Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
The Regular Stuff: Chat, Buy, Sell, Off Topic, etc. => General Discussion - Scale Model Gas Engines - Hit & Miss - Throttle Governed - Non-Compression – etc => Topic started by: RobA on January 19, 2022, 05:02:48 pm
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I just got this new Enjomor model. I got it running by using a starter pulley/rope pilfered from one of my Eachine models. It is a hit and miss, but it hits many times and revs up before it starts to miss. This is mainly due to the governor, mounted on the camshaft, which runs at 1/2 the flywheel speed. Adjusting the mixture dosent make much difference. After changing the timing from 0° to 18° btdc and moving the latch out arm closer to the exhaust pushrod, it will hit-miss cycle around 16 times a minute. Observations:
-great looking model
-flywheels and spokes are made of stainless steel
-flywheels are held on to crankshaft with 4 bolt clamps; no grub screws
-oil cups for cylinder and main bearings
-main bearings are bronze bushings with “4 bolt” caps
-mechanical points ignition that triggers a 3 AA battery electronic module
-pushrod has no roller; runs directly on cam
-gov. weights have no springs; tension is by latch-out arm spring (increasing wear on collar)
-muffler has 2 of the 4 holes plugged; may decrease power?
-valves and valve seat/guides are brass in an Al cylinder head.
-governor runs at 1/2 engine speed, reducing its sensitivity
From the factory it has a very different “hits & misses” operation, see video. It will be interesting to see if anyone can get it to just hit once like most other h&m engines. Or just enjoy its unique operation.
video:
https://youtu.be/g5X5lq-iOVw
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That is a good-looking engine. except for the flat head wood screws holding the base to the wood skids.
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It will likely improve the firing cycle if you clamp it to something rock solid.
It is a pretty neat looking miniature copy of the 1 1/2 hp Olds hit and miss engine.
I plan to order one after we are firmly planted in the new Office of Steam. This is moving time!
Here is a video of a former resident at the Office of Steam....
A 1/2 scale model of the Olds 1.5 hp. (I believe the new miniature may have the same governor set up and is capable of running slower and should be fun to dial it in)
Gil
https://youtu.be/0Le4-hKfPVM
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I'm not sure it’s capable of running slow. The engine appears to have a short stroke, and the design of the governor seems a bit wonky.
https://tinyurl.com/z8mecfk9
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The governor is much like the original it was modeled after but without adjustments.
You may be able to work around this by using a softer spring on the latch-out lever.
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The governor is much like the original it was modeled after but without adjustments.
You may be able to work around this by using a softer spring on the latch-out lever.
I think Gil has hit the nail on the head, I found this video on YouTube and you will see the owner has to put his finger on the latch out arm to even Get his engine to miss! His finger pressure is effectively cancelling out "some" of the the "to strong" spring effect.
What I like about this video is the guy is very familiar with the previous model we all know and love, He makes Several attempts to stall his new engine when he see it is not properly missing and says "Wow, this has a LOT more power than the older model!
The 1/2 governor speed is not helping, so larger more heavy governor weights would help, there may not be clearance room for larger weights so polish all moving contact parts to reduce friction in the governor may help a little.
I would go as light as you can on the return spring, possibly even wind your own spring out of a thin guitar spring.
When you mount the engine Very secure so it can not rock, when the engine fires, it puts "More" of its energy into spinning the flywheels so it is more efficient at getting them up to speed. The engine hitting several/many times before the governor finally does its job is a symptom of the overly strong spring.
It looks like they got several other things right on this engine, I might enjoy tuning on it if I can find one priced well! :)
https://youtu.be/WBdKBCYli-o
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This one still "Hits" more then 1 time, but it seems like it runs a bit slower and better than the others I have seen. I think there is potential for improvement here.
https://youtu.be/6rux8ezS_0E
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One other thing I noticed is that the crank/flywheel assembly is not balanced. I will try to balance it, at least statically, by drilling some holes in the side of the flywheels, similar to what is done in full scale engines. This should smooth it out, at least the up and down motion.
Also will try to get the power of the hits higher with more dialing in and running time.
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One other thing I noticed is that the crank/flywheel assembly is not balanced. I will try to balance it, at least statically, by drilling some holes in the side of the flywheels, similar to what is done in full scale engines. This should smooth it out, at least the up and down motion.
Also will try to get the power of the hits higher with more dialing in and running time.
