she's a real beauty!!!
Oh yeah, and one other thing .... WELCOME BACK BRUCE ..... you've been well missed.
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Well, I've been pretty busy here in St. Paul In, I've acquired 3 new (to me) pieces of machinery. Here is a Precision Matthews PM-935TS. in my usual fashion I have performed a few "Quality of life" improvements on it.
https://youtu.be/8sqTn54lNIo
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Sometimes I feel like I'm learning machining all over again, (the correct way) I got my QCTP & accessories in and have been adjusting to them over from the old lantern style tool holder, although I was pretty good with the lantern post, these quick change tools are a lot more fun. I've been looking at nice machinist mill vises...my the good ones aren't cheap re:Kurt, 😉
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I have no knowledge of this Baileigh mill, but the picture makes it look like it has the same base casting and column attachment style as does the Precision Mathews, which I would definitely rate as a better system than my Grizzly. The specs I'm seeing say that the VMD-931G has 4.75" of quill travel which is only 1/4" less than the Bridgeport I used to work with, and more than twice what my little G0704 has available. I'd say the 4.75" should be more than adequate for almost anything you'll need to do, but the column can give you over a foot more Z-travel drop should you need it.
I will say that perhaps my biggest disappointment with my little Grizzly mill is the small amount of quill travel at just barely over 2", but rarely do any work that require accommodations for that short travel, while in spite of that shortcoming, I'm still quite happy with it and wouldn't likely be able to give any bigger of a mill a home anyway. Looks like that Baileigh is nearly four times the ship weight of my little G0704, but also twice the horsepower as well. I'm sure that it also has a host of other superior features to offer such as the power table feeds shown!
Thank you, I guess I saw Drilling Capacity (In)1.5 then elsewhere it say 1.75" a bit confusing, & the weight seems to change in different places as well (maybe a stand added in)
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I have no knowledge of this Baileigh mill, but the picture makes it look like it has the same base casting and column attachment style as does the Precision Mathews, which I would definitely rate as a better system than my Grizzly. The specs I'm seeing say that the VMD-931G has 4.75" of quill travel which is only 1/4" less than the Bridgeport I used to work with, and more than twice what my little G0704 has available. I'd say the 4.75" should be more than adequate for almost anything you'll need to do, but the column can give you over a foot more Z-travel drop should you need it.
I will say that perhaps my biggest disappointment with my little Grizzly mill is the small amount of quill travel at just barely over 2", but rarely do any work that require accommodations for that short travel, while in spite of that shortcoming, I'm still quite happy with it and wouldn't likely be able to give any bigger of a mill a home anyway. Looks like that Baileigh is nearly four times the ship weight of my little G0704, but also twice the horsepower as well. I'm sure that it also has a host of other superior features to offer such as the power table feeds shown!
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Does anyone have any knowledge/experience with Baileigh mills, this one caught my attention. Vertical Mill Drill - (VMD-931G) although the quill travel is quite miniscule.
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Sounds like you are deep into the hunt and stalking your quarry carefully.
Best of luck and I hope you manage to bag your limit!!!
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Hey Bruce
Don't know if you are still looking at Precision Mathews, or even column mills of any brand, but since you started this thread, I've been looking around at what's available and comparing it to my little Grizzly mill. I am still perfectly happy with my G0704, but it seems like you have jumped up a level or three as you are now talking about an 1,100-pound machine it seems, and that is in a completely different class from what I have.
However, one thing I've noticed about PM column mills that would make me lean that way rather hard were I to be buying now, is the way that the column is mounted to the base on the PM machine looks to be much more ridged than how my Grizzly mill column is attached. Of course, being more ridged, does not mean that it is necessarily square to the table as received from the factory, but it does mean that once properly squared up, it is less likely to go out of square caused by taking a heavy cut or similar stress.
Just another point to ponder!
Thanks Stoker
If I buy new ,it will be a Precision Mathews most likely. I like the PM932V vertical mill, crazyDoug has one of these also. The price difference seems to be acceptable, I'm also liking the PM1130V lathe. I have found 2 PM mills that are fairly new on FB marketplace ,although they are not very close to me albeit somewhat cheaper than new. Precision Mathews seem to be a little better made as far as the Chinese tools go. I am trying to deal with a nice little South Bend model A lathe that will be a nice compliment to my SB model C with many more features than mine has and the benefit of sharing all tooling, but the seller is a real squirrel and I can't peg him down on anything, cost, time to see it,availability, what is included...ect, but by the photo's I really like what I see.
