Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
The Regular Stuff: Chat, Buy, Sell, Off Topic, etc. => General Discussion - Model & Toy Steam Engines – Stirling Cycle – Flame Lickers – Small Antique Originals => Topic started by: Timvrip on November 24, 2024, 05:44:11 am
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Have you measured the resistance? I'd be curious.
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I was thinking there would be very little contact with a cylindrical boiler, but "what the heck" it was cheap enough.
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220volts/600watts...doesn't that equate to 110volts/300watts?
Then, you ought to check the resistance - how many ohms?
It is not exact but ohms in the 30's will give about 300-400 watts
(less ohms is more power). If the wattage is anything less than that
it is tricky. Some engines will run w/250watts (A B43 I have runs
on a bit more than 200watts, go figure) but most need more.
FYI - I use cartridge heaters for horizontal boilers and for vertical
boilers band heaters. Heaters from China are not always accurate in
the wattage noted in the description. I have a dud box.
Whatever way you go keep in mind you need to make sure the heating
element can transfer its power to the boiler. Homemade heat-sinks
are a must. A strong naked heating element will burn itself out.
Incandescent, even!
Good Luck,
Wayne
Good Luck
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UPDATE
So, I tried to boil water in a small aluminum pan sitting on the plate. It did produce steam, but only bubbles appeared on the bottom of the pan. It never reached a rapid boil. I doubt it would work well enough underneath a brass boiler. Perhaps if the plate could be bent to the shape of the bottom of the boiler, but probably not.
Anyway, it looks like I might have something to heat water for tea. It was a fun experiment, nonetheless.
[attachimg=1]
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Amazon has similar, one is 400 watt but voltage is vague, is listed as dual voltage, not sure how that works:
https://www.amazon.com/Heating-Soldering-Desoldering-Station-Laboratory/dp/B09JSJ5669/ref=pd_ci_mcx_di_int_sccai_cn_d_sccl_3_2/145-0873245-3126006?pd_rd_w=AGleT&content-id=amzn1.sym.751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_p=751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_r=6SHXH1YKB9SMX18N1FZ6&pd_rd_wg=1g8CP&pd_rd_r=78074d15-2caa-4743-9c73-0b52ff5f2dda&pd_rd_i=B09JSJ5669&psc=1
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I will be patiently awaiting your report back on how well it worked for you. Hoping its all you need it to be. 😊
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Honestly, I wouldn’t have a clue, but the best way to test this before putting it on a boiler is while it’s flat putting a flat thing of water that’s made of metal, preferably something similar to a boiler like copper or brass, maybe you can find a flat brass plate somewhere, so long as every part of the hot plate touches it, put water in it, and see if it boils the water and doesn’t burn out out (blow out)
If it’s an Amazon purchase, returns are pretty easy. If it isn’t Amazon, be weary on your tests. Do not fully trust this until you test it in some way mentioned above.
Perhaps someone else on the forum with more
Knowledge may be able to guide you? Don’t fully take my words of advice for gravy because there are more “seasoned” folks on here.
Just thought it’s a “possible” way of testing it first.
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I went ahead and splurged on one of these PTC hot plates (made for desoldering LEDs) with the hopes that it might be useable and a boiler heater for one of my steam engines.
Here are the specs:
220 volts
600 watts
Heats to 260 C (500 F) in 20 seconds
Measures 4.75" x 2.75"
I'll report back on whether of not it works. If not, it was only 20 euros.
[attachimg=1]