The guy from the first video reported more power after he hand lapped the valves in, if you go to his channel there is a how to video on this exact engine. His method is quite simple and easy thing to do. I believe he used "whitening formula" toothpaste for lapping compound, there is a mild abrasive in this kind of toothpaste and cleans up well with warm water.
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I too found the intake valve leaking. I saw his vid about lapping the valve but I used a different method. I removed the keeper and spring from the valve stem and clamped it into the chuck of a small hand drill. I could move it off its seat occasionally as it rotated to redistribute the lapping compound. I tried Brasso but found 800 grit lapping paste worked better.
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The governor is much like the original it was modeled after but without adjustments.
You may be able to work around this by using a softer spring on the latch-out lever.
I think Gil has hit the nail on the head, I found this video on YouTube and you will see the owner has to put his finger on the latch out arm to even Get his engine to miss! His finger pressure is effectively cancelling out "some" of the the "to strong" spring effect.
What I like about this video is the guy is very familiar with the previous model we all know and love, He makes Several attempts to stall his new engine when he see it is not properly missing and says "Wow, this has a LOT more power than the older model!
The 1/2 governor speed is not helping, so larger more heavy governor weights would help, there may not be clearance room for larger weights so polish all moving contact parts to reduce friction in the governor may help a little.
I would go as light as you can on the return spring, possibly even wind your own spring out of a thin guitar spring.
When you mount the engine Very secure so it can not rock, when the engine fires, it puts "More" of its energy into spinning the flywheels so it is more efficient at getting them up to speed. The engine hitting several/many times before the governor finally does its job is a symptom of the overly strong spring.
It looks like they got several other things right on this engine, I might enjoy tuning on it if I can find one priced well! :)
https://youtu.be/WBdKBCYli-o
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Great minds think alike! Polishing the friction surfaces on the weights and gear was my other thought.
I also would like to order one of these after we get settled with our move.
Gil
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When I removed the piston I found that the piston wrist pin was a floating design; it can slide freely side to side until it hits the cylinder wall. Which it did and was starting to score it. The Eachine engines have the same problem.
My solution is to insert a couple of plastic disks at the ends of the wrist pin. Easy to do on the Eachines but you have to shorten the pin a bit on the Enjomor to fit the disks in. Check your cylinders for scoring!
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The best price (I) have seen currently on this engine is $349 with and 8-10% coupon brings the total to aprox $315 shipped. I don't think this is bad for what you get....but confess I have (3) of the previous version's all purchased for about 1/2 this amount (pre Covid)
I don't "need" a 4th engine, but like the style and upgrades and method of holding flywheels on. I have not ordered much since Covid price spikes, if anyone knows of a vendor with a bit better pricing? I would be Greatful to learn of them! Thanx
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Update: $254.95 is the new best price to beat.
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Bonjour,
I like Hit & Miss engines and bought several to Mirocosm. I am not a mechanic and prefer buying an engine Ready To Run.
This one would interest me but on the videos shared in this topic; it seems not "Missing" and running very fast.
Do you think it a recurring problem in the design of the governor in particular ?
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Bonjour,
I like Hit & Miss engines and bought several to Mirocosm. I am not a mechanic and prefer buying an engine Ready To Run.
This one would interest me but on the videos shared in this topic; it seems not "Missing" and running very fast.
Do you think it a recurring problem in the design of the governor in particular ?
Yes, I believe the governor design is not large diameter and has more international friction and to strong of springs and spins at half speed of an ET1 model. All these could hold it back from peak performance.
Other than the "governor" itself, almost every other part of the engine has been improved in my humble opinion.
I believe with the "stock" governor it will be difficult to equal a well tuned ET1....having said that, Every version of these engines CAN be improved.
I believe for many, it is the "tuning" part that can be so satisfying, taking an affordable engine and making it run more like it's full size brother.
Others just want it to be perfect right out of the box, the most widely available version of the Enjomor is really a "kit" and the buyer must hook up the wires and make a "base".
There IS a "ready to run" version with a wooden base, but it is not widely available yet. The RTR version still has the fast run issues.
If you like the engine, but not the way it runs?...it may be wise to wait for some time until several talented persons (like many on this forum) have tuned the Enjomor version. If you like the way there engines run, perhaps one of these tuners could ship you the parts or you could ship your new unfired Enjomor to them for a tune job. It remains to be seen if some clever person can beat a Well tuned ET1 for slow run hit and miss performance, but I believe the Enjomor is worthy of being tuned IMHO.
