Office of Steam Logo_1

Author Topic: Project Resurrection: Empire (EMPCO) B43 Strapped Boiler  (Read 8973 times)

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1194
Just for kicks check out this one for sale...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/335034867303


  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 283
  • Have you hugged an engine today?
  • Location: SE Indiana, USA
Not a strapper, but looks to be in very good original condition!
A friend is someone who knows the song in your heart and can sing it back to you when you have forgotten the words.

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1254
  • Location: Kyle, Tx
Ya, its been for sale for awhile now - to pricey.  At that price range I'd want it to be Empire badged with rounded elbows.  I got my pumper and gauger for over a hundred less.
Richard

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1194
  Thanks, Rich.  Now I have more Weeden parts to play with.
I'll have to open up my Weeden box and see what I can cobble
together with your parts and mine.  Hopefully, it will be
something uniquely weird.  Apropos for a Weeden.

Wayne

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1254
  • Location: Kyle, Tx
  Thanks, Rich.  Now I have more Weeden parts to play with.
I'll have to open up my Weeden box and see what I can cobble
together with your parts and mine.  Hopefully, it will be
something uniquely weird.  Apropos for a Weeden.

Wayne

You have another box coming, it has a Weeden and some bits of a Empire.  In side the box today, there should be a smaller box with some sight glass.  It isn't packing!  There are some other small bits I threw in there too - perhaps you can use them.  Hopefully you see that stuff as a good trade for rare strapped boiler Empire.
Richard

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1254
  • Location: Kyle, Tx
My little re-paint of my engine is in hiatus.  My main base had some adhesion problems, either the Dupli-Color didn't like the Rust-Oleum Primer or I wasn't careful enough getting it / keeping it clean before painting with Bright Red.  So, I reset the painting on the base again (the sub bases seem okay).  As they say, 80% of the effort on painting is prep work:

  • Bought Dupli-Color Perfect Match Primer.  I suppose if you are going to spend crazy amounts of $$ on paint color might as well buy matching primer.
  • Bought their cleaner/de-waxer too.
  • Tack towels to use with Dupli-Color cleaner/de-waxer.
  • Dupli-Color Perfect Match Clear/Gloss Top Coat, if and when I get that far!

I have the base re-stripped/sanded to bare metal and two paint sessions with their primer.  Wet Sanded (600) 1st round of primer, dawn soap water wash, then Dupli-Color cleaner, and then 2nd pass at priming.  Then wet sanded 600 again, dawn soap water wash, and then Dupli-Color cleaner - ready for painting!  But now bad weather is rolling in, 100° humidity as I am typing this and thunderstorms until tomorrow.  But at least I got the base ready for Bright Red.

I also pulled the rivets of the stand offs and I am corresponding with hansonrivet.com to get new ones.  I believe they will be 1/8 semi-tubular truss rivets.  Though I'll need to get a 3 inch reach hand squeeze rivet tool to reach all the rivet points (not a cheap tool).  I'll use 4-40 round head stainless steel machine screws until I sort out rivets.
Richard

  • Global Moderator
  • Engineer
  • *****
  • Posts: 5149
  • Wherever you go ......... there you are!
  • Location: Eastern Sierra
Were it mine, I'd stick with the stainless screws (bolts), as rivets can be such a pain and are never convenient in actual use, but only cheap in original assembly. If you feel you must maintain authenticity with rivets, you can always set up a staking station with a vise mounted punch for backing, to avoid the high cost of specialty tooling.

Just my $0.02
"Information is not knowledge, Knowledge is not wisdom, Wisdom is not truth, Truth is not beauty, Beauty is not love, Love is not music: Music is THE BEST...   
Wisdom is the domain of the Wis (which is extinct). Beauty is a French phonetic corruption of a short cloth neck ornament currently in resurgence..."
F. Zappa ... by way of Mary, the girl from the bus.

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1254
  • Location: Kyle, Tx
My ODC will get me if I stick with the screws....

Well, I haven't a vise at all, likely the better long term buy.  Then then I have the problem where to mount it.  I looked at the MUCH cheaper hand punches that you wack with a hammer.  Though I can just see myself slipping and messing up the paint.  So when that happens I'd be better off buying that costly tool.  So this is what I have been pondering all this time.  I taped off those darn stand offs a dozen of time before removing them.  Trust me, I've thought about it a LOT!