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Hey Bruce
Don't know if you are still looking at Precision Mathews, or even column mills of any brand, but since you started this thread, I've been looking around at what's available and comparing it to my little Grizzly mill. I am still perfectly happy with my G0704, but it seems like you have jumped up a level or three as you are now talking about an 1,100-pound machine it seems, and that is in a completely different class from what I have.
However, one thing I've noticed about PM column mills that would make me lean that way rather hard were I to be buying now, is the way that the column is mounted to the base on the PM machine looks to be much more ridged than how my Grizzly mill column is attached. Of course, being more ridged, does not mean that it is necessarily square to the table as received from the factory, but it does mean that once properly squared up, it is less likely to go out of square caused by taking a heavy cut or similar stress.
Just another point to ponder!
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My little mill has an R-8 spindle nose, probably mostly because that is what I was used to working with on the Bridgeport where I was last enslaved. I do have an ER-25 set of collets that came with a R-8 mounting chuck to hold them, but rarely find use for them on the mill, while I do use them extensively on my Atlas 618 in a collet chuck I built from a Dean Williams tutorial.
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Looks like a decent hobby mill you have there Charlie ..... but you really shouldn't go barefoot in a machine shop!
Ouch!!! ;c)
I was just taking pictures.
I didn’t notice that my ugly foot got in the picture until you mentioned it. :)
Charlie got busted...lol
nice looking set-up there Charlie, my Taig mill is smaller than yours, but has served me well for 10+ years (ever since Dean Williams was on the Mamod forum)
I am going with R-8 collets (well that's what the machine takes) I already have them, & a set of C-5 collets. I plan on picking the brains of the machinist on here about many things most likely. I am drooling over so much tooling & buying bits & bobs here & there when I can. (this is fun)
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Looks like a decent hobby mill you have there Charlie ..... but you really shouldn't go barefoot in a machine shop!
Ouch!!! ;c)
I was just taking pictures.
I didn’t notice that my ugly foot got in the picture until you mentioned it. :)
Nothing especially ugly about your foot Charlie, but I just had to wince thinking of a nice sharp curved chip piercing the bottom of your foot and how much fun that would be getting it back out.
I diligently sweep the floor around my machine tools after every use, but still find nasty little sharp chips around on the floor, and other places you wouldn't really expect, afterwards.
For that matter, I always remove and check the bottom of my shoes and other clothing before reentering the house, as should any of those nasty little chips get into the carpeting then into my Lady's foot, I'd certainly have to be looking for a new place to live!!!
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Looks like a decent hobby mill you have there Charlie ..... but you really shouldn't go barefoot in a machine shop!
Ouch!!! ;c)
I was just taking pictures.
I didn’t notice that my ugly foot got in the picture until you mentioned it. :)
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Looks like a decent hobby mill you have there Charlie ..... but you really shouldn't go barefoot in a machine shop!
Ouch!!! ;c)
It would also be best if you didn't try to do any milling in such close proximity to all of those wonderful display shelves, without some form of good cover over them.
Chips do fly!!!
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I have a table top milling machine made in Austria that I got from a good friend. I believe it is an Emco-Maier made in Austria. I haven’t used it much. Mainly, I use it as a drill press.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
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While on the subject of vises, I have a Palmgren 2 1/2" tilting vise that I find quite useful on occasion. It is not ridged enough to make heavy cuts, not precise enough to equal a sine plate, but for nearly any angle work that I do, it has proven adequate. Picked mine up second hand on evilbay for somewhere around $50 if I recall and have always considered that to have been a great bargain. You may wish to keep your eyes open for such a deal but beware that many of them out there are well hammered and abused, so wait for a decent one as they do come up occasionally.
On another note, you have probably already made this decision, but another important choice that needs to be made in selecting a mill is what kind of spindle nose you'll be wanting to mount what type of collets, chucks and other tooling.
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$369 Sounds in the ball park, work holding will need other threads I think.
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Thanks Bob & Masonvillengines, Stoker.
I am not a total novice at machining, just not use to a big mill. i am fully aware of the cost of buying nice equipment and yes, my wish list for the mill is almost doubled by the add on tools. I know its not a cnc mill & that I will need to do all the work and layout. A DRO kind of sounds like a GPS,it can get you where you wanna go, but don't trust it completely & keep your wits about you.I have come to the conclusion that a really nice precision mill vise is imperative (dang they're expensive though) the mill I'm looking at is large (850lbs) w/base, 1100 lbs.
