Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines
The Regular Stuff: Chat, Buy, Sell, Off Topic, etc. => General Discussion - Model & Toy Steam Engines – Stirling Cycle – Flame Lickers – Small Antique Originals => Topic started by: pwalchak on May 07, 2025, 05:17:53 pm
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Thanks everyone!
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I agree with @Junkologist. What you don't want to happen is pour water off the side of the tank (say when filling it) and get the heater soaked (avoid that but it happens, so let it dry when it does). Or have such a leak you are streaming water into the heater (fix that leak).
I've had to replace a number of heaters and I expect the 1st case as the biggest problem and it is likely compounded with heavy (tap) water. The water boils/steams away but not the minerals. So use filtered water with a mixture of distilled water, not tap water. I'd don't even use "spring water". In my area in central Texas, the tap water is crazy hard!
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I can’t see how water dripping down the side of the boiler can short anything out when the boiler is operating and up to temperature. It would almost instantly boil away. It would never last long enough in liquid form to cause a problem.
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I don't see this working, despite the temp rating of the silicone, heat , contraction ,expansion will be your undoing me thinks.
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Hello,
I have read many stories of how even small amounts of water run down the boiler of Empire engines and short out the heating element. I'm going to restore a Model 30 and am considering running a bead of high-temperature silicone or a similar sealant on the underside, where the boiler rests on the firebox. This would keep the moisture can't make it to the heating element. Since I've never heard of anyone doing this, I figure there must be a reason this is a bad idea but I can't figure out why?
I have found silicone products rated as high as 750 degrees Fahrenheit, and other sealants rated as high as 2000 degrees.
Does anybody see a problem with me running a bead of sealant?
Paul