Re the JB Weld fix.
I tried it using the regular (not quick hardening) JB Weld.
I did a good clean prep, proper application, and a 48 hrs cure
time. I put in some water, it started heating, and as soon as
I could sense pressure building, TINK went the base and the
water started to leak again. Perhaps applying a vacuum to
the boiler, to draw the JB in, might have helped.
I do have a couple of KJ boilers that leak a bit from base
cracks but still make enough steam to work. I think the best
most reliable fix is a base replacement. Whoever thought this
boiler material and heating arrangement needed a checkup from
the neck up. That goes for the MARX and Weeden designers who
decided a tin boiler was the way to go. Their analysis was
flawed - they dropped the ball. The results, over time, are
bad, bad, bad.
Good Luck,
Wayne