Sometimes finding "Something" to power with our small engines is half the fun.
This is a rather smallish Ferris Wheel kit, but I was drawn to it because the base is actually a sound chamber for a clock works type music box which provides the music for the wheel BUT more importantly the geared music box movement has a pulley and drive band to power the wheel, so hopefully a conversion to engine power will go smoothly. I will post what I think of it after its finished.
I think I will have to gear down considerably anything I put it under so the gondola's do not fly out from centrifugal force
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Looking forward to watching your progress on this Ben.
Looking forward to watching your progress on this Ben.
Happy to have you along for the ride Bruce!
Taking a short break from the "fussy" wheel building part, thought I would build the music box base. I tested the clock works musical part in my hand and it was Very soft sound, I knew that soundbox's have an amplifier effect from my mountain dulcimer building days...but quite surprised how MUCH louder it is inside the box!
This post is really to show the stock drive system, in the first photo you can see the feet and winder key underneath, then the drive pulley on the side of clock works, then the semi-clear drive band O-ring around the pulley. This will go straight up to a pulley on the big wheel axle. I thought this drive system was kind of clever, I hope to keep it in place, but have the option to slip the drive band off the clock works and over to an engine of choice.
Second photo is just the top of box with drive band coming thru the slotted hole. Wanted to share before the box gets closed in.
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I've been watching these wooden models for some time now, too, and I'm thinking of buying one of these to power one of my steam engines. Therefore, I will follow your construction with great interest.
Thatīs a neat looking kit Ben, will be interesting to follow your build here
As a couple members expressed interest, thought I would share a bit more about the kit.
I have seen this model advertised as low as $22 BUT you must spend $75 or more to get "free shipping" with this vendor. I purchased on Amazon for $29.99. Shipped to my home.
Amazon reviews range from "absolutely unbuildable" to "Loved it!"... Lol
I have built several wood kits like this and here are my thoughts so far. The wood sheets are thinner than many more stout kits and some reviews say " to cheap"...I disagree, if this small Ferris Wheel had been cut from 3/16" thick material it would have given the wheel a "blockey" look...sure, aircraft plywood would be a Nice choice but not in this price range.
The critical thing on THIS kit is to 100% cut all tabs holding the part in the web, they are perhaps only .010 inch long and often not even visible from the "top side" you must flip the sheet over and cut the tabs from back side working with a THIN knife, even a #11 Exacto will get wedged in the thin Laser kurf, only the point will fit.
The next thing is you will likely break a couple parts despite best effort, rather that view this as "disaster" I like to think of it as "opportunity" to beef up a weak part, super glue is your friend, and I keep thick and runny varieties on my bench. Save all the little wood "slivers" and fit to gather like a puzzle. You can dry fit and wick runny super glue into the repair or if just joining a clean break than a thicker super glue works well. I am 6 foot 6 inches with hands the size of a Tundra Wookie(Artic Bigfoot) so as I can not see around them, I often position broken (small) parts with just the point of my knife....also there are some spare parts in the kit as well.
I am told that joining the 2 large wheels is extra "exciting" but I am not that far yet....to be continued!
The photo is the tabs needing cutting, I put pencil marks by a few, on larger kits you can get away with just punching these out, not this kit.
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Thank you for your very informative comments.
Ben , I have 2 kits waiting for me to put them together & it doesn't look likely anytime soon. You are correct about the music sound frames , holding between your fingers they are bare Audible , mount it to a thin metal base and they can easily be heard across the room.
Ben , I have 2 kits waiting for me to put them together & it doesn't look likely anytime soon. You are correct about the music sound frames , holding between your fingers they are bare Audible , mount it to a thin metal base and they can easily be heard across the room.
If my memory is correct, one of your kits is the oil derrick? That one is on my wanted list and it's not pricey but I only have so much free time so I will only put it in my cart if I find a screaming deal. If I had a lathe at home, I would probably be making pulleys and Jack shafts and Baker fans. I am on the hunt for a nice South Bend lathe or similar...but I do enjoy the woods kits to....specially if it is something I can belt up to an engine.
Ben , I have 2 kits waiting for me to put them together & it doesn't look likely anytime soon. You are correct about the music sound frames , holding between your fingers they are bare Audible , mount it to a thin metal base and they can easily be heard across the room.
If my memory is correct, one of your kits is the oil derrick? That one is on my wanted list and it's not pricey but I only have so much free time so I will only put it in my cart if I find a screaming deal. If I had a lathe at home, I would probably be making pulleys and Jack shafts and Baker fans. I am on the hunt for a nice South Bend lathe or similar...but I do enjoy the woods kits to....specially if it is something I can belt up to an engine.
Yes , I built the Wilesco oil Derrick kit (D11) & then modified it heavily , the kit stock is a poorly thought out imitation of a working oil Derrick , as designed the engine has to run at as close to stall speed as its capable of , & the oil Derrick arm will still be rocking at radical ,very unrealistic speed , it must be geared down to have any semblance of normalcy.
