Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines

So my brother gave me a box of Weeden Engines but one was actually an Empire No 90.  I was looking at this box of parts for komet163b in his wanted posting about Empire/Weeden parts (I think there are some nice parts that I have).  I actually forgot that Nick told me this was an Empire.

Anyways, I decided to check out the terminals on my DVM and it ohm'ed out okay.  Though at this point I am thinking the piston is broken because it just seesaws but after seeing video "Empire Model No 90 Under Steam" by Retro Steam Tech (Allen I believe) I learned other wise.  So I filled her up with water and she made steam.  But she wouldn't power the wheel...hmmm

I took the piston apart from the base (which was a lot of fun) and cleaned/polished/oil things up.  This didn't help.  Then after a lot of scratching my head, I noticed from Allen's web page for the Empire Number 90 that my whistle lever was oriented 180 degrees out.  So I look it a part and back.  I think someone else had it apart and didn't put washer(s) back on.  After I put on two washers I was able to get a good seal and the orientation correct!  Now she is working - crazy!  I had no idea in a box I had more or less a working Empire No 90!

Seward tells me this is an Engine made between 30s~40s and again in the 60s.  But he says mine is an earlier model.

Thanks @komet163b!  Here's the 90 running the Empire 50 Water Pump.  As I spoke about before the pump doesn't move water all the well and I can figure out the problem at all.  But at least the 90 moves the water pump - the Empire B35 can't move it at all!

Ugh, so around the whistle top/steam line I developed a leak, so I gave it a little wrench and the fitting on the tank came undone. FML LOL

My sweating skills aren't the best but I got the steam line/whistle fitting back on the tank (not pretty at all) and as I feared I now have a wee leak on the seam for front cover.   I don't want to try if fix it, since I know I'll just make that cover leak more.  I think the top glass fitting leaks more to be honest (another thing I don't want to try and fix).  I don't think either of these leaks are near as much you get from the actual whistle lever.

To bad there isn't an Empire repair shop to fix my mess up.

I am sure you guys are tired of my updates & whinging about my problems/needs but it seems like the little #90 didn't liked to be polished - the heater blanket opened up.  Hard to believe it even worked, it more or less was in bits when I took the tank off.  I even think someone worked on it before because there is a solder blob in the middle of it.  I suppose now I can polish all around the tank ha!

So now for a solution for a heater for it - when I worked on my brother's Jenson I ended up with an extra heater blanket.  He is sending that extra one (which is brand new) to me to see if I can get it to fit and not electrocute me.

In other news, I think I am going to try to fix the sight glass seals, though I am trying to hunt a proper O-ring. There is another #90 thread where a suggestion was made but no follow up if they worked.  I found these on granger, O-Ring: 5 mm Nominal Inside Dia., 7 mm Nominal Outside Dia., 7 mm Actual Outside Dia., Black, 25 PK

Hi Jeff,

I like to use o-rings also, rather than tubing (unless the OD is too large for the nut ID, of course.)

Have you considered a metric o-ring? A 5mm ID x 7mm OD x 1mm wide might work. You would need around 9/32" dia. clearance inside the compression nut. I have a bunch of them, and could send you a few, if you think it's worth a try.

Paula

and this interesting idea:

  Have you considered Teflon tape twisted into a thin string and then wrapped
around the glass tubing (as much as seems needed)?  It works the same way
as a slice of silicone tubing.  I can testify to that!

Wayne

Not sure if that is "Thanks", that annoys me or "Thanks", that's great/nice you did that - I hope it is not the former LOL

The Jenson heater blanket was a no-go, too long - so I got some 120w heater cartridges but she isn't making enough steam with the two installed.  The tank & sight glass fittings have been giving me fits too.  Seems when I had to re-solder the lower fitting back on, I compromised the front of the tank's seam.  That took like 3~4 tries to get the front seam sealed and not having the bottom sight glass fitting fall out on me.  Before my last try, when the bottom sight glass fitting came off, I did throw the darn thing in the waste basket.  I was so pissed at myself.  After a smoke break I decided to try it one more time... best I can tell no water/steam coming out around the front of the tank.

So the 120w heater cartridges.  There is almost enough steam made to get her to go, its right on the edge I think.  I used some flex metal stripping that I had to wrap around the two cartridges but I am thinking it isn't working enough to spread out the heat (I did think to myself that it looked dodgy).  @komet163b suggest baling wire in another thread, so I am going to get some from Lowes.  Some of that wire that is for hanging very heavy items (like large mirrors), perhaps I can get a good wrap and it will form a nice fit under the tank (and on the iron plate).

If the baling wire doesn't work I am pretty sure I will kick it over my back yard's fence and say a number of curse words.

  I've made heaters of 200 watts, 2X200 watts, and 250 watts (on its
way to Texas).  The first two in B43's and the last is on its way
to a B30.  I also used a 250 watt 'crankcase' heater in my last
restore, a Weeden 44, even though I had an original heater.  Of
course, they all work but the 2X200 watter is the most powerful.
This video is of the B43 with 2X200 carts.



Well, the first three are made in this way (the 2X200 has two holes)...

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

This is a diagram of the one I sent to Texas.  If it is not fast
enough, we'll have to add another cartridge.  No problemo.

Wayne

  I've made heaters of 200 watts, 2X200 watts, and 250 watts (on its
way to Texas).  The first two in B43's and the last is on its way
to a B30.  I also used a 250 watt 'crankcase' heater in my last
restore, a Weeden 44, even though I had an original heater.  Of
course, they all work but the 2X200 watter is the most powerful.
This video is of the B43 with 2X200 carts.

Wayne

Thanks for the video, that's a good runner! I'm basically using the same approach with my B31. I've heard of folks having blanket heaters made up for the B31, but I wanted to try it with cartridge heaters, as I'm more familiar with them. Plus, I can machine the blocks which are necessary to transfer the heat to the boiler. I'll be posting a thread soon on how this worked out. Sounds like you've had quite a bit of experience along these lines.

Paula