Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
Builds, Repairs, Show Your Machines! => Restorations => Topic started by: Nuvolari on March 04, 2019, 09:45:05 am
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Compared with it's arrival, it looks outstanding!
Thank you for the update.
Gil
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Looking good Danny!
Thanks for the update.
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Thank you Danny and keep the updates coming, we want more ;)
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Looking good Danny, keep the updates coming :)
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Any updates Danny?
Sure Nick.
I only need to make a new chimney
But before I show some photos, may I introduce two new employees.
Their names are Fred (left) and Ted.
Rules of employment, no wages, no union and the boss is always right
Their main goal it to give an indication on size and volume.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7902/46817592584_5084e6ce8d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ek7pb9)
Here is the plank Engine.
What was this…
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7903/40307264183_91e3f1f138_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24pPgmK)
is now that…
Starting with a fully restored manometer:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7917/32605747467_bb233bab52_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RFfYKM)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7838/46824647094_30aa18821d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ekJyeC)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7925/46632727245_8a40b57564_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2e3LV9H)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7831/32605747757_3502016bc6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RFfYQM)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7803/32605747747_58c2d0bff8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RFfYQB)
https://youtu.be/8Dj-tzBNhAY
The other EP sits still in parts, but will be restored soon…
Although the boiler is already cleaned and blued again.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40836270583_9161263d3a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25dyywK)
To be continued…
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Any updates Danny?
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It's really impressive how you manage to bring these old wrecks back to beautiful condition! I'm following your restoration.
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Don`t want to spoil Danny`s post i have a larger torch and a blowlamp but like Danny said you have to very careful when dealing with thin brass the one Nick showed i think a touch lower than the one i have but might be worth looking into. At the end of the day it`s the skill in ones hands which Danny has i`m still learning
Regards
RON
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That looks to be a good alternative Nick - my Bernzomatic pencil torch just won't turn down very far getting me in trouble at times.
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Danny, I will have to make a video to show just how fine/soft of a flame it makes, I was very surprised with it and have done quite a few endcaps with it. I also have a Weller pencil torch that I found in a Sears that was closing that was made in Ireland instead of China.
Video now added. As you can see, the flame can be lowered to less than that of the pencil torch but spread out wider for good even heating of the endcap. Not a high-quality production and hard to film both at the same time :D
https://youtu.be/qmTdX2iSHJQ
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Nick I think your torch is a magnificent tool, but too much for a job such as this, to be honest.
You have to be careful, you want to solder, not burn up the structural integrity of your brass.
The plate brass of these old engines is not so thick, so the risk of overheating it and make the brass brittle is great.
It's like hitting a tiny nail with a sledge hammer, the nail will get in, but also a big dent into your wood.
Get one of these burners as I showed, they're cheap and worthwhile the investment.
Cheers,
Danny
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Thank you for that explanation Danny!
Danny
Many thanks for that write up really well explained must admit i have never heard of liquid solder like CBwho i put a thin strip of solder inside and hold it with flux then i used a small pencil torch i think in my case not enough heat because it leaked. Resto going fine i enjoy this type of post
Best regards
RON
Ron, I would highly recommend this Bernzomatic torch (adjustable) for boiler endcaps. You can make a large/wide, yet low powered flame... it's very easy to get it set "just right" for this kind of work.
(https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/8f053c0b-3a36-4721-8d1a-68a200c6e4c8/svn/bernzomatic-torches-tanks-328626-64_600.jpg)
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Danny
Many thanks for that write up really well explained must admit i have never heard of liquid solder like CBwho i put a thin strip of solder inside and hold it with flux then i used a small pencil torch i think in my case not enough heat because it leaked. Resto going fine i enjoy this type of post
Best regards
RON
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I never thought of that liquid solder! I'll have to see if my hardware store carries it.
I also do the steel wool cleaning trick you mentioned, after reading it (maybe from you!), to remove the old solder which leaves a clean thin white shiny area to solder against. Really works!
Sometimes when rigging a joint, I cut a length of solder and place it along the seam with tinning solder flux as stickiness to keep everything in place (along with gravity) basically what Wilesco does with inserts.
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Hi Ron,
Preparation Is the first important step.
