Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
Builds, Repairs, Show Your Machines! => Videos The Office of Steam Cinema => Topic started by: RichSteamTx on September 12, 2025, 06:14:03 pm
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You did a wonderful job with this one, Richard... It looks and runs great! ;D Glad I could be of some help.
Paula
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Big shout out to @Paula for putting a brass sleeve into the governor!! It runs perfectly now - Thank you SOOOO much!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_F_ufsrzEk
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well, I wasn't going to pure out a quart on it, more like a drop and work it into the spring / pins. Though I be sure to keep that in mind and wipe any excess off :-)
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Generally speaking, oil of any kind or quantity is not a good thing to have inside a boiler, so be a bit circumspect about that!
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Ain't that the truth!
I am glad I got that replaced as the old washer literally broke in half when I was trying to pull it apart for the replacement parts. Actually, I think 1/2 of it disintegrated as I couldn't really find it that half! It would have sucked trying to get the bits out of the tank if that hand happen when I was pulling it out or if the washer popped while the tank was under pressure!
The pins are not what you would call in good shape but they should hold until it is someone else's problem. The Stainless Steel & Washer should last much longer than 100 years (pins, doubtful). I'll need to remember to dab some oil on it when I am done steaming it - perhaps that will slow down the rust on the pins.
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If it's not one thing, then it is a couple of few others .... but it looks like you have a handle on it, so that's a good thing!!!
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I needed to repair my pressure valve as the spring broke and the washer disintegrated. I was really worried about the pins coming out of the popper, as they are like two legs of a cotter pin poured into the lead top. I stressed finding a acceptable spring & washer and I found what I needed on McMaster-Carr. As luck would have it, they have a warehouse 20 miles away from my Atlanta Mid-Town apartment and was able to just just pick the parts up! Super-duper score saving on shipping and being able to visit their warehouse (it is HUGE)!
Anyways, here is a picture of it repaired with the original spring on the far left, then the two springs and the washers. I did end up snipping 2~3 turns off the 8969T322 spring.
- I used is the tighter spring and its part number is 8969T322 - 316 Stainless Steel Corrosion-Resistant Compression Springs 11 mm Long, 3 mm OD, 2.280 mm ID
- The washer part number is 98689A243 - 18-8 Stainless Steel Washer for M1.8 Screw Size, General Purpose, 1.98 mm ID
- I didn't use spring 2006N213 - 302 Stainless Steel Corrosion-Resistant Compression Springs 12 mm Long, 3 mm OD, 2 mm ID
[attachimg=1]
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New photo with my brother's donor sight glass shield cleaned up & installed! I also have replaced the broken screw for the back tank strap and replaced a missing nail for the burner tray.
My replaced / newly brass sleeved governor is on the way back to me, should be here on Monday. When that gets in I'll done a final video but already I think this little Bing is looking nicer with that shield in place :-)
[attachimg=1]
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Next fix is in, new 3/4 inch wick stock for the burner tray. I got the wick off Amazon but it actually came from Lehman's Hardware (https://www.lehmans.com/product/34-round-braided-cotton-wicking/) which is a pretty old store in Kidron, Ohio (Amish country).
After cutting three slices up for the Bing' burner try, I have enough left over to last me (and the next owner) a life time! Hopefully the donor Bing will be in tomorrow to get that sight glass cover on!
[attachimg=1]
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I'd simply drill that out to the next common size and sleeve it with K&S brass tubing or equivalent.
In an apartment with like just simple hand tools, not going happen. That said, I have someone lined up to send it to :-)
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I'd simply drill that out to the next common size and sleeve it with K&S brass tubing or equivalent.
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Oh, I figure I should post a photo of the governor bracket's bore next to the detached shaft. I hope I can find someone that might think they could brass sleeve the bore. I have PM'ed @Paula - perhaps she is still around to lend me a hand
[attachimg=1]
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Okay, so I gave a bit more elbow grease getting the pulley off. Then I cleaned it up a bit more, though the real issue is the bore on the bracket. What I did do is have the pulley near the end of the shaft and used red (medium) Loctite to keep it on/from spinning on the shaft.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amzBW9cPbOk
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I just realized that my Bing is missing its front sight glass cover! Boo!!
A "U" shaped channel with a full-length slot down the centerline. for viewing, and flat pads at the ends with screw holes.
As long as you have the backing plate to clamp the gaskets effectively, you should be okay, but the cover does do much to protect the sight glass.
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One more suggestion for you Rich, is that the Bing Works and the Weeden both operate just fine with only two wicks burning and I have always thought that having all three going was unnecessary if not a bit scary! I generally cap off the last wick on the Weeden burner, or on the BW simply don't fill the wick closest to the handle and then don't push the burner assembly quite as far under, so that the two burners that are aflame are well centered under the boiler. Seems to work just fine and not as worrisome in my opinion. On my Weeden burner, a 9mm Luger cartridge with the spent primer still in it seems to fit about perfect to cap that last wick off so it can't burn, while on the Bing Works burner simply not filling that last cup with alcohol is all that is needed.
