Here is the little combo Engine and Water Pump! No problems at all, other than the tank base was in fact offset from the lower base but that was a snap to fix. I oiled it a bit, filled her up with water and off she went (I did pre-test the heater blanket).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2j5hXQvf33Y
I think I now see why the tank was shifted. It has a bit of a leak on the front plate on the lower right, so I assume that shift was done to insure the water dripped over the base (and not inside it). I am pondering if I should try and fix it but I may end up opening a can of worms. My 90 had the same problem and it's very touchy as the sight glass fittings are sweated into the tank.
I wonder if superglue could help here - I hear members talk about superglue a lot.... thoughts?
I'd have to actually see the problem first hand in order to have a valid opinion.
But, certain types of super glue (I use Zap-a-gap) seems to work well on Jensen cylinder splits.
I have a new bottle of Gorilla Glue - that seems to be pretty good stuff. If not, then I assume ZAP-A-Gap Medium CA+?
@Stoker Is "Yep" for Gorilla Glue or would it be that I should source some ZAP-A-Gap Medium CA+ glue ....
The "Yep" was in reference to the Zap-a-gap being the same stuff I use. I wasn't however, making that as a choice for you. Just affirming that you had correctly identified the stuff that I use to seal split Jensen cylinders.
On another note, I have no experience with Gorilla Glue, so you'll have to make that decision.
Once again, without really knowing the situation, up close and personal, I cannot really evaluate best application.
Thanks
@Stoker understood on all points. The front of the boiler is a "cap" and the solder sweat seam has slightly failed. So not a rip/hole/gap. Seems on the internet's fellows recommend Zap-a-gap, a few others Gorilla Glue. Going to give my Gorilla Glue a try.
I cleaned the area with with alcohol and then acetone. Then did a ample bead of
Gorilla Glue using a toothpick to agitate the glue around on the seam.
I am happy to report that my Gorilla Glue worked on that seam. I suppose we'll see how well it holds but it isn't like I steam these guys up a lot either.
Congrats!
Glad to hear that you have successfully accomplished a repair. It will probably prove adequate for the life of that engine.
Were it mine, I do believe I'd have heatsinked the sight glass mounts and gone with a dab of flux and my finest tip torch to flow a bit of solder back into that little gap.
As I was working on the sight glass, I discovered the fittings to the tank are screwed in - not sweated in like later tanks with the same fittings. I seriously did think about just heating up the seam, I am 95% sure it would not need any new solder and as you say a bit of flux just to let what is there to re-flow. My torch is a bit of a sledgehammer, it isn't a full size guy but small(er) hand held but still a bit of a big/wide flame (doesn't support tips). You stating "finest tip torch" makes me want to get something that allows a bit more fine control.
@Stoker thanks for your help, I do appreciate your time reading/posting! Sometimes I just need a bounce back to tell me something I should already know ;-)
Today I removed the top mech and cleaned/polished under it, cleaned the seal surfaces and replaced the seals. With the mounting areas sealed up and not leaking the engine No.50 Pump will throw water out of the pump mech until I have to pour more water in. I still have my Silicone tubing coming in for a "better" sight glass seal, hopefully one of the sizes I am getting is the sliver bullet (I'll update my seal thread about that experiment).
Here are some photos. I think she has just the right amount of wear and tear look to her. My only wish is to find a seal one day for the upper mounting points that don't overlap like the red ones I have installed.
Oh, I love the accessory band this combo unit has. It is about double in diameter of the ones that I have bought, I think this band might be original Empire part. If so that is pretty cool to have.