Very Important is that the surfaces you're going to connect are clean.
Rest old solder must be removed as much as you can.
You do this with a mini blow torch, as soon as the old tin becomes liquid wipe soft over it with a 000 steel wool, away from the boiler part.
Repeat this until you got nice smooth thin tin film left
Then go over it wit a soft nr.1000 water dipped sandpaper.
But make sure you only sand the seem, not the rest of the boiler.
I tape the rest of, so I don't have to worry while sanding.
If you have a well fitting lid, you must be able to push the lid over the boiler pipe, It not may fall of even if you shake it slightly.
Also cheque the seem between the lid an boiler pipe, there may be no gap, except a tiny gap the where the boiler pipe seem connects to the lid.
I use liquid solder (the kind they use for pluming), I lay a thick creamy layer on the inside of the lid, the corner age.
I clamp the boiler vertically in with the lid hanging or facing down, make sure the boiler seem is faced towards you.
It's of course important that you hold the inside of the lid face up not that the liquid starts running all over the place.
Work clean that's all I can say.
You also need very fine 1mm solder tin at hand.
Very slowly start to heat, in a round motion, with a mini torch, the underside of the lid.
Make sure you're doing this in a well ventilated aria, I don't have to tel you that those fumes are bad for your health.
If all goes well you'll see the solder filling in the gap between lid and pipe, except on the boiler pipe seem crossing.
Take away your torch, the metal is still hot enough to melt tin, so you can take that 1mm tin and melting filling up that smal gap.
Let the seem go cold naturally, do not put it into water.
As to make sure you have a tight connection.
You can seal off all opening except one where you can connect an air hose.
Put the boiler under 1.5BAR pressure, and dip it under water, if you see air bubbles you know that it's not sealed.
But to be honest and with my experience, I never do this, I you prepare well, you don't have to worry.
Important this is what I call a mini torch, and I think next to my lathe, this is one of the most used tools in the repair shop:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4892/40436380703_7e92df38b6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24Be2cD)
Should you have more questions a bout the tools or materials, let me know.
Cheers,
Danny
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Can i ask have you any tips when soldering the end caps i.e. did you tin the boiler barrel or only end caps or both. Is there any way to check it`s not leaking.
Regards
RON
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You are the master at restorations Danny, I've got a whole shelf full that could use someone like you! 8)
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Very nice work Danny.
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Today…
Some ornaments needed to be replicated.
The water lid was missing, chimney holder and the whistle was missing.
Also the safety valve/ manometer, was careful put back together and functions now.
The only thing that I still need to make is a glass and a sitting to put the glass in.
All ornaments where nickeled.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7866/46436775785_e7f5a05274_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dKsBBg)
Also the half rusted base plate Is fully treaded now and reinforced by a second plat under it.
The two are glued together with JB Weld, and where pressed but between a book press, letting it dry tight together and perfect strait.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7859/46436775805_c2acda1090_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dKsBBB)
Next thing will be tackling the motor part…
Cheers,
Danny
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Nice work on the fire house Danny. All coming together nicely now.
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Main focus today was the burner house.
Rust made quite some damage…
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7914/47342203891_7d8b477175_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2f8taQF)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7861/46427295365_351242175e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dJC2pK)
These parts where cut out and new tinplate parts where made and silver soldered in
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7851/46618878594_e20d679850_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2e2xWqS)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7919/46618880294_6a9af4c2ec_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2e2xWWb)
also the top plate of the burner house had some serious damage…
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7822/47342204441_061b3d9b6a_c.jpg)
Again small plates where made and silver soldered in.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2f3Q335](https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7872/47289692512_15c9153804_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2f8tb1a)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7895/47342204941_ab81f9ff1f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2f8tb9M)
Finely everything was rust treated en patinated.
The result starts to look back good again
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7826/47342204431_15aa94db5f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2f8taZZ)
After that the attention went to replicating a new water fill lid, whistle and chimney holder.
These parts are reddy now for nickeling, but that's for next time…
Cheers,
Danny
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Hi Danny nice work on removing the dents from the boiler and inserting the threads.
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Yesterday I took care of that dented thing that suppose to be a boiler.
