Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
The Regular Stuff: Chat, Buy, Sell, Off Topic, etc. => General Discussion - Model & Toy Steam Engines – Stirling Cycle – Flame Lickers – Small Antique Originals => Topic started by: komet163b on August 28, 2024, 02:07:20 pm
-
That is really NICE Wayne ...... really NICE indeed!!!
-
The latest from video Brooklyn....
All buttoned up and running like a champ.
Six volts is PDG for this old engine w/dynamo.
I've heard they often have weak magnets - not this one!
Anyone have the proper gauge for this engine? If so
I'd love to come to an arrangement that will put it on
this engine.
https://youtu.be/LldrONEjnyY
Happy steamer,
Wayne
-
Nick....I was amazed when I saw my bid held. I had actually bid higher.
Perhaps others noted the electrical cord and did not want it for that
reason. I did not notice the cord, but it would not have stopped me from
bidding. So far, perhaps my best deal to date. I added a semi-clear photo
of the dynamo terminals. The one on the right needed adjusting, the one
on the left grounds to the frame.
The first step to fixing the heater problem requires de-soldering the
steampipe to free up the boiler. It will take a while to develop the
nerve to do so. At least it is soft soldered.
Having fun so far,
Wayne
-
Reasonable purchase? The dynamo alone is worth twice what you paid, even after the auction fees 😜 I was so mad when I realized I missed the auction by a couple minutes, but now I’m glad I get to see it again!! Well done!!
-
After some more tinkering I was able to get power out of the dynamo.
Just an adjustment to the armature contact, some compressed air,
and I had nearly four volts. I've added a video. I loosened the
oiler cap, too. Now, just the pressure gauge, and the big one 'The
Heater' to go.
https://youtu.be/AVMqEjUvBEk
I'm done,
Wayne
-
FYI - the plug is not special ala 4117-8. Just a two-pronged plug .
The idea of an upside-down steam dome seems natural, but not really because
it needs at least one inch of straight wall before curving over to make a
dome. This 'under boiler' extension is about two inches deeper than the
boiler. If I can get it opened up I can source band heaters, a solution I
used at least three times on an Elektro and two Empires (Play Boy and B31)
engines.
It is good to hear the steampipe is soft-soldered. I'll probably think about
it for a long time then jump in with both feet and disconnect it.
As to the dynamo - I'll have my studio-tech buddy check it out. I can run it
easily with the engine on air and use a multi-meter for diagnosis.
One thought - Since it is AC (probably), could I test it by wiring it to my MARX
train transformer? It is AC, 0-15volts and would be a very easy test. I think it
ought to run.
Wayne
-
I have no answers for you, but I do want to congratulate you on what will no doubt end up being a great acquisition.
Heck, it even still has its chimney ...... how rare is that!?!? ;c)
haha - its not the chimney - the rare is the power line with the plug.
the dynamo is rare too even if it has no power it is still nice to look
at it. It is complete as far as I can see - congrats
hope you can fix the heating proplems.
Arnold
see my post: mamod steam forum
-
I have no answers for you, but I do want to congratulate you on what will no doubt end up being a great acquisition.
Heck, it even still has its chimney ...... how rare is that!?!? ;c)
-
I just took possession of a Marklin 4097/6. I've been wanting one like this,
a 'German' boiler/engine with dynamo. I made a video of it running on air, but
a steam run might be way down the road.
The problem is this. It is an electrically powered unit and according to the
ohm meter it is a dead circuit. I've replaced broken heaters on Empires before,
but this one is different. Instead of a belly heater or hotplate burner, Marklin
added a brass(?) tube a bit smaller than the boiler hanging underneath in the middle
of the boiler. When probing, the 'sump' almost reaches to the bottom of the firebox.
When looking in thru the space between the boiler and the smokebox you can see it is
heated by a band heater - or what is left of it. Of course, in a fit of negligent
engineering, the 'filler' hole is directly over the middle of the boiler and heating
band. Big mistake. I can see that water dribbled down the side, probably while filling,
soaked into the heater, and the negligent owner turned it on. I've given away several
engines with belly heaters, and I always recommend being very careful when filling and,
if you think the heater became wet, DO NOT TURN IT ON! Empty the boiler of whatever water
made it in and then let it sit. Maybe, for days. You also could take an aquarium pump and
direct its air into the heater area that was wetted to quicken the drying process.
So, I think I'm capable of making a new heater unit but how to take it apart is the
real question. The power cord goes into the firebox and attaches to a fixture on the
immediate firebox wall. From there, fireproof leads go to the burner. Because of this,
I think the firebox and boiler need to come off as one. Therefore, I'll need to dis-
connect the steam pipe at the valve on the boiler top. On this tactic the question
arises - is it soft or hard soldered. I'm hoping soft.
I've added a link to a you tube run on air. The gauge is another problem but at least
it is easily removable. The dynamo requires more investigation. I presume it is AC. The
cover is a bit loose, a mounting screw was missing and the others loose (maybe it is not
original), and it does not register any output on my multimeter when running on air.
Finally, a small nit. The oil cap is stuck and the little oil-holding cup it screws into
twists as if it is threaded and screws into the steam chest. Is that so?
https://youtu.be/gW-g_UrFdaE
Well, it does run and is complete (I do have the ratty pressure gauge). I just need to get
it opened so I can attack the heater problem and beat it into submission using aftermarket
band heaters.
Saving grace - it was a reasonable purchase from an auction house.
Hoping for some answers,
Wayne