Now that right there is why I’m still at war with these people. When I bought the engine, it said drill start or rope start. The CAD DRAWINGS show more or less what you show. Their latest instructions depict a CAD image of the installed adapter, and identify it as drill start, optional. Yet when I pressed my case to get what I paid for, Lucas at DIY. Claims he asked engineering, and the engineer said it wasn’t necessary, and they should make sure I got the rope start. Necessary hasn’t a thing to do with it. You can’t trust them to comply with their own offer once they have the money. But if their own pics show it, they’re simply stonewalling, and absolutely it’ll cost em.
Meanwhile, back at the asylum, a modular belt transmission has sprouted on the bench, somewhere between doses of glaucoma medicine.
The prototype was a simple cube, ugly as homemade sin, and barely turned due to tight tolerances and no bearings. But with my vision, patterns work better than measuring, so I was able to refine the fit and add ball bearings in press fit, bored out plywood bearing cups glued to the frame, etc. For a bit of styling, I tried to embrace a cross between organic and mechanical vibes, in keeping with a steampunk theme. I’m working on a copper drum type coffee roaster attachment to run off this thing, if I ever get it running and verify function and drive speeds, etc.
Your belt should work fine. Go easy on tension, and if it slips, you can treat the belt with brake fluid or (less messy) windex to add grip. If that fails, a bit of rosin (bowling supplies) or chalk on the flywheel will help. I’ve used all of them to quiet slipping belts on cars, lathe drives, etc. my goal is light belt tension limits drag and bearing wear.
Meanwhile tracking has my ignition and oil pan in the country…..
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