Ben , I have 2 kits waiting for me to put them together & it doesn't look likely anytime soon. You are correct about the music sound frames , holding between your fingers they are bare Audible , mount it to a thin metal base and they can easily be heard across the room.
If my memory is correct, one of your kits is the oil derrick? That one is on my wanted list and it's not pricey but I only have so much free time so I will only put it in my cart if I find a screaming deal. If I had a lathe at home, I would probably be making pulleys and Jack shafts and Baker fans. I am on the hunt for a nice South Bend lathe or similar...but I do enjoy the woods kits to....specially if it is something I can belt up to an engine.
Yes , I built the Wilesco oil Derrick kit , & then modified it heavily , the kit stock is a poorly thought out imitation of a working oil Derrick , as designed the engine has to run at as close to stall speed as its capable of , & the oil Derrick arm will still be rocking at radical ,very unrealistic speed , it must be geared down to have any semblance of normalcy.
I have seen (and admired) your modified and greatly improved D11 Wilesco, Bruce.
For some reason I had it in my head that you had this unbuilt wood model in your kit stash?...I may be way off...blood pressure meds are memory wreckers.
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Ben , I have 2 kits waiting for me to put them together & it doesn't look likely anytime soon. You are correct about the music sound frames , holding between your fingers they are bare Audible , mount it to a thin metal base and they can easily be heard across the room.
If my memory is correct, one of your kits is the oil derrick? That one is on my wanted list and it's not pricey but I only have so much free time so I will only put it in my cart if I find a screaming deal. If I had a lathe at home, I would probably be making pulleys and Jack shafts and Baker fans. I am on the hunt for a nice South Bend lathe or similar...but I do enjoy the woods kits to....specially if it is something I can belt up to an engine.
Yes , I built the Wilesco oil Derrick kit , & then modified it heavily , the kit stock is a poorly thought out imitation of a working oil Derrick , as designed the engine has to run at as close to stall speed as its capable of , & the oil Derrick arm will still be rocking at radical ,very unrealistic speed , it must be geared down to have any semblance of normalcy.
I have seen (and admired) your modified and greatly improved D11 Wilesco, Bruce.
For some reason I had it in my head that you had this unbuilt wood model in your kit stash?...I may be way off...blood pressure meds are memory wreckers.
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I do have that kit Ben , but other than purchase it I have never done anything with it , I believe Tim (steam & oil) did a very nice job of building one of these and Running it off of a steam engine. correction...Tim ran it with an electric motor.
I am Finally back at the build table tonight.
I have a tip to share! It is not earthshaking or even clever, but it can take a rather tedious task and make pleasant.
The photo is of 2 segments of the main big wheel, in an effort to make it look like an "airy" structure like real Ferris wheels, it is one of the more delicate parts in the kit. The "W" shaped part in the middle is press fit to join the 2 segments, so 12 segments make 1 wheel half.
The "W" benifits greatly if you sand a mini bevel on the square peg part that will enter the press fit hole, the kit provides the black square of sandpaper to do this but unsupported sand paper does not make for good precision sanding.
I use the purple sanding stick, a single swipe on each sharp corner is all it takes, you will be perhaps 5x more likely to make the press fit assembly without breaking a segment...in fact I have not broken one yet!
If I did not have the purple sanding stick, I would glue a strip of the black sandpaper to a popsicle stick or similar and get the same results.
There you go...not rocket science but makes the kit Much more enjoyable to build. The toothpick is pointing to the leading edge that will enter the press fit hole.
Side note: Ryders hobby logo on sanding stick is my Only local bricks and mortar hobby shop left, I support them as often as I can, even if it cost me a bit more.
Secondary note: these type kits are considered "no glue required" I do try to restrict my build to only use glue for repairs, however, as I plan to put this kit under an engine, I like to wick glue into several key areas to make the model hold up under a bit of load, The press fit construction offers quite a bit of opportunity for "tuning" at the end of build, only when I am satisfied everything it running as true and free as practical, then I wick super glue into many joints to lock in my settings.
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The big "wheel" is built, it should be plain sailing from here....lol
Couple notes: joining the 2 circles is not to hard, remember the sandpaper to put lead on square pegs and all will be fine, just don't try to force anything, if a peg is not going in it's hole....just get your good reading glasses out and see why, something always is out of alignment if it's not going in.
When you get 2 circles joined, the resulting structure will be flimsy and crooked as a snake....Don't worry, the next step is installing the "spokes" that run from the center hub out radially, these slot into the hub but have 2 holes each that pin the wheels into alignment. Much the way a carnival guy must feel the first time he assembled a wheel, the first spoke your thinking "it's not strong enough" then as your installing the last couple spokes, you are now thinking "this thing is stronger than it needs to be" and straight to!
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