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This is what the "ready to run" version looks like. The base is solid wood vs the very thin wood box base we are familiar with. The bottom is neatly milled out just enough to "nest" the electronics...a nice option for those with no desire to build a base or cart.
[attachimg=1]
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Update: I have ordered the red version in "kit" form, but also found the pre milled solid wood base sold separately for approx $15
I hope the Chinese New Year's celebration will not dramatically affect my shipping!
I am sure it will take a while, but I will report back if I have any success tuning this model. :)
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Bonjour,
I will follow this adventure with a great interest, especially if assembling it does not require expertise.
When I ordered in China, I regularly had to wait for more than 10/15 weeks to get my purchases, that learnt me to become more patient ;)
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For anyone interested: this is what the underside of the pre milled base looks like.
[attachimg=1]
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And...hopefully the video in this link will show up, it can be seen in this video how the electronics are intended to be packaged in the wood base.
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1005003754644590.html?spm=a2g0n.detail.0.0.4b7c2cb9pLKUTX&gps-id=platformRecommendH5&scm=1007.18499.255037.0&scm_id=1007.18499.255037.0&scm-url=1007.18499.255037.0&pvid=e539e809-0ca8-411a-8f85-3fa09ae03779&_t=gps-id:platformRecommendH5,scm-url:1007.18499.255037.0,pvid:e539e809-0ca8-411a-8f85-3fa09ae03779,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238115%232000&pdp_ext_f=null&pdp_pi=-1%253B343.05%253B-1%253B-1%2540salePrice%253BUSD%253Brecommend-recommend
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Bonjour,
With this link I would pay it about 420 USD :( I would like to find a quite better offer !
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This is a bit better offer, but no wood base at this price point....they do go on sale from time to time.
You can also order "spare" parts such as the wood base, ignition switch or flywheel all sold separately on the first link....you click on the photo of the part you are interested in and it will show the price.
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1005003308407350.html?_randl_currency=USD&_randl_shipto=US&src=google&memo1=freelisting&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=631-313-3945&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbActive=false&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=14259519553&albag=&trgt=&crea=en1005003308407350&netw=x&device=m&albpg=&albpd=en1005003308407350&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvKG67rPN9QIVhYNbCh3BxQVXEAQYAiABEgIY1PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&aff_fcid=17575125cc394ba1a08543958723d6a6-1643130987589-06408-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=17575125cc394ba1a08543958723d6a6-1643130987589-06408-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=9a727458a93a454ea87e396c6c447ed1
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That was a great opportunity, thanks for the lik but, bad luck for me, the system recognizes I am living in France when I start paying and the price becomes... 470,00 USD :(
And the previous offer becomes 570,00 USD !!!
I guess France is not a valuable market for them or the shipping is more difficult than for USA...
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Re,
For information, this item is also listed on Amazon at more reasonable price but seems not to be in stock anymore :(
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I have grown to like the unique running of this engine, but look forward to the tweaks the experts will come up with.
I drilled some holes in the flywheels to better balance the crank/flywheel assy, and it did run smother but not by much. You can see the 3 holes around the 1:00 position in the photo.
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I have grown to like the unique running of this engine, but look forward to the tweaks the experts will come up with.
I drilled some holes in the flywheels to better balance the crank/flywheel assy, and it did run smother but not by much. You can see the 3 holes around the 1:00 position in the photo.
I like your black flywheel spokes with the red engine.
Can you confirm if the oil cups are functional or just for looks?
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Yes the oil cups are functional, but the cylinder cup is so far back that its not very effective. Best to put some oil in your fuel.
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Bonjour,
Great news ! Thanks to Jon ;) who gave me the email address of Mona, I have been able to order one and furthermore with a reduction code !
And better, I am allowed to share it with the members of this forum, this code is... "RAPHAEL" ;D
I will be happy to share with you this new experience in a video as soon as I receive it, quickly I hope.
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Some suggestions on your first startup Raphael when you get your engine.
Use the factory settings; the carb needle should be around 1 turn open. After it warms up you can close it a bit to around 7/8th turn closed.
Use a pulley and rope starter if you have one. I actually have never been able to start my engine by hand flipping the flywheels.
Preheat the engine cylinder head with a hair dryer and hot water in the hopper.
Good luck and let us know how it goes. This is a different little beast!