These are both great looking and unique pieces of operational history and it is wonderful that you so enjoy them!!!
That's a good tip and the Bing likely puts out the same heat on 2 wicks as the Weeden does on two! I also order some 3/4 in cotton wick off Amazon for the Bing. Though to be honest, I love running FULL power! LOL
I also am asking my brother to send me his Bing, actually I think I paid for it when he went and picked up my Weeden Hoisting Drum (it was a package buy). Though he really likes it and wanted to get it running (though doubtful in the shape it is in). So that will get me the missing sight glass cover and hopefully the screw will come loose and be okay.
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I just realized that my Bing is missing its front sight glass cover! Boo!!
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One more suggestion for you Rich, is that the Bing Works and the Weeden both operate just fine with only two wicks burning and I have always thought that having all three going was unnecessary if not a bit scary! I generally cap off the last wick on the Weeden burner, or on the BW simply don't fill the wick closest to the handle and then don't push the burner assembly quite as far under, so that the two burners that are aflame are well centered under the boiler. Seems to work just fine and not as worrisome in my opinion. On my Weeden burner, a 9mm Luger cartridge with the spent primer still in it seems to fit about perfect to cap that last wick off so it can't burn, while on the Bing Works burner simply not filling that last cup with alcohol is all that is needed.
These are both great looking and unique pieces of operational history and it is wonderful that you so enjoy them!!!
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Thanks Guys! Here is my follow up longer video where I compare the #14 to the 70/120 a bit more. Though I had a bit of a calamity, when I was polishing the tank the back brace screw head popped off! I have the remains of the screw drilled out but can't it out. I have order some left-hand drill bits, hopefully I can get it out. Then I need to find a proper screw for the rear brace.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pU1Lf8NAWWM
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Congrats, Rich!
Great to see it come back to life.
The Weeden 14 and your Bing 70/120 are among the most aestheticly pleasing to look at due to their elegant proportions.
Gil
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Congratulations!
You have a runner there with that one now!!!
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Okay, video edited into post 1!
I had a idea, use some of the little Weeden sight glass silicone tubing that I got from Frank for my Weeden's. That actually worked!
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I have some various gasket sheets - fiber/rubber, old school paper and punches. I use that stuff for the Weeden bayonet fittings, I just can't get the bottom sealed (with the stuff I have). The bottom hole was in pretty bad shape and I think I am going to get it as clean as I can.
Here is a photo of the front of the tank, with the old seal and one of the ones I made tonight. Its not quite fiber or rubber, its like both in one. Works wonders on Weedens bayonet fittings. I don't have a punch small enough for the center tube hole, so I had to use a small drill bit. I think I need more rubbery or as you say, try and find some small o-rings. Though I will get some PTV as backup :P
As always, thank you for you tips & advise - it is well received!
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Hardware stores have O-rings, even in Atlanta I suppose and they probably also have rubber sheet, cork, fiber gasket material & etc.
Or perhaps even an old inner-tube might do if you have one of those laying around.
Not trying to dis your efforts but simply pointing out that those old German seals did fine for well over a century, long before the various forms of "goopus", currently available to us, came on the scene!
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Hey Stoker, way to poo-poo my ideas! Though I am learning as I go, I surely would use some o-rings - I have nearly a ton of different sizes when I was doing my Empires and some Weeden's back in Texas. But that stuff doesn't help me here in Atlanta LOL
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That engine certainly appears to be in very nice condition overall.
Those German engines from back in the day commonly had that style of sight glass, and in general it worked well for them. I think your insistence on using some form of modern goop is perhaps not really the best for getting the seal you are after. Most any pliable material that has the proper sized hole, like leather, rubber and some kinds of fiber washers, are likely to squish in as they get flattened by the cover screws and form the seal that you need. These engines are not operating under very much pressure at all, so a super seal isn't really called for ..... at least in my opinion, but YMMV!
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Well, as I fear the Permatex I have on hand isn't going to cut it - its for threads (so great for those little screws). I have a feeling the o-ring kit I have back in Texas would likely have something that would work. So instead, tomorrow morning I'll get some regular Permatex regular RTV to smear around the gasket / glass / divots on the tank.
I dislike messing with this sight glass!!
I guess I should search around the forums on "bing sight glass" too...
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I got this Bing off eBay this past Sunday (it was listed as Weeden) and got it with a offer of $150, I think that is pretty good - plus I been wanting a Bing for sometime now.
I think it is in really good condition and I was going to try and steam it without doing any cleaning. But water starting pouring out of the sight glass, no surprise there! So I pulled the sight glass apart, made some seals out of some of my gasket material and used some Permatex sealant on the tank divots and screws. Need to wait some hours before trying to run it.
I think the box is original? @txlabman / Charlie - thoughts? I am pretty sure the funnel & pan thingy are original to the engine.
Hopefully updating the post with the engine running in a YouTube soon. On the second photo, inside the box where some extra parts - that I believe is for another type of Bing engine (piston and pressure valve).
I also need to get some proper wicks for its burner but I'll likely just use my Weeden #14 burner until I do.
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Edit: Now with a little video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_MJoSb9RH4