Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
The Regular Stuff: Chat, Buy, Sell, Off Topic, etc. => General Discussion - Model & Toy Steam Engines – Stirling Cycle – Flame Lickers – Small Antique Originals => Topic started by: komet163b on June 23, 2026, 12:08:51 pm
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Magnet.
Duh, why didn't I think of that. Turns out non-magnetic
so it must be bronze.
Boat anchor heavy. Cost more to ship than buy.
'Model Steam East' is a mystery. No web references that I can find.
Work for tomorrow.
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Well, based on the evidence at hand, I would suggest that it was made by some company named ..... wait for it ....... "Model Steam East"!
Never heard of any such company myself, but that may not be too surprising as there is much along those lines that I could relate!?!?
Certainly, it does look like bronze castings from here. Have you tried a magnet on any of it? Does it seem a bit heavy for size? By the look of it, I'd bet money on it being bronze!
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Well, it is a runner...BUT WHO MADE IT and is It bronze?
I removed the engine from the wood base and the underside
of the cast base (9 1/2" by 5") reads 'Model Steam East'.
I added a photo to help.
Any guesses? I tried on the web but it always took me to
'Solar Engines', original and by PM Research. No joy there!
Always hopeful,
Wayne
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Thanks for that nice video of that engine running that is an exceptional looking engine and don't you just love the auto type using the alcoholic word liquor for flame licker!!!!
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My experience with flame liquor engines is you have to use a dry lubricant on the moving parts especially the piston and cylinder regular oils will tend to make the engine no longer run!
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Hooray! All is explained in the youtube description.
Thankfully, the bismuth 'dry lubricant' works well.
So, sometimes you can fuss, fuss, fuss it into submission.
Not a strong runner as it is, but I like it.
(except for when the 'valve' mechanism hangs up)
https://youtu.be/8w66xCG-M4g
Another 'different' runner. A keeper.
Wayne
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Try heating up the cylinder and getting it really nice and hot with a gentle flame.
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Hmmm. Burner position ok? Must experiment with it.
I tried moving the flame around a bit but it did not
seem to make any difference. More flame, less flame,
here and there, all the same. Frustrating as all the
bits seem to work as they ought with no binding. Reminds
me of trying to get a messed-up Empire turbine to run.
What about that adjustable screw on top of the cylinder.
If I screw it in completely the engine will not turn over.
It almost seems like an exhaust valve. Maybe it ought
to have a spring that keeps it down between strokes.
Easy to mod with spring.
Still, I think parts of it are made by a company, not an
at home hobbyist. The flywheel and posts are very nice
as are the base and cylinder. Who made this!
Checking the web for flame-eaters...
Wayne
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Looks like a very interesting engine, but flame lickers being so unbelievably finicky (in my experience anyway) that I really don't know what to recommend that you might want to try!?!?
Position of flame near the port is one of the critical factors, to be sure, and perhaps the burner position ring is not really where it ought to be?!?!
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Good afternoon from a wet Brooklyn
I had a brain seizure and wound up with a flame-licker through Live Auctioneers.
Very cheap but....the shipping and fees were nearly four times what I paid for it!
No surprise. Unfortunately, I missed the rough Empire submarine engine. Asleep
at the wheel. Another steamer on this site was hi-bidder for it and the rest of a
large lot. Life goes on.
Anyway, this engine looks like some parts of it are professionally cast such as
the engine body, flywheel, axle mounts, and connecting rod. The head is definitely
homemade as is the crank throw. The bits-n-pieces all move pretty well.
So, any guesses as to provenance such as design or manufacturer?
There is an adjustable knob at the top of the cylinder that pops up and down
with each stroke. It is not sprung. What is a proper adjustment? Maybe I
just need to fuss till it works. Tightly shut is definitely wrong.
The sliding circular valve-plate moves smoothly against the side inlet port. Its
pressure against port face can be adjusted slightly and when it covers the said port
it seems tight enough to seal.
When rotated it does suck the flame in, but, no joy.
I added some pix.
Wayne