What is a good mill vise for the money ? I know of Kurt & Glacern vises, I prefer not to mortgage the house for a vice.
That's a very good way to think of a DRO ... especially the last part of that sentence. But with use and familiarity, it will work well as a pair of calipers in your machining operations too. Not to say it will replace calipers and micrometers at all.
A vise is your single most important accessory in my consideration, but pricing is in direct proportion to size. On my little G0704 I have a cheepo Chinese 4" which has served me well and I wouldn't want anything bigger on my table. However, I did have a bit of work to do on that vise to get it as square and parallel as I wanted, but it was only a little work and that saved me several hundred over a "name brand" that may have needed similar adjustment, though probably not.
Perhaps recommendations from the company you buy the mill from may be worth asking for, and even suggest a discount from them on such accessories as a vise.
Precision Mathews sell several vices, a precision vice approx $169 and an Ultra precision vice for around $369 made by homge.I have already decided 4" would be enough for an 8" x32" table.
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Thanks Bob & Masonvillengines, Stoker.
I am not a total novice at machining, just not use to a big mill. i am fully aware of the cost of buying nice equipment and yes, my wish list for the mill is almost doubled by the add on tools. I know its not a cnc mill & that I will need to do all the work and layout. A DRO kind of sounds like a GPS,it can get you where you wanna go, but don't trust it completely & keep your wits about you.I have come to the conclusion that a really nice precision mill vise is imperative (dang they're expensive though) the mill I'm looking at is large (850lbs) w/base, 1100 lbs.
What is a good mill vise for the money ? I know of Kurt & Glacern vises, I prefer not to mortgage the house for a vice.
That's a very good way to think of a DRO ... especially the last part of that sentence. But with use and familiarity, it will work well as a pair of calipers in your machining operations too. Not to say it will replace calipers and micrometers at all.
A vise is your single most important accessory in my consideration, but pricing is in direct proportion to size. On my little G0704 I have a cheepo Chinese 4" which has served me well and I wouldn't want anything bigger on my table. However, I did have a bit of work to do on that vise to get it as square and parallel as I wanted, but it was only a little work and that saved me several hundred over a "name brand" that may have needed similar adjustment, though probably not.
Perhaps recommendations from the company you buy the mill from may be worth asking for, and even suggest a discount from them on such accessories as a vise.
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Thanks Bob & Masonvillengines, Stoker.
I am not a total novice at machining, just not use to a big mill. i am fully aware of the cost of buying nice equipment and yes, my wish list for the mill is almost doubled by the add on tools. I know its not a cnc mill & that I will need to do all the work and layout. A DRO kind of sounds like a GPS,it can get you where you wanna go, but don't trust it completely & keep your wits about you.I have come to the conclusion that a really nice precision mill vise is imperative (dang they're expensive though) the mill I'm looking at is large (850lbs) w/base, 1100 lbs.
What is a good mill vise for the money ? I know of Kurt & Glacern vises, I prefer not to mortgage the house for a vice.
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I have a bit of a different position on DRO’s. Yes get one on your new mill whatever one you purchase. It will be a great “aid” in your machine work. You get what you pay for so match the quality of the DRO to the machine you purchase, maybe one step higher. Remember the machine you buy is going to move around when you cut, how much depends on its rigidity. Since I started in the machining hobby in the mid 70’s, I have acquired 5 milling machines that I kept, two with DRO’s, each of these five machines act differently when cutting. The two with DRO’s let me cut a whole lot faster, but when you get close to the end it’s time to get out accurate measuring devices. Of course it depends what you are making.
The point is do not assume the DRO is going to make your machine any better than it already is. The DRO is just an “aid” that makes cutting and measuring easier, as long as you remember which side of the center you are on or which side the cutter the zero is set etc. You still need to acquire all the mill machining skills i.e. what your mill does with a climb cut, how much of a cut can you take, how to compensate for your vise, if you have variable speed ( another worthwhile “aid”) how does it affect the cut if changing on the fly, power feed control another “aid” that needs understanding, cutting dry or with a lubricant, and then add in the with or without the DRO.
BTW you mentioned the possibility of a lathe, that’s a whole different set of possibilities with a DRO, again an “aid”. I have one with a DRO and can make stuff at least 50% faster as long as you pay attention.
You will enjoy a nice heavy mill compared to Taig you mentioned, and after a few projects wonder how you got jobs done without it. You need to pay once and “cry once” or you will pay twice and “cry louder”! I think that has been inferred in the posts.