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Bonjour,
Thank you for these useful suggestions, I will be sure to share my experience with a video ;D
About a pulley, I have none but I hope I will be able to use my little drill, especially if I can use the Mirocosm tips I already have.
Let's wait and see...
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Bonjour,
Great news ! Thanks to Jon ;) who gave me the email address of Mona, I have been able to order one and furthermore with a reduction code !
And better, I am allowed to share it with the members of this forum, this code is... "RAPHAEL" ;D
I will be happy to share with you this new experience in a video as soon as I receive it, quickly I hope.
Hello, can you specify just what online store the code is good for? Thank you!
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Bonjour,
At the payment level, the system asked me if I had a reduction code, I put "RAPHAEL" and got 10 % off without any additional shipping cost to France.
And, as I evoked this forum as source of my request, it is available on all the site for the members of this forum even if I did not tested it after my purchase ;D
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Hello, can you specify just what online store the code is good for? Thank you!
"Mona" is at stirlingkit.com
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Thank You.
So glad you found an engine without heavy payment for shipping to France.
My engine is coming from Aliexpress and I checked in on my order today (not yet shipped)....there is a notice on Aliexpress that the Chinese New Year celebrations will begin on Jan 31 and go for some time and to expect delays of more than a week added to standard shipping times.
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Bonjour,
On my side, I have received a message from StirlingKit that my order is confirmed and that it would be shipped by Yun Express.
We will see if Yun is faster than Ali ;D
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I read on one of the Stirlingkit/enginediy fb pages that their entire operation would be closed for the holiday for two weeks starting now. The manufacturing and distribution ends combined are several hundred people who are aching to go home, many for the first time since Covid. I’ve got one paid for and not shipped yet myself…..
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Bonjour,
Mine has left China yesterday and the Yun tracking number I was given is no longer available, quite useful to follow it now >:(
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Hello, Raphael. I expect it will arrive in due course, perhaps before we mow grass again, har!
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I received a notice from Stirlingkit saying they will be back on February 7th after the Chinese New Year. Their site still seems to be accepting orders during the holiday.
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Aliexpress has a similar notice posted.
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Bonjour,
Great news, my package is already arrived, about only 3 weeks after my order ;)
Here it is, as received without any visible issue, a good compression at this moment and already two questions:
As I hope you can see it at 1'58", the push rod connected to the regulator shows a gap of about 3 mm with the exhaust valve, is it normal, too much (I can set it normaly)? what spacing would you recommend ?
How much should I open the carburator needle valve ?
And a little concern, no user guide, even if the previous videos has helped me to understand all the connections.
Never mind, I can't wait to test it!
https://youtu.be/IgDtdN8aCS0
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For an exhaust valve .004" (.10 mm) should work.
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You got lucky. Your package shipped before holiday for workers in China.
As to the exhaust valve, so long as the valve fully closes with slight clearance when not opened, about 0.5 to 1.0 mm should be ok. See that the rocker doesn’t get tight when hot.
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Bonjour,
First test...
I use SP98 gasoline with a drop of 2-stroke oil like all my other Hit & Miss engines, I have a nice spark at the plug and normal compression, yet I can't get the slightest backfire. .. Needle adjustment of the tiny carburettor is hellish and the lack of a launch system makes the job even more difficult. To be continued...
If you have one, how does it start ? how opened is the needle opened ?
https://youtu.be/gz-Os9-RMZg
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1 - Is the atmospheric intake valve opening? It could be sticky.
2 - It doesn't appear that the exhaust valve is opening much. A wide gap affects valve timing.
3 - Pull the plug and see if it is wet. If so, and you have a compressor, blow out the compression chamber and plug to dry them.
4 - Reset the carb needle to 1/2 turn open (I'm guessing for that engine). If no start, adjust carb needle 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn until you get ignition.
It's all about fuel, compression, and spark. It seems to have compression and for sure there is spark, so the culprit is fuel.
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I know its frustrating, but it is rare that these engines start on the first attempt.
"Some suggestions on your first startup Raphael when you get your engine:
Use the factory settings; the carb needle should be around 1 turn open. After it warms up you can close it a bit to around 7/8th turn closed.
Use a pulley and rope starter if you have one. I actually have never been able to start my engine by hand flipping the flywheels.
Preheat the engine cylinder head with a hair dryer and hot water in the hopper."
Also your fuel tank may be too low. Set it at the same level as the bottom of the engine.
