Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines

@komet163b - yes it is - glad you like the progress!  The only part that didn't come from your donor is the little pump base :-)

You have been super cool by sending not one but two shipments of parts.  I have been gathering various parts of a later pressed steel Empire engine to send back to you, for you to build out or for spare parts.  I also need to find that darn box of Weeden engine parts too that I have promised you.

Hi Rich,

Thanks for the video! It's been fun watching your progress in getting this engine going again. Color doesn't look too bad to me -- maybe a little on the blue side -- but not bad at all. Was glad I could help you out with the fittings.

I use Loctite 542 on threaded fittings, and it rarely lets me down. You need something that won't extrude out of the thread under heat. And it needs to be a good mechanical joint. Shake the bottle before using, wipe off any excess, and let it set up overnight. The fittings can be removed normally later on, but the 542 crystallizes as it cures, and can be a bit of a pain to remove before resealing the joint.

Happy steaming, my friend!

Paula

Thanks @Paula couldn't have finished this little resurrection without you kind services!  So far the blue Loctite is holding, I'll put on my list to get some 542 on hand.

Sadly the sight glass snap inside the elbows, likely if it let it soak over night it would have.  The sight glass OD was 4.43mm / 0.145in.  I bought 4mm glass tube long ago, so I wasn't to worried.  The little problem I had was it actually measured out to have a OD of 3.5mm, so nearly a 1mm swing.  I corresponded with a source and was told their 4mm tubing has a +/- 0.35mm tolerance.

So my ZerksPlus High Temp Silicone Tubing wouldn't hug my "4mm" glass.  Now these glass tubes don't float between their fittings like later models, they are like the older iron base models where the glass tube slides into the elbow.  So my mind with to o-rings like I use for those.  While I have 3x1mm O-rings that the ID was prefect, the OD not so much.  So I have two types of seals with opposite problems.  My solution was to use both!  I used two 3x1mm O-rings on either side and then cut my ZerksPlus High Temp Silicone Tubing to ride over the two O-Rings.  Problem solved and I have a water/steam tight seal for the water level sight glass tube!  YAY Me :-)

No other surprises!  Putting this little engine is a bit of like a puzzle with all the straps & screws.

I love the style of this engine, as I expected it is one of my favorites.  Though I can see why they didn't continue the design - I am sure it was costly to produce with the straps.

Interesting points compared to the later design:

• The Wheel's stand-offs don't have brass inserts for the steal wheel shaft.
• The piston stand-off doesn't have a cover for the steam/water holes.  I can see why they added this later as water shoots perfectly onto the boiler/base crack!
• The main base doesn't have a divot.  I can see why they added this later, for water collection.
• I really wished they kept the "rounded" elbow and whistle base (like on the iron based engines) though I'd image they were harder to produce.

ya, IMO the later year ones are all about cost cutting and not so much style (or nickel plating).

5mm is correct for the bare copper Play/Power Boys - mine measure 5.4~5.5mm. 

Rich, looks like a pretty good match to me. Keep in mind that paint has a tendency to fade or darken over time, so matching the original exactly might be a futile exercise.

I really admire the perseverance you've shown with this project.

Paula

Crazy?? Fussing about with old toys is what keeps me sane! [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

now with the wheel painted.  I had to spray some paint on some paper and use a very small/fine brush to touch up around the edge to the finish.  I actually ran out of paint doing this, though I have some more coming via Amazon (along with Clear Gloss that is the same brand).


I probably should took the time to file the spokes down where it has pour edges (I am sure there is a official word for those) but then again it came with them... plus I didn't think about that until I laid down primer ;-)