Hello,
I recently acquired an Empire B30 steam engine (my first) and am looking for some operating information such as amount of water to fill to and steam oil to use.
I have done a little research on available steam oils and came across a Green Velvet SAPON-A-MAX 320 steam oil in 32 oz. size for $24. Would this be appropriate for use in a model such as this? They also offered a PB & J 220 bearing and journal oil but I am assuming any type of mineral oil would work for the crank shaft lubrication?
Also the top half of the whistle is missing. What thread is used on the base and would I have to make a replacement or are there other options?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you,
M
Hello Michael, and WELCOME to the Forum!
Green Velvet is an excellent steam oil, and unless you become a truly avid (perhaps best read as rabid) steamer, as many here are, a 32 oz bottle may well last you a lifetime. There are other options in much smaller bottles, but of course you will pay much more per ounce, so depending on your future usage, the larger size could prove to be a bargain.
Yes, most normal oils will work fine for the other moving parts that do not come in serious contact with steam. Many simply use 3 in 1 oil, sewing machine oil, or even engine oil or the like for the mechanical linkages. These engines are not under heavy load, nor typically operated for many hours, so most any suitable lubricant will prove adequate.
I like to keep my boilers at about 2/3 to 3/4 full. Any fuller and the boil will like run liquid water down your steam line to the engine, which is a bad thing. At the other end of the run cycle, I don't like to let my boilers get too much below half full. At or much below 1/3 full you are definitely going to want to start thinking about either shutting down or adding water.
Whistle shells for Empire engines are rather delicate and frequently split, thus are often found to be missing from the models. It is not too hard to make a replacement from K&S brass tubing or similar, and I have occasionally seen someone offering reproduction replacements, but foolishly didn't buy a handful when I did see that. Haven't seen it since ... of course!
Best of luck with your new (to you) steam engine. Empires are generally considered to be true classics, and other than the whistle are sturdy and well made. Should give you years of enjoyment!!!
Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.
Michael
Look forward to seeing another B30 running!
One of my favorite Empire models.
Have you tested the heater yet?
Hello,
I did not test it. The previous owner claimed it worked last time he used it. The cord looks like it has been replaced at one time but does not have the heater type cord. I probably should replace it with the proper type of wire.
What is the proper way to test it?
Also, if you have one of these models, could you please measure the length of the whistle cap for me? I need to make one as mine is missing.
Thank you.
Michael
Best initial test for a typical steam engine heater is to use a common volt meter (VOM) to test the heater leads for continuity and resistance. If you get an Ohm reading in the 25-50 range or something not far from that, it is likely your heating element is going to work. If you get no resistance, then you have a short to ground and if the Ohm meter doesn't change from a reading of 1, then you have an open circuit with no continuity. Likely a broken heater wire or a bad power lead contact.
Hope that made any sense?
Normally I would pop in and help with just about any Empire question but sadly I had to relocate to Atlanta for my job and I didn't bring any engines with me, all my stuff is back in my home in Texas (which my youngest is keeping up with).
Though if you use the forum search, you are likely to find most, if not all, then answers to your questions.
Heating element measured 37 ohms. It should make some water boil.
Thanks everyone for all your help and for the warm welcome. Now for the whistle top....
Michael
I just remembered that another member here,
@Paula, made a drawing of the early whistle topper. She found that these early ones were made in to parts. I don't think she'll mind if I post these CADs she shared with me.
Unless you already have replaced the seals, you can get these o-rings from Grainger. I use two for each side - after cleaning the fittings (which is a lot of fun).
O-Ring: 010, 1/4 in Nominal Inside Dia., 3/8 in Nominal Outside Dia., 70 Shore A, Red, Inch, 100 PK
Item 1REC5Mfr. Model U38883.006.0025
https://www.grainger.com/product/O-Ring-010-1REC5
Thank you. Are these for the sight glass?
Michael
Yep, for the sight glass seals. x2 on each side.