Good Luck and enjoy your retirement gifts – be generous to yourself.
Bob
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There are soooooo many advantages to having a DRO on your mill, that it would be pointless for me to enumerate them.
However, perhaps the greatest single benefit is that it eliminates any need for thought of backlash on your cranks and dials, thus simplifies all calculations and movements. The DRO only indicates actual table movements, and offers a host of other pushbutton calculations to aid in finding positions like centering & etc.
If I recall correctly the purchase price of my aftermarket 3-axis DRO was something north of $300, and while instillation was simple in principle, it really was not all that simple nor easy to actually accomplish, and it needs to be accomplished with a high degree of precision if it is to work correctly. The indicator (encoder) rods are very easily damaged if mishandled, or especially if not installed with near perfect linear alignment to their axis of movement! They also need to be somewhat shrouded for chip protection but still open enough for connectivity. Therefore, at the end of the day I truly believe that the added cost of having it factory installed may well be a better bargain, especially if there is a warranty involved.
Edit:
Additionally, a point I should have mentioned above is that there is, among the many features available on a DRO, one that is especially wonderful, maybe even magical, in that no matter what system your machine was built to, and your dials are set at, with the push of a button you can work in either Imperial or Metric measure with perfect facility!
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Just saw that the 3 axis adds 700 bucks, but yolo. Not sure what you are starting with but consider having a nice vice and clamping set is a must. Drill chuck, collets also plus tooling.
It adds up, I cried every payment now I am done paying for it I enjoy the hobby time it provides.
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A digital read out is just a sensor on a slider the displays position from a reference zero you set. Accurate installation is required for precise read out. Easily enough done but nice and convenient to have straight from factory.
You will appreciate this as you can accurate determine where you are on part and how deep you are cutting at a glance. Of course you can be precise with dials but many find it easier on eyes and brain.
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Speaking of CNC capabilities, half a dozen years ago there seemed to be a whole cult on the web, of folks using the Grizzly G0704 (perhaps the most popular unit used at that time) and units of similar build with other numbers and/or other brand names, doing home conversions to CNC and there even seemed to be kits available to make the conversions. Don't know if that is still true today, as I have no intention of doing such a conversion, so haven't been following those sites. I'd guess that is now "less of a thing" as dedicated CNC hobby sized mills are probably more available now than they were back then.
As for the DRO option, I cannot recommend it too highly, and were I to do it again, I'd have bought my mill with the factory DRO installed. Instead, I purchased an after-market DRO and installed it myself, which has actually worked out just fine, but it was a whole lot of work that might not have turned out as well as it did, and which ended up saving very little, if any, in total dollar outlay.
That was my next question, I've never used a DRO before, so really don't know what I'm missing, had a long talk with Doug (CrazyDoug)yesterday & he also strongly agrees not to buy a Vertical mill without this DRO feature, I am now leaning towards that direction & would like to hear more of the Pro's & Cons of a DRO please.
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PM, Grizzly and other similar brands of benchtop column mills are of a nearly identical design, and I have heard (though don't actually know) that many different brands come out of the same factory with but few little differences, mostly being the name plate.
For me, I'm a total loser when it comes to computers, and besides, I need the exercise of turning those cranks! ;c)
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The cult still exists and many do the same to PM machines. Ditto on dro.
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Speaking of CNC capabilities, half a dozen years ago there seemed to be a whole cult on the web, of folks using the Grizzly G0704 (perhaps the most popular unit used at that time) and units of similar build with other numbers and/or other brand names, doing home conversions to CNC and there even seemed to be kits available to make the conversions. Don't know if that is still true today, as I have no intention of doing such a conversion, so haven't been following those sites. I'd guess that is now "less of a thing" as dedicated CNC hobby sized mills are probably more available now than they were back then.
As for the DRO option, I cannot recommend it too highly, and were I to do it again, I'd have bought my mill with the factory DRO installed. Instead, I purchased an after-market DRO and installed it myself, which has actually worked out just fine, but it was a whole lot of work that might not have turned out as well as it did, and which ended up saving very little, if any, in total dollar outlay.
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Definitely a step up in pricing, the small one (one I have) not necessarily more of a mill than a PM but went with for it CNC.
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Not an owner ( I went tormach) but heavily considered Precision Mathews. More pricey than Grizzly but appear to be notch above in quality.
