Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
Builds, Repairs, Show Your Machines! => Technical Tips, Builds, and Help => Topic started by: Jim on August 14, 2025, 11:42:41 pm
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Great outcome Jim.
I admire your creativity solving the problem.
Thanks Charlie
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I own these, although I don't use the high powered lens much, these are one of the most used tools in my shop.I always know where they're at.
https://www.amazon.com/your-orders/pop?ref=ppx_yo2ov_mob_b_pop&orderId=114-7617623-5997027&lineItemId=mprlnqhtqmqpony&shipmentId=UsyjPLQvS&packageId=1&asin=B007CDJKM2
That link wouldn't load for me Bruce.
I'd like the gear that my skin specialist has! He's let me play with it a bit.
Yes, Jim is correct. That link takes me to my Amazon orders summary and no product.
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Great outcome Jim.
I admire your creativity solving the problem.
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Thanks Bruce & Gil.
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Very well done, Jim!
I'm glad you got it sorted.
Gil
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Seems you might have sealed it up better when you put it back together, but the condensate usually comes from the gland (well this doesn't really have an adjustable gland) but you did sump'tin right. I've never tried to channel the drips from the rear of the valve, usually not alot comes from it, although...I've seen Jensen cap that end before.
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Has anyone ever devised a collection tube or similar for where the water comes out here? -
[attachimg=1]
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Not sure what I've done, but see those two brass collection 'tanks' that I made, the #20 used to leak like a sieve and I'd empty them often.
Been running it all morning and not a drop of water in either of them since I put it back together after removing that burr.
[attachimg=1]
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I own these, although I don't use the high powered lens much, these are one of the most used tools in my shop.I always know where they're at.
https://www.amazon.com/your-orders/pop?ref=ppx_yo2ov_mob_b_pop&orderId=114-7617623-5997027&lineItemId=mprlnqhtqmqpony&shipmentId=UsyjPLQvS&packageId=1&asin=B007CDJKM2
That link wouldn't load for me Bruce.
I'd like the gear that my skin specialist has! He's let me play with it a bit.
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I own these, although I don't use the high powered lens much, these are one of the most used tools in my shop.I always know where they're at.
https://www.amazon.com/your-orders/pop?ref=ppx_yo2ov_mob_b_pop&orderId=114-7617623-5997027&lineItemId=mprlnqhtqmqpony&shipmentId=UsyjPLQvS&packageId=1&asin=B007CDJKM2
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I've often thought of getting a pair of those, I used to have a magnifying lamp with a ring light built into it....lent it to my son, he liked it better than me!
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Congrats on a tough job well done!
I've done similar to cone the inside of a flintlock flash hole or vent.
You may want to invest in an Optivisor as it gives you a loop for both eyes and is hands free without squinting to hold it in place like a loop requires!
https://doneganoptical.com/product/optivisor/
There are many different sources for these, like most of the standard machinist supply outlets, or even Amazon and the like. There are also quite a few knock-off copycats, but I do like the original and use it all the time!
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Got the #20 back together and its running smooth as a babies backside!
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Daniel I did end up using a burr on the end of a Dremel (Dremel wasn't on, just used it as a handle) -
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
and kept on rubbing the burr back and forth whilst wearing one of these single eye loops -
[attachimg=3]
Took quite awhile and then used some 1000 wet & dry glued on to a small piece of dowel and polished it.
The loop was a PITA to use but made it easy to see what I was doing and magnified what I had to remove magnificently.
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Jim, may I guess that the burr is at the inside top of the crosshead guide channel, as though you drilled and tapped to mount an oiler?
Do you have any hooked dental tools or other similar angled pieces of metal, that will fit down in the hole and impinge on the bottom of the threads you have made?
Other than such a tool as that, then perhaps you can address and dress the very bottom threads in that hole with the very tip of a jeweler's rattail file worked around the hole all the way, being careful not to bugger the threads at the top of the hole any more than can be helped!?!?
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I guess i missed (in the photo) what your talking about ?
I can't take a pic as its too awkward to take Bruce.
I wanted to take that completely apart so I can easily remove the burr that was created, not being able to fully take it apart is going to make that burr removal a lot harder.
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I guess i missed (in the photo) what your talking about ?
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Thanks pards appreciate the help.
I tapped a 2mm hole and have raised a slight brass proud part on the inside where the drill/tap broke through.
I may be able to make up some tool that I can put some abrasive on and delicately take that burr off without dismantling (preferred option now after reading the above responses).
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I called Jensen Mfg. for you Jim, Andy is out until Tuesday, if you don't have it figured out by then I would be happy to call Andy again (on Tuesday) to see if I can get you a manufacturers opinion.
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As a long shot, freeze the whole deal, then real quick like, heat just the piston while putting a load on it to pull it from the shaft. Probably won't work, but it is likely your best chance!
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My suggestion is.....give Andy a call at Jensen.
He is a wizard.
Good Luck,
Wayne
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The piston is a compression fit, not easy to get off the shaft without bending it ever so slightly (which will cause great problems with alignment), but can be done, and then you have the problem of getting it back on (& holding)once piston is removed, the whole business will slide out the open end.
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Gents, I'm in need of your help on how to take this apart (Jensen #20) it has me beat!
Advice appreciated :)
[attachimg=1]