That was a good test of your ignition. Did you notice if it fired at around top dead center? And always be sure you ground the spark plug wire or connect it to the spark plug. If it is not connected to something when it fires, it over stresses the ignition circuit and can destroy it. Good luck!
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Bonjour,
I have never been able to start my Hit & Miss engines the first time either! As the spark is fine, plug not wet, ground screwed on the engine, timing seeming correct, you are right, the issue is the gasoline.
The needle was open about 1/4 turn and I did not heat the cylinder.
Besides this, I have no pulley and would not know where to fiw it on the flywheel, there is no dedicated hole, I have to find something with my drill and a piece of rubber for example.
I guess it would be more bland if everything was too easy... I guess ;D
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You need to open the needle at least 1 turn. A bit more if you don't preheat the carb and cylinder.
Don't you have a pulley on one of your other Chinese engines? The crankshaft shafts are the same sise so they will fit right on. But you have to move the right side flywheel in. Loosen the four screws on the flywheel clamp about 2-3 turns. Use a small screwdriver (flat blade, - ) to pop the two halves of the clamp apart. Then you should be able to turn and move the flywheel in. That will give you enough room to mount the pulley
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Don’t know if Ron Walters is in this forum but he made a flywheel-glove type widget for starting mini engines. Maybe it will give you some ideas.
https://tinyurl.com/yckzcud8
https://tinyurl.com/2p97m56f
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My one starts all the time by flipping the flywheels by hand. Had no problems at all and that was straight from the box
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My one starts all the time by flipping the flywheels by hand. Had no problems at all and that was straight from the box
Take a picture of the needle valve setting. You’ve hit the lottery with that one. If it ever goes out of adjustment, you’ll know where it was.
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Bonjour,
Second test, a little explosion when I launch it then... Nothing despite alot of needle positions tests :(
https://youtu.be/sAN_8lM0O2E
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Answers to Questions About ENJOMOR 6cc Antique Red Hit and Miss Gas Engine
https://www.stirlingkit.com/blogs/news/answers-to-questions-about-hit-and-miss-engines
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Update: My engine order from Aliexpress just shipped so the New Year's party must be drawing to a close and people are starting to get back to work.
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I’m seeing signs that at least some of their people didn’t take the second week of holiday. The first week is a national holiday, more or less mandatory. The second week depends on the employer. The good folks at enginediy.com are reporting that they’re working on some projects this week.
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Update: My engine is in the airlines hands at this time, possibly a week yet.
In the mean time I enjoy watching others discover the difference of how this new model is built.
The video found on YouTube is interesting, this guy's engine was delivered with a non working governor, he has it working now though not as well as would like.
The other interesting thing is he says the new cylinder liner is no longer stainless but some type of mild steel that will rust if plain water is used for cooling.
Also his engine starts well but gets tight as it heats up? I suspect his engine could benifit from a bore polish but difficult to say from just watching the video.
Also I found a different video where a guy had significant cylinder bore scoring from the wrist pin (old model) is this a common issue? I have considered tapping a set screw from the rear of piston (to keep wrist pin centered) if wrist pin scoring is a common issue...but there may be better ways to address this?
Thought I would share the video as this is one of the best ways to learn about these engines.
https://youtu.be/kO6M5LNQRaM
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Bonjour,
Third test:
https://youtu.be/-hOaOynzkw4
My feed back in the comments of the video ;)
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Congratulations on getting your nice little engine sorted.
I can see with how easy it now starts that you have achieved a good state of tune. Also with the engine base firmly clamped down it runs better then allowing the engine to hop around.
My Enjoymor has cleared customs, so I expect it to be delivered in a few days.
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My engine (kit) came today, everything that is needed (Except screws) is supplied.
I will need:
4 wood screws to mount engine
2 wood screws to mount battery box
1 metric machine screw to mount fuel tank.
Solder supplies to wire on/off switch.
All the screw holes are pre drilled, if I left the on/off switch out, I believe I could try to start it in under 20 minutes. I will use the on/off switch and have an idea for a simple oil drip pan as the engine cast base has a slot, and the oil drip pan may help keep stray oil from contaminate the electronic's in the wood base. I will post more after I get it assembled and running, it seems to have more compression than the M90
[attachimg=1]
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Here it is assembled, I hope to build a cart for it eventually, but this should be a decent test base, the solid wood base is much more sturdy than the soft wood box we are use to on M90 and similar engines. I did use a wood chisel to make some clearance for wires but in the end not much wood was removed. I will tidy up some of the wires but not going to get fancy on this temporary base.
