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Author Topic: Jensen #65 el "dual fuel" live steam engine (110V electric)  (Read 1095 times)

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Hi folks,
I received this Jensen #65 the other day, brand new from Jensen Mfg. I installed a 350W cartridge style heater in the rear of the boiler, painted the boiler, chimney stand & chimney with VHT burnt copper paint. I put roller ball bearings in the stanchions. she will run 2 hrs. on 45V with a full boiler. the engine is flip reversible. fun little economical plant.

Bruce, St. Paul Indiana, USA
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The SPS Jensen Monster Modder strikes again!

NICE!!!
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How cool is that!  ;D

The Jensen #65 is one of my favourite engines from their range, I really like the fact your model is duel fuelled too!

Great work as always Bruce.  ;)
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Very nice upgrade, having that dual fuel option, well done Bruce  :)
Cheers
Jan
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  Neat mods, very well done.  I've had occasion to use cartridge heaters
on two Empires and an Elektro.

  So, how did you do it?  Drill into the boiler and solder the carrier
tube in or mount it on the bottom?  Inquiring minds want to know.

Good Successful work,
Wayne
 

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  Neat mods, very well done.  I've had occasion to use cartridge heaters
on two Empires and an Elektro.

  So, how did you do it?  Drill into the boiler and solder the carrier
tube in or mount it on the bottom?  Inquiring minds want to know.

Good Successful work,
Wayne
Hi Wayne,  the video describes it pretty well , use a step drill for better/easier drilling up to the desired size, of course make sure your centered  , I try to leave a minimum of 3/16"-1/4" off of the bottom for Good heat circulation.  I have an Indy X that I would like to make usable again, but the rear of the boiler is exposed,  I'm thinking of some kind of tube underneath to accept 2 cartridge heaters 😏
Bruce, St. Paul Indiana, USA
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I'm always enthralled with what you come up with Bruce and once again you don't fail to deliver.
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Cheers.
Jim

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Prediction: Jensen sees a small boost in Jensen 65 orders over the next week.

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Bruce, do you use a silver solder, with a 1200 degree or so melting point, or do you use a solder with a lower melting point?

Mike

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Bruce, do you use a silver solder, with a 1200 degree or so melting point, or do you use a solder with a lower melting point?

Mike
Hi Mike
I use STAY BRITE® #8 TIN/SILVER SOLDER, it has the highest melting point I could find in a soft solder
here are the specs
Solidus 221°C (430°F)
Liquidus 279°C (535°F)
Deposit color – silver
Shear Strength (copper lap joint) – 10,600 PSI
it has a generous cushion of melting point , brazing solder (silver solder) although would be the best ,would run the risk of unsoldering the boiler end cap & most definitely turning the boiler blue ,thus necessitating the need to get it re nickel plated (4-6 weeks turn around) if you run the boiler dry for an extended period ,you could run the risk of melting the brass sleeve out of the boiler & ruining the heater, the spec say this heater could get up to 1400 degree's temp (undamped)...so I'm guessing silver brazing wouldn't hold up either. if you don't run it completely out of water....you will have no trouble.  :)
Bruce, St. Paul Indiana, USA
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  Nikola Tesla

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Prediction: Jensen sees a small boost in Jensen 65 orders over the next week.
Of the 3 engines I have done in the past week, #85 , #60 ,#65 , I consider the #65 most suitable for this heater application & the best bargain , with its much longer boiler than the #85/#60 & its slide valve & reversing capability , I wish it had the 1/2" bore cylinder , but the smaller 7/16" ID does fine.
Bruce, St. Paul Indiana, USA
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  Nikola Tesla

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Another great creation by St Paul Steam...!!!
Very well done, Bruce!


I believe if you had the misfortune of bluing a Jensen boiler, You can polish the blue away.
I cooked a #55 boiler once and polished it back to shiny nickel without much trouble at all.


Gil

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Experience reprint from another forum.

On occasion, a few years back, I would walk away from a leccy for a few minutes while it heated up.
10 years ago I walked away from a Jensen #55 right after plugging it in with a freshly filled cold boiler.

NEVER AGAIN !!!

Fast forward about 30 minutes.
I had not returned as another project grabbed my attention.
The smell of smoke wafting in from the other room got my attention.
The boiler (nickel plated) had run completely dry and turned a nice blue while the copper finish on the firebox turned dark and a little blistered. The insulation was the new kind and turned to rubbish (dust). Where's the asbestos when you need it??? I filled it back up and ran it and it seemed fine. After it cooled, I removed the boiler to polish out the lovely blue and gold coloring to restore the original nickel plate finish.I didn't like the looks of the heater so I replaced it, then sent the engine to JohnReid who sent me an STC-04 in trade which will be on it's way to another forum member in the next few days.Thankfully Jensen uses a high quality high temp silver solder sothe excess heat on a dry  and very hot boiler had zero effect on it.

Gil




After the burn......

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Great job on bringing that back to good condition Gil.
I don't know if you could get away with that on the current factory offerings , the nickel plating looks more like stainless steel than shiney nickel plating.
Bruce, St. Paul Indiana, USA
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  Nikola Tesla

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Nice job Bruce!