Oh, then for the squeeze tool you have to buy the little bits for the 1/8 rivet too!
Richard

  • Global Moderator
  • Engineer
  • *****
  • Posts: 5149
  • Wherever you go ......... there you are!
  • Location: Eastern Sierra
Even without a vise, you can still just mount your backing punch in a block of wood by drilling an appropriate sized hole in the block.

On the other hand, it is only YOU that needs to be happy with your end results, so it really is best to do it exactly the way that you prefer!
"Information is not knowledge, Knowledge is not wisdom, Wisdom is not truth, Truth is not beauty, Beauty is not love, Love is not music: Music is THE BEST...   
Wisdom is the domain of the Wis (which is extinct). Beauty is a French phonetic corruption of a short cloth neck ornament currently in resurgence..."
F. Zappa ... by way of Mary, the girl from the bus.

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1254
  • Location: Kyle, Tx
that's a interesting idea with a block of wood... i have a lot of time to roll this around in my head.  Thanks @Stoker for the ideas / advise.
Richard

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1254
  • Location: Kyle, Tx
Found a interesting custom tool for these type of rivets on eBay, used for Tonka Trucks of all things.

TONKA NYLINT BUDDY L STRUCTO, RIVET TOOL FOR 1/8" SEMITUBULAR RIVETS Fixt Dies

I think it will just enough bite to get to the farthest rivet.  I sent a ton of photos to the seller (maker I believe) and thinks it will work but if not he will accept a return for a refund.  The tool is at the high end of what I want to pay for one but it's much cheaper than "real" rivet tools.

Also, hansonrivet.com is sending me a bunch of sample rivets to try.
Richard

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1254
  • Location: Kyle, Tx
I can tell you when you are painting you never want this to happen with your last can of pain (see photo).  Luckily O'Riley's Auto Parts down the road from me had one can of Bright Red (I even had a $5 reward coupon).  Also, Dupli-Color support is sending me a full refund for the bad can I got from Amazon.  I swear there is something "out there" wanting me to fail at this paint job!

In other news, that eBay Rivet Tool will work (came in today), I actually should have bought the one where you can change the ends out for different types of rivet heads/sizes.  The included Rivets almost are long enough.  I have high hopes for the ones coming from Hanson Rivet.  Many thanks @komet163b for sending me back that base with the same stand-offs so I can practice on it!
Richard

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1254
  • Location: Kyle, Tx
Have her back together again, though I am using 4-40 screws to mount the wheel stand-offs to the base until I sort (or not) the rivets.  I am so much happier with this Dupli-Color Perfect Match BGM0398 Bright Red paint (and lacquer in general).  Though it is a bit brighter than the original but not by much, not that I know what it really looked like 70+ years ago.

Speaking of 4-10 screws, I replaced all the screws for the sub-bases and straps with 4-40 Machine Round Head Stainless Steel screws and matching Hex nuts.  The originals aren't actually machine screws, their treads are a bit coarser.  Aside from that, they seems virtually the same and help the look of the engine (as opposed the worn out / rusty ones).

Photo of my two EMPCO's together.
Richard

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1194
Once again great job. 

As to the paint...in a few years it will have darkened enough to look
like it is a very well taken care of original.

Congrats,
Wayne 

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1254
  • Location: Kyle, Tx
Getting closer to calling it done on this little guy.  The rivets bits are getting close, so I am excited to see how well that goes.  With me using screws for the moment, I can see why they used rivets on the stand-offs instead of screws.  The little engine really works them loose - so I put some blue Loctite on them.

My playing with the engine over the weekend and getting it to max stream a new leak popped up.  I knew I had a very small one at the water stack but the new one popped up on the lower sight glass fitting.  At first I thought my Blue Loctite failed on the pipe threads to the tank (used Blue, as that is what I had on hand).  While I couldn't find Loctite 542 around town that Paula suggested, I was able to pick up Permatex 59235 High Temperature Thread Sealant yesterday.  I don't know if the Loctite 542 is red (it does come in a red bottle) but the Permatex 59235 is white and I prefer that to red.  Either way, in the end that wasn't my leak!  These strapped tanks have a brass insert for the pipe and under my desk magnifying lamp I could see pin hole compromises in the sweat seam for the brass fitting.  Pretty much the same kind of holes around the water stack that I found earlier.

So I used Gorilla Glue gel, using a toothpick to agitate the gel into the holes and forum a nice even seam around both fittings.  No telling how long it will last but so far so good under heat and steam today. Now only steam/water is coming out where you'd expect it to come out!  Man, this little engine can go ;-)
Richard