Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
The Regular Stuff: Chat, Buy, Sell, Off Topic, etc. => General Discussion - Model & Toy Steam Engines – Stirling Cycle – Flame Lickers – Small Antique Originals => Topic started by: RichSteamTx on December 13, 2024, 07:17:14 pm
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I got some parts from Weeden.com / Frank - thanks @Weedensteam - little engine is all repaired :-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygiFfMTmGF0
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The best things about grain alcohol over other formulations of alcohol....
JUST DO NOT TRY AN UNDILUTED SHOT! EVER!
When I was a senior in High School, we had a party out at a friend's lake house in East Texas - pretty sure it was the start of our "Senior Skip Day Weekend". I drive up and go straight to a bottle and proclaim "I need a drink and I am not waiting for a glass" (or something like that). I proceed to slam a big swig of it from the bottle and close by friends were trying to tell me "No, Stop!". It was as you might expect, Everclear Grain Alcohol 190 Proof. I thought I was going to die right there. Though it did get me started on a real good buzz (or drunk) ;-)
Side Note: I also fixed the jam box after the batteries died that night and no one thought to bring a cord. I then proceeded to cut a gal's power cord off her hairdryer, stripped the end of wires bare with a butter knife, used some alligator clips & electrical tape I happened to have in my glovebox, a waded up stick of gum from another friend (the gum was to engage the "from battery to power cord switch") and we had jam'n music again. From then on out I was called "Crazy Drunk'n MacGyver"! I am pretty sure it was the "stick of gum" that sent everyone over the edge that night LOL!
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The best things about grain alcohol over other formulations of alcohol....
It is pure.
It is organic.
It has no smell when burning.
Mixed down it cleans well and slows/kills bugs.
It is really good for making punch.
JUST DO NOT TRY AN UNDILUTED SHOT! EVER!
Wayne
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I guess grain alcohol, something like Everclear Grain Alcohol 190 Proof would be better. I didn't think of the "extra" crap that they put in denatured alcohol. Likely cheaper too per liter.
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Good show, Rich! I've used JB Weld (24-hour kind) to seal several
burner cans with reliable results. All of the leaky seams were pretty
small/thin so that might have helped. Also, as previously mentioned,
diluting the alcohol (only grain alcohol, please - the cleanest burning
type) will slow down the likelihood of any aberrant flames.
Good Luck,
Wayne
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Well, I cleaned off the superglue and punted to a bead of JB Weld, which I know can withstand the heat. Shame about the balanced wheel. Even if I found a donor replacement it would be a bear to replace it.
Edit: At the end the engine slowed down, that was because I had used up all the fuel! Prior to making the below video I had gone through a pretty long test run to insure the fuel was staying inside the burner.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpcAW4VCQHc
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Hmm, I didn't think of either of those problems. Likely back to the drawing board or use a alternate source.
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I don't know if denatured alcohol is a solvent for cyanoacrylate or not, but Acetone certainly is. Also, I very much doubt that Super Glue will hold up to the heat that your burner will produce.
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I didn't think of adding any water to my denatured alcohol. That's a interesting tip.
When I looked at the seam under my magnifying glass, perhaps there used to be some sealer between the top/bottom when they crimped it? Or it is some interesting sand like colored dirt in the seam. I think I am going to use a toothpick to lay some superglue all around the seam.
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A couple of possible alternatives would be to either add more water to your alcohol, get a small Bix burner and fire it with gas, or perhaps just a metal jar lid of the proper diameter with some Sterno.
As for the original burner, Alcohol has a way of finding every little imperfection in seams, joints and any other possible leak point. As the burner heats up the alcohol expands and volatilizes actively "looking" for a way out, and once it finds same, it will gladly ignite from the nearby wick flame.
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So I got this #500 off eBay, which is in fairly good shape, other than the balanced wheel is missing a few spokes (others where broken at the hub, I had to glue them). I also don't think the stack is correct because it splits out when its mounted. Perhaps a stack from a different model. I also need to do some more polishing.
Anyways, the burner is giving me fits. It wants to keep burning from the top's seam and makes a big fire inside base and ends up lapping out. Then it ends up lighting the vent line. I have tried different levels of fuel and only if I leave a wee bit in does this not happen but then there isn't enough fuel before I run out. Basically its a hot mess to run. Which before I start getting close to burning down my apartment, the engine runs well.
I think I need to figure out how to seal the top where it crimps onto the base.
Any tips / thoughts? Though I hate to use solder, so perhaps a bead of superglue? Or perhaps I am doing something wrong but what I am not sure.
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