I had to look up Tormach, Wow, the entry level starts @ 7K well above my budget🫣, although still made in China, these must be production level machines, very nice☺️
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Don't know for sure what your needs or thoughts are Bruce. Second-hand Bridgeport mills are out there, and some are no doubt in fine condition, while others are undoubtedly junk, or near to it. You need to ask yourself if you have room for a full-sized Knee Mill and do you have 220 service available? How much table do you see yourself needing, and how much travel?
I've been quite happy with my Grizzly G0704 that I have added a DRO to, but it is still just a hobbyist type bench-top mill at the low end of the potential commercial usage range, and it certainly does have its limitations!
Grizzly G0704:
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-7-x-27-1-hp-mill-drill-with-stand/g0704?
Thank you, people are telling me bigger is always better, "cry once" seems to be the common phrase, but you make a good point about the table size & I doubt I really need a 32" table. Having used the little Taig mill and it doing most of what I asked of it is a credit to its sturdiness. I've told myself the a new mill & lathe will be a nice retirement gift to myself...maybe I shouldn't be so generous 😉
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I have owned my PM matthews 932 for 9 years. 1 reason i bought it over a comparable Grizzly is that i live close enough to pick it up in person. I opted to have the dro installed by the seller and no regrets there. Dont buy it without the dro, it is worth every cent. I have had to replace 3 minor parts over that 9 years and twice they replaced the part after the warranty period and still never charged me.
I have built at least 2 dozen steam and hit miss model engines on it as well as many other projects and i absolutely love it. I had an old bridgeport offered to me for free and passed on it, as they are always fairly worn, cumbersome, usually 3 phase, no dro and a beast to relocate. As for being chinese, my jet lathe is chinese and easier to find parts for than many of the old u.s. made lathes. I also have a southbend and atlas lathes, but my jet lathe is the one i use most.
Crazydoug
Just what I wanted to know. I've never had a built in DRO before, I've always been kind of a fly by the seat of my pants chip maker with 0 formal training, but now trying to catch and do things the "proper" way now I suppose.
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Not an owner ( I went tormach) but heavily considered Precision Mathews. More pricey than Grizzly but appear to be notch above in quality.
That's kind of the vibe I got as well, thank you. 😊
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I have owned my PM matthews 932 for 9 years. 1 reason i bought it over a comparable Grizzly is that i live close enough to pick it up in person. I opted to have the dro installed by the seller and no regrets there. Dont buy it without the dro, it is worth every cent. I have had to replace 3 minor parts over that 9 years and twice they replaced the part after the warranty period and still never charged me.
I have built at least 2 dozen steam and hit miss model engines on it as well as many other projects and i absolutely love it. I had an old bridgeport offered to me for free and passed on it, as they are always fairly worn, cumbersome, usually 3 phase, no dro and a beast to relocate. As for being chinese, my jet lathe is chinese and easier to find parts for than many of the old u.s. made lathes. I also have a southbend and atlas lathes, but my jet lathe is the one i use most.
Crazydoug
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Don't know for sure what your needs or thoughts are Bruce. Second-hand Bridgeport mills are out there, and some are no doubt in fine condition, while others are undoubtedly junk, or near to it. You need to ask yourself if you have room for a full-sized Knee Mill and do you have 220 service available? How much table do you see yourself needing, and how much travel?
I've been quite happy with my Grizzly G0704 that I have added a DRO to, but it is still just a hobbyist type bench-top mill at the low end of the potential commercial usage range, and it certainly does have its limitations!
Grizzly G0704:
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-7-x-27-1-hp-mill-drill-with-stand/g0704?
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The thing you need to understand with the cheaper (home shop) Asian equipment suppliers is that you are the QC inspector. Assume nothing has been checked and you will be on the right track. You will need to thoroughly inspect any new equipment and make sure your supplier will work with you if you find any problems. I bought my mill from Grizzly when they closed their Muncy, PA store as I was able to get a good deal with a discount and no shipping costs. PM Research in Pittsburgh would be another almost local option for me but I don't plan on buying anything else in the near future.
While I did some customizing to it, my mill (Taiwan) has always worked fine and been within specifications on tolerances and produced plenty of good parts over the years. Any issues I had was usually from the monkey turning the knobs. I've also helped people online diagnose problems with the exact same mill. To their credit, when presented with a clear and sane description of the problem Grizzly quickly sent replacement parts and that fellow was able to fix his mill and was happy in the end. He just had to do a little work.
