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I have finally used up my old stock of the green drive band material that so many of us fell in love with years ago...
I never knew this and honestly thought the green belting worked great, but Bruce had mentioned that it is designed to slip. Sure enough, their website states the same:QuoteThis rough green (also matte or textured) Polycord® equivalent round polyurethane cord has a textured surface that is designed to slip a little. The rough surface has a low coefficient of friction which is useful in accumulation zones, or where jams happen frequently. Use this material in place of standard clear polyurethane when you need the belt to "give" a little, instead of overheating or abrading.
I had saved the website https://www.ebelting.com as it was suggested by John Loughner awhile back. My green belting was 88A Durometer, so I thought I'd give some different Durometers a try. I ordered both the clear - 2mm/83A and the red - 2mm/90A. I have tried the clear, which is much softer and has a lot more grip than my old green belt. I plan to use the red on dynamos/heavy loads, based on the description:QuoteHigher durometer heavy duty urethane belting typically used to drive heavy loads on line-shaft and powered roller conveyors.
I suggested this belting to Chris (Cbwho), and he found some 80A in brown on their site (I had completely missed this in my search), and pointed out that it would be a good match to look like leather belting. I am interested to hear his results as well... an o-ring is 70A.
Anyway, I am a very happy customer with the clear, have yet to try the red. Mine arrived within 5 to 6 days (weekend included).
I hold both ends over a lighter till they are on fire, blow them out and push them together. After a few seconds I roll the joint smooth between my fingers. I have never had luck with black o-ring material and super glue, but I made a video showing how well this belting stays together at the weld. Not a good video and yes I smashed my hand on the desk
luckily there wasn't a steam toy in the way! I wanted to test the strength with a fishing scale, but it was too easily maxed out without even being close to the breaking point.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CumRzxPC8EQ
Many choices here in the Cord/Raw Material section
https://www.ebelting.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=11 -
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good that you found some Nick, I also use 2mm but have them dye it black, I just bought 200' earlier this year....stuff is pricey @ .42 cents a foot
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I paid .19 cents/foot for the clear and .25 cents/foot for the red with $12.30 shipping. (300 feet total), so if you add the two together and include the shipping cost, it comes to .25 cents/foot. most of my belts are made from less than a foot and I usually re-use them on something else as I don't have many permanent displays, so I guess it's not too bad.
The clear doesn't look as bad as I thought it would, but I think Chris's brown belting will look the best. My setups are not very realistic, so the looks of it don't really matter...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-ose-q3dwM -
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I still have a bit of green belting that I bought from John many years ago, good to know you have found another source Nick. Would be interesting to try some different sorts, do they ship overseas?
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I'm still trying to get the joining procedure figured out. I am a 😸 about burning my fingers.
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I'm still trying to get the joining procedure figured out. I am a 😸 about burning my fingers.
If you don't want to roll it between your fingers, just burn it, push it together and hold till it cools, then make the joint round with an end snips. 
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After a few dozen joins you'll get the hang of it , I made an apparatus once...but eyeball hand joining works best for me , you have a few seconds once joined together to adjust the alignment, then I use a large toenail (curved inward) clippers to nip off the mushroom head & then roll lightly on my 1"belt sander & you can hardly find the join when done correctly 😊
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Good tips Bruce, never thought of sanding it smooth. Here's what I use to trim them up
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I also used nail clippers like Bruce which work very well and have joined mine by eye which took some practice.
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My joiner.
I made 2 and marked the best joiner with A.
I read somewhere that someone uses a clothes pin with a slot. First I glue on the side guides with the other side wrapped in plastic.
Then I cut a slight with a saw and the drill a hole. The belt fits snug in the hole. After welding, pull thru slit.
Works fantastic. I wet the wood before a session as I melt the belt ends with a lighter. No need to start belt ends on fire. No burnt fingers. I look for the tiniest smoke. I rarely have a bad weld. (I made quite a few now!) I found that it is best to make the belt a little undersized and stretch to fit.
I tried breaking the belt and I cannot with my hands. Amazing. -
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Not sure I quite understand how that clothespin works, but like you say, very hard to break with your hands! You have to stretch it 4 to 5 times the size before it's even close to breaking.
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Nick,
Since a welder costs $300, I figure I could get $100 per clothespin welder, no?
The side pieces of wood align the clamping action.
The 2mm hole holds onto the belt, you thread each end, one per side. Hold the clamp open and with a few mm of belt poking into the middle, use a lighter. And soon as you see a wisp of smoke, release your fingers and the clamp shuts perfectly aligned. Let it sit for a minute or two as you measure, prep your next belt.
Press clamp again to pop apart, pull belt out and triim mushroom. Mushroom isn't really a mushroom but rather a paperthin since smooshed flat during welding. -
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@Jim, check this belting out
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