This burner showed with engine [Bing 130/114] in rough shape. The front vent hole was clogged. A vent hole was drilled in the back opposite corner. Both pilot stems were blocked. It came with large wicks.
It worked albiet it was a poor burner and would occasionally ignite and I worried about smy engines sides melting. and safety. of course.
Unblocking the stems after some time and not wanting to use crazy chemicals and knowing that I would need to figure out the fillet cap situation [missing and center screw part too] i decided i would use a torch and melt the two pilot tubes out to unclog them.
They each had remnants of 2 diff types of fuse/wick each in bad shape. each torched and burnt and packed down so tight from years of age.. I was able to unclog front vent with paperclip. in the first photo i had already shodily and casually replaced them knowing more precise work was needed.
I looked more carefully at the plug that was in place and realized it had filler cap threading. [required glasses 👓] and cleaned up the previous repair job. I melted off old solder and sanded and re soldered. closed up the back hole as well.
These burners need to be maintained and kept clean. they also need to be air tight and sealed so that the ventilation works.
Without the proper venting and vaccum they do not burn effecient.
Heres how it turned out let me know I can post more pictures or larger ones.
As always suggestions and feed back or advice allways appreciated.
Thanks Guys
Jason [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Original. Pilot tubes totally clogged. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
cleared [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
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Glad i found this part [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
My observations while doing this.
I wish my skills were better!
I find the burners need cotton wick. But have been experimenting with natural fiber and I have been weaving my own wicks
Denatured Alcohol Burns and vaporizes best. Seems hottest by far. 91% isopropyl alcohol seems to work not as hot but its legal and easy to find in California. Denatured is not [methylated spirits] i have to still try everclear liquor[120 proof 60abv] alcohol
Never use oil! these are vaporizors
These need that airlock, and any tiny hole is bad. The alcohol finds any way out it can, having any microholes itncan come out and ignite.
for those wondering how these work if i can explain best I can.
Fill burner with denatured alcohol. The wicks suck up the alcohol and will light like a lamp. in this case you can only light the pilot light. the large wick and mushroom top will not light until it warms up and is hot enough to vaporizer the alcohol in the large wick. this spreads out and you get flame.
the wicking action creates a suction and flow requiring proper venting. the more this is tuned and dialed in the better the burn. I will post a video of a Burner this week for those interested. as a Pyromaniac [3rd? hobby] these are in my top 10 of flame producing items.
Enjoy
Jason
Hi Jason,
A good work. These "mushroom burners" have a great advantage over the wick burners. They produce greater heat under the boiler due to the wider burning area. Thus, the steam generation happens faster and more intense. Another advantage is that the gasification of the methyl alcohol in the mushroom head and subsequent combustion produces less soot, which then settles under the boiler.
I have never experimented with making my own wicks. There are quite inexpensive cotton wicks that are infused with fiberglass. These wicks hardly carbonize at the tip and again reduce soot formation. This is true for the simple wick burners.
Burning the wicks in the mushroom head burners must not happen anyway, since the wicks only serve to transport the alcohol into the heads, where the alcohol mixes with air (gasification).
Dampfopa, took some photos.
first wicks on left were the ones stuck in burner. then the wad of rope twine came with burner [my inspiration] i noticed the white cotton cord burns horrible.
the brown cord is a hemp or sort of natural teine. i rememeberd back in the scouts this was soaked in kerosene so as to prevemt bugs and also aging. its highly wickable.
the braided on i made with the string kept doubling back. the burnt tip is cause it was too long and came into contact with burner head. it workes very well. the thick white cotton wick was the original coming with burner. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
on the far right of above picture is ideas im playing with for a homemade burner.
here is upclose of wicks. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
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not the original filler cap. i traded it for another machine. this cap is aftermarket! but came with engine. the burner i had bought complete but i like this new "filler cap" looks kinda ornate. but more important it holds burner in from sliding out against bottom lip of the door. which in my opinion is safer
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door closed
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open
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potential slide out factor. and an unsupervised burnt engine/house fire
Interesting photos they posted there. With the wicks it is always important for me that they are well absorbent and thus conduct the alcohol well to the burner head. The wick must never be too long, because otherwise it burns at the tip andes no clean Famme. You do right to use the filling cap from the aftermarket. You can't be too careful with the spirit burners. First the burner burns, then the house.
