I just took possession of a Marklin 4097/6. I've been wanting one like this,
a 'German' boiler/engine with dynamo. I made a video of it running on air, but
a steam run might be way down the road.
The problem is this. It is an electrically powered unit and according to the
ohm meter it is a dead circuit. I've replaced broken heaters on Empires before,
but this one is different. Instead of a belly heater or hotplate burner, Marklin
added a brass(?) tube a bit smaller than the boiler hanging underneath in the middle
of the boiler. When probing, the 'sump' almost reaches to the bottom of the firebox.
When looking in thru the space between the boiler and the smokebox you can see it is
heated by a band heater - or what is left of it. Of course, in a fit of negligent
engineering, the 'filler' hole is directly over the middle of the boiler and heating
band. Big mistake. I can see that water dribbled down the side, probably while filling,
soaked into the heater, and the negligent owner turned it on. I've given away several
engines with belly heaters, and I always recommend being very careful when filling and,
if you think the heater became wet, DO NOT TURN IT ON! Empty the boiler of whatever water
made it in and then let it sit. Maybe, for days. You also could take an aquarium pump and
direct its air into the heater area that was wetted to quicken the drying process.
So, I think I'm capable of making a new heater unit but how to take it apart is the
real question. The power cord goes into the firebox and attaches to a fixture on the
immediate firebox wall. From there, fireproof leads go to the burner. Because of this,
I think the firebox and boiler need to come off as one. Therefore, I'll need to dis-
connect the steam pipe at the valve on the boiler top. On this tactic the question
arises - is it soft or hard soldered. I'm hoping soft.
I've added a link to a you tube run on air. The gauge is another problem but at least
it is easily removable. The dynamo requires more investigation. I presume it is AC. The
cover is a bit loose, a mounting screw was missing and the others loose (maybe it is not
original), and it does not register any output on my multimeter when running on air.
Finally, a small nit. The oil cap is stuck and the little oil-holding cup it screws into
twists as if it is threaded and screws into the steam chest. Is that so?
https://youtu.be/gW-g_UrFdaE Well, it does run and is complete (I do have the ratty pressure gauge). I just need to get
it opened so I can attack the heater problem and beat it into submission using aftermarket
band heaters.
Saving grace - it was a reasonable purchase from an auction house.
Hoping for some answers,
Wayne