You may see a shallow tin oil drip pan under the red engine casting and between flywheels...a tobacco can lid or air rifle pellet tin lid works nicely, I will inlay a small coin size magnet in the wood base to hold the pan in place, pan could possibly be slide out to empty. You can order this engine pre built with this base RTR, I saved a few $$ by purchasing as "kit".
I hope to try to run the engine tomorrow.
[attachimg=1]
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Update:
Much to my delight, the engine started on the Very first flip, but stalled after a second. I thought it was to rich but after 2-3 attempts it was actually to lean. It likes to be quite rich (starting) then leaned out some after a minute of running. My engine ran very well for about 6-8 minutes and the governor functioned quite well....then the engine started hitting all the time and sounded like it was working under load.
I shut it down and held the exhaust valve open and rolled the engine over by hand and can feel I now have some internal drag, it feels exactly like the gentleman on YouTube was speaking of on his engine, when he removed his piston he found his stock o-ring was poorly molded and had a lip on the parting line. He changed out to just a standard black Buna o-ring of good quality and his engine now runs Much better!
I will open my engine and inspect my piston o-ring to see if I have the same issue.
The photo shows I have my engine wood base clamped in a vise, it is Much better adjusting fuel mix with the engine firmly clamped.
The photo is outside after dark and rather over exposed, it shows the engine as very bright red, my engine is not Burgundy but much darker red color than the photo.
To be continued....
[attachimg=1]
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Update:
.... have some internal drag....
(Attachment Link)
Fwiw, the o-rings in my engines seem to create more compression with less drag when I mix one part Marvel oil with 35 parts low-octane gasoline. I've tried motor oils, ATF, and 2-stroke oil and got some drag.
The ratio works well with Naphtha, too, but there is less energy (a softer bang) with that fuel.
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I was running Zippo (naptha) with only about 4 drops of Marvel oil per tank...it might be not a strong enough mix? But I suspect I will find a low quality o-ring.
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Update:
I did have a very low quality o-ring in my engine, I can see AND feel a pronounced rib/lip on the OD/ID of my o-ring. The cyl bore is bright and shiny but my aluminum piston showed very light scuff marks.
Of Note: this piston is raw aluminum, my M90 has some sort of clear hard anodized surface.
I have some better quality (hopefully) o-rings coming Tuesday.
While waiting for new o-rings, I just can not help but experiment! One of the slight disappointment with the Enjomor is the piston rod does Not have bronze bushings, I pulled the head on my M90 as I was curious if I could swap pistons into Enjomor, sadly Enjomor is 20mm bore and M90 is 22mm bore BUT the M90 rod will fit Enjomor with slight mods, I had to sand the big end bronze bushing flush with aluminum Rod and chamber bushing, but then it will bolt right into Enjomor. The bushed rod is 3mm Shorter, so this will de-tune the Enjomor quite a bit (lower compression) but this may help slow the engine. If I don't like it, I can always bush the Enjomor rod later.
Photo shows the size differences of the 2 rods and what the piston ring looks like, If I twist the o-ring you would be able to see the seam/flaws on the ring.
To be Continued...
[attachimg=1]
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Good Day Gents
I am new here and wanted to first say hello to everyone and thanks for all the great info.
I received my little Enjomor a few days ago and put together a base for her.
I decided to go with a single 18650 cell at 3.7 volts for ignition, works great.
I am running Coleman Naphtha and Marvel Mystery Oil, 100ml to 3ml mix
I opted to use silicone spray lube only on the governor and light sewing machine oil on all other bearing surfaces.
To start this particular engine - open needle valve 1/2 turn bring her to compression choke with your finger
and give her a crank by hand
- turn needle valve to one turn open and crank again no choke and she usually fires
right up.
This is a great little engine, very scale looking , I have managed to slow her down to about 3 to 4 hits before the governor engages by using a guitar string to make a lighter spring.
I am going to try a smaller gauge guitar string to make a lighter spring to try to get her to slow down a bit more.
Overall I am very impressed with this little engine and the fine tuning and experimentation is the fun part.
Take Care
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Very nice base! Did you stain the wood?
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Very nice base! Did you stain the wood?
Thank You
Yes I did stain the wood and then finished with a coat of teak oil
Take Care