After taking both end caps away, soldering out all screw treads, knocking out all dents and cleaning it up, it was time for assambly.
First the end caps where soldered back on, then the screw treads back in, name plate on and in to the blueing agent.
Out came a nice boiler again…
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7830/33459472348_69eabc0e01_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SYGxqh)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7901/33459472398_4ae0ce21f4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SYGxr9)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7865/33459472428_f4abf7f9c1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SYGxrE)
Next step I did, is cutting out a 0.25mm thick sheet metal, same size as the strong corroded wafel pattern base sheet plate.
This I now have to blue.
The original wafel base plate, was already cleaned up, and is now sprayed in with Brunox.
Brunox is an epoxy, that stops it of further corrosion.
Also the new sheet will be preventive sprayed in with Brunox after blueing.
Once both sheets are ready, they will be glued together using JB Welt.
This will make the total one strong base plate again.
To be continued…
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I also have a job, that unfortunately I have to go to 
And I took care of the two Empires first, see:
https://www.officeofsteamforum.com/collections-pictures/the-empire-strikes-again/
Cheers,
I agree Danny other things like our jobs do take presidence over ones steam hobby.
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Hi Danny any progress on the restoration mate.
I also have a job, that unfortunately I have to go to 
And I took care of the two Empires first, see:
https://www.officeofsteamforum.com/collections-pictures/the-empire-strikes-again/
Cheers,
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Hi Danny any progress on the restoration mate.
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Looking forward to this restoration Danny "cause I know it will turn out well and I'll learn something from following it - thanks for posting!
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This will be one to follow, surgically dissected for a though restoration.
Look forward to seeing updates😊
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Seeing the first restoration thread from Danny made me grin from ear to ear.
Looks like a great project Danny.
Will follow with interest.
Regards,
Charlie
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Seeing some of your work in the past i know you will make a good job of it
regards
ron
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Looking forward to your restoration of what look like it should be scrapped.
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it'll be very nice when you get finished with "your" touch.
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Wow....that's one 'atomic' resto !
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You are doing it right...taking it down to the last nut, bolt and dent. Look forward to the transformation after a few more days of hard labor!
Roger
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Looking good :)
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Shame about the rusted base, but it's in some of the best hands for restoration! Really surprised that they both still have their governors given their condition... seems like every Plank I end up with is missing part or all of the governor.
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Danny this is going to be another restoration I will be following with interest.
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A while ago I bought a wrack of a "Rapid" EP engine.
It was painted by some previous owner, and severely dented.
When it arrived I noticed that rust also took it's toll.
So one can ask ones self is it still worth while restoring it, in this case, in my view, definitely yes.
The burner is not original, amateur made and broken, so that will be offered to the gods of scrap.
This is how it arrived…
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7903/40307264183_91e3f1f138_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24pPgmK)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7906/46357291065_f2b6da0e33_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dCrez4)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7861/40307264163_e9d7896ef6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24pPgmp)
Next to that one I have a similar smaller model, but in better conditut still in need of restoration.
So both engines will be restored in this tread.
This is the other one…
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7906/46548300204_afc0668bdb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dVjcW5)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7801/46548300084_a8af9bbcde_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dVjcU1)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7858/47219637202_2f06d0c86a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eWCZ2U)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7885/47219637222_23baa2ed02_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eWCZ3f)
So today It was mainly about taking apart the painted one, and stripping it of the paint.
And with taking apart I also mean the boiler itself.
This was necessary to get good acces to the dents and it allows me to put it on my lathe.
This makes it easy to clean it up.
After spending a complete day, although It doesn't look like much but a lot of work was done.
I'm very pleased that the dents went so well out the boiler, and that it cleaned up so well.
I also cleaned up the waffel pattern floor plate and blued it again at least what's left of it.
I you hold it against the light it looks like a map of the galaxy.
I come up with the idea of cutting a second very thin tin plate and glue it with JP Welt against the underside.
This will give it back some structural firmness.
This is how it looks now after a day of work on it.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7800/33395894768_95ba70eb7d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ST5G27)
To be continued…
Cheers,
Danny
PS. you'll find the same restoration on the NOMF (mamod forum)
This will only be for this tread, in the future all new restorations will only be published on this forum