Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
The Regular Stuff: Chat, Buy, Sell, Off Topic, etc. => General Discussion - Scale Model Gas Engines - Hit & Miss - Throttle Governed - Non-Compression – etc => Topic started by: frankclock on November 05, 2019, 06:57:26 pm
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My horizontal chinese hit & miss has decided to stop sparking I think it maybe because spilled fuel has got into the ignition system
As my electrical knowledge is not up to electronic ignition standards either I purchase another original type or fabricate a homemade system using a micro switch & coil etc
any ideas especially with pictures would be very helpfull
thanks
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A search for points and condenser on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=points+and+condenser&crid=20161F26D55ZU&sprefix=points+and+con%2Caps%2C140&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_14
Not sure if you can find mounting for points on timing cam on your engine. But designing a place/cam to use points from atv and other smaller motor setups is what I have been taught. Use cheapest old school coil or spare parts pile. If you have a quality parts guy at local counter and catch him when not busy to peruse points selection for smallest profile.
Let us know if you find something.
Len.
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Another approach is a mounting a hall sensor/magnet circuit if you cannot find a place to mounting points on cam.
Len.
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A points mod video on Ytube…
https://tinyurl.com/yxw7keue
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Video looks like a decent solution for this engine. I do wonder how many cycles these switches a rated for, but they are cheap enough to replace and compatible with the stock ignition circuit.
Len.
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Hi.
I tried the engine with 3V (2xAA batteries)
it works very well and this preserves the electronics
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Thanks to Rodnoc for his video Im not sure if its my hall sensor or ignition box that has failed
Could I please ask how the switch is wired up it appears the red wire is earthed to the body & the other 2 are wired ???
Ill try this idea before I look at alternative ignition
any help much appreciated
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Thanks to Rodnoc for his video Im not sure if its my hall sensor or ignition box that has failed
Could I please ask how the switch is wired up it appears the red wire is earthed to the body & the other 2 are wired ???
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The video belongs to ANTONSTOOM. There is information in the comments below the video which might be of help to you.
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Now, after only 15 accumulated minutes of running time my ET1's spark has stopped. It's either the Hall sensor or potted unit. Rather than fight the dismal OEM electronics I'm going to look for a reliable U.S. made system.
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https://youtu.be/xt8xdo-UsJg
Points, condenser, coil all from local auto parts. Just don't park and listen to the radio with the points closed, lol. Envision the points where the micro switch is in previous video, with a flat spot not a bump.
Len.
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For ignition modules that you can fix yourselves this is the unit i use.
Gil
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1vaWnBMNoQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XaU8gZG51O4
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The ET1 factory supplied Hall sensor/Hv module is very simple, reliable & trouble free ignition system IF user supplied 5.6 volt Zener & 600 volt high speed rectifier diodes are connected across both battery supply and Hall sensor wires Before any connection of batteries or ignition switch power up..These common available semiconductor devices will provide over voltage surge protection to the sensitive low voltage Hall sensor & ignition module components caused by bad grounding or high voltage leakage issues. For whatever reason, these inexpensive devices aren't factory supplied & causes lots of unnecessary ignition system failures.
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Is this a simple wiring set up? One each on both leads?
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Hi Fullrace, are you referring to the simple protective electronic circuit ?
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Yes.
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Hi Fullrace,..my external connected surge protection circuit consist of a standard non-polarized .047 uf > 100 vdc capacitor, a 5.6 Volt Zener diode & a fast Recovery Rectifier diode 600 vdc 1 amp
all of which are wired across the 2 wire Hall sensor wires. The 2 diodes "Cathode" leads should be marked with a black stripe & Must be connected to the + polarity hall sensor wire lead. In the ET1-ETX all silver H&M engines, both sensor wires are black colored & i had to power up the ignition module & verify with a dv voltmeter to determine the voltage polarity. I also wited an identical circuit across the + & - battery holder leads. All Black striped end diode Must be connected to the voltmeter verified + sensor & battery holder wires. The p/n 1N4937 600 volt diode & p/n 1N4734 5.6 volt 1 watt Zener Diode componets are available at Parts Express. I wired my protective circuit up before any ignition spark was activated & powered up with trigger magnet on far side away from the sensor. So far, 30+ engine runs have been factory supplied (black, all potted sealed ignition system trouble free.
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In some all Black color Diode package versions, the "Cathode" wire is identified with a White stripe componet end.
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Excellent, Thank you!!!
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This protection circuit won't fix or repair an already blown or damaged hall sensor or module & is intended to protect & extend the life of a good working sensor-ignition module. As prev mentioned, i added the parts to a new, never been sparked ET1 engine with the upgraded black potted module With dedicated ground wire lead. I carefully power up the unit just long enough to verify the Hall sensor wiring polarity Without sparking the unit. So far all is good but you never know with unknown "black" boxes & >10 kv sparks !!