Matt at PM isn't stupid and isn't afraid to offer influencers free or really good deals on shop equipment as the advertising is golden. Quinn got her current PM mill for free, which was freely announced but I'm sure she bought her PM lathe and first PM mill because she was unknown at the time.
Watch the beginning of this:
https://youtu.be/VzWYgwVHggE
Yes , I'm aware Quinn got her PM 728VT sent free to her, along with the Preist column lift and tons of other stuff as well as getting a little kick back from Amazon & who knows who else, I've actually watched that video before. Quinn still seems to be fairly impartial and matter of fact in her reviews. I like her style and knowledge and the way she relays information, yes I've seen her do things that a rookie would do IE crash her lathe carriage & bend the gear shaft.she has over 215k subscribers so I'm sure she's making a fulltime living from her YouTube proceeds, if you look up her bio, she's a very intelligent and qualified & accomplished electronic gaming tech whiz.
I just realized I've had a Grizzly 15" planer and 18" bandsaw for over 30 yrs, yes there is some things (sheet metal work) that is chinzy....but they have always worked. I am still a bigger fan of American tooling, but you can't find it new much anymore(for any price)
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The thing you need to understand with the cheaper (home shop) Asian equipment suppliers is that you are the QC inspector. Assume nothing has been checked and you will be on the right track. You will need to thoroughly inspect any new equipment and make sure your supplier will work with you if you find any problems. I bought my mill from Grizzly when they closed their Muncy, PA store as I was able to get a good deal with a discount and no shipping costs. PM Research in Pittsburgh would be another almost local option for me but I don't plan on buying anything else in the near future.
While I did some customizing to it, my mill (Taiwan) has always worked fine and been within specifications on tolerances and produced plenty of good parts over the years. Any issues I had was usually from the monkey turning the knobs. I've also helped people online diagnose problems with the exact same mill. To their credit, when presented with a clear and sane description of the problem Grizzly quickly sent replacement parts and that fellow was able to fix his mill and was happy in the end. He just had to do a little work.
Matt at PM isn't stupid and isn't afraid to offer influencers free or really good deals on shop equipment as the advertising is golden. Quinn got her current PM mill for free, which was freely announced but I'm sure she bought her PM lathe and first PM mill because she was unknown at the time.
Watch the beginning of this:
https://youtu.be/VzWYgwVHggE
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Not an owner ( I went tormach) but heavily considered Precision Mathews. More pricey than Grizzly but appear to be notch above in quality.
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My two cents is this, if there is a tool that I want, and there is two to pick from,
one is from China and the other is from Taiwan. I go with Taiwan. Precision and quality
are better than China.
Yes, I've been told that over and over again, I honestly originally thought there was no difference, there is a Big difference in quality & pride of workmanship between the 2 countries.
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My two cents is this, if there is a tool that I want, and there is two to pick from,
one is from China and the other is from Taiwan. I go with Taiwan. Precision and quality
are better than China.
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I've been told variable speed is favorable.
Don Favell had a Chaublin 102 lathe that I believe had a 3 phase motor that he had wired to some adapter circuitry to let it run on 115 volts giving him excellent speed control.
Regarding the Precision Matthews Vertical Mills.... they look great but I don't know much about this equipment.
they are Chinese, with a few models being made in Tiawan. American machine tools are getting much harder to find in good condition without being worn out already, & the Chinese are making old machines somewhat obsolete it would seem. I love my South Bend lathe & Taig mill, but I've been outgrowing them for a while now. I'm still looking at Facebook marketplace daily for some lovely old American iron.
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I've been told variable speed is favorable.
Don Favell had a Chaublin 102 lathe that I believe had a 3 phase motor that he had wired to some adapter circuitry to let it run on 115 volts giving him excellent speed control.
Regarding the Precision Matthews Vertical Mills.... they look great but I don't know much about this equipment.
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This is a dedicated machinist type thread , we encourage everyone that has an interest in machining, A skill in machining. Or just a curiosity about machining to participate & join in with tips, suggestion & machinist technical support & knowledge about this art.
This should be interesting.
I myself am right now considering which Precision Mathews vertical mill I want, it's between the PM727 & PM727V (variable speed motor) and the PM932 much bigger and heavier & 220V
https://www.precisionmatthews.com/product-category/millingmachines/benchmills/
Is variable speed motor much better than geared motors ?
I have been totally immersed in "blondihacks" machinist videos, these are great for the beginner, and she has a whole series on basic lathe operation. 😊
https://www.youtube.com/blondihacks