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#15 Reply
Posted by
komet163b
on 26 Sep, 2023 10:14
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Excuse me....Is that the woebegone engine I sent you?
No, it can't be.
Glad I sent it to you,
Wayne
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@komet163b - yes it is - glad you like the progress! The only part that didn't come from your donor is the little pump base :-)
You have been super cool by sending not one but two shipments of parts. I have been gathering various parts of a later pressed steel Empire engine to send back to you, for you to build out or for spare parts. I also need to find that darn box of Weeden engine parts too that I have promised you.
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1st run video! Not happy with the paint color, once I find a better color match I will re-do it. I hear Plastikote Gloss Super Red is good from Allan in the UK but never heard of it. I have a little leak on the lower boiler pipe to tank - looks like pipe dope isn't going to cut it.
Thank you Wayne & Paula!
https://youtu.be/iIgN2MaOzc0
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#18 Reply
Posted by
Paula
on 28 Sep, 2023 17:57
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Hi Rich,
Thanks for the video! It's been fun watching your progress in getting this engine going again. Color doesn't look too bad to me -- maybe a little on the blue side -- but not bad at all. Was glad I could help you out with the fittings.
I use Loctite 542 on threaded fittings, and it rarely lets me down. You need something that won't extrude out of the thread under heat. And it needs to be a good mechanical joint. Shake the bottle before using, wipe off any excess, and let it set up overnight. The fittings can be removed normally later on, but the 542 crystallizes as it cures, and can be a bit of a pain to remove before resealing the joint.
Happy steaming, my friend!
Paula
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Thanks
@Paula couldn't have finished this little resurrection without you kind services! So far the blue Loctite is holding, I'll put on my list to get some 542 on hand.
Sadly the sight glass snap inside the elbows, likely if it let it soak over night it would have. The sight glass OD was 4.43mm / 0.145in. I bought 4mm glass tube long ago, so I wasn't to worried. The little problem I had was it actually measured out to have a OD of 3.5mm, so nearly a 1mm swing. I corresponded with a source and was told their 4mm tubing has a +/- 0.35mm tolerance.
So my ZerksPlus High Temp Silicone Tubing wouldn't hug my "4mm" glass. Now these glass tubes don't float between their fittings like later models, they are like the older iron base models where the glass tube slides into the elbow. So my mind with to o-rings like I use for those. While I have 3x1mm O-rings that the ID was prefect, the OD not so much. So I have two types of seals with opposite problems. My solution was to use both! I used two 3x1mm O-rings on either side and then cut my ZerksPlus High Temp Silicone Tubing to ride over the two O-Rings. Problem solved and I have a water/steam tight seal for the water level sight glass tube! YAY Me :-)
No other surprises! Putting this little engine is a bit of like a puzzle with all the straps & screws.
I love the style of this engine, as I expected it is one of my favorites. Though I can see why they didn't continue the design - I am sure it was costly to produce with the straps.
Interesting points compared to the later design:
- The Wheel's stand-offs don't have brass inserts for the steal wheel shaft.
- The piston stand-off doesn't have a cover for the steam/water holes. I can see why they added this later as water shoots perfectly onto the boiler/base crack!
- The main base doesn't have a divot. I can see why they added this later, for water collection.
- I really wished they kept the "rounded" elbow and whistle base (like on the iron based engines) though I'd image they were harder to produce.
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#21 Reply
Posted by
Paula
on 30 Sep, 2023 13:09
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Rich, congrats on a job well done! [ Guests cannot view attachments ] Those sight glass fittings are a tricky business.
Have been in contact with Wayne about the missing sight glass on his Play Boy (Empire 92) engine. I think they did the same thing on that model, that is, discontinued the spherical sight glass elbows in favor of cylindrical ones. Like you said -- probably just a cost savings. I prefer the looks of the spherical ones. I'm planning to use 3/16"(5MM) sight glass tubing for Wayne's engine, and probably make some of the spherical elbows.
Paula
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ya, IMO the later year ones are all about cost cutting and not so much style (or nickel plating).
5mm is correct for the bare copper Play/Power Boys - mine measure 5.4~5.5mm.
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Hopefully you guys will chime in!
Allan (UK - YouTube: RetroSteam Tech) shared that he used Plastikote Super Red Gloss when restoring a Empire engine. Which from his information this Plastikote is Dupli-Color in the USA. So I went down to Advance Auto Parts with a cleaned up pressed steal spare base to see if I could find a better match. I am sure I looked silly as I sat on the floor and pulled 5 cans of paint, comparing them to the Empire base for about 10 minutes. I settled on BGM0398 Bright Red, which are small cans of 8oz. So I got two cans, not exactly cheap at ~$17 each!
I taped off a corner and part of the riser. I then stripped, lightly sanded, etched primed, and then painted it with this new Bright Red. I’ve drawn black outlines to show the separation between old and new. Though it is likely easy to tell without those outlines. I did have blue painters tape down to keep overspray off the Empire paint. Oh, the black outline is slight into the new paint as not to cover the paint line between old & new (I pulled the tape to soon but its just a test anyways).
You should be able to expand the photo. I didn't crop it, so it is rather hi-res from my new iPhone 15 Pro Max. I also have in the photo my B43, while I like that color red, I want it to be closer to OEM.
Thoughts?
Edit: Added a direct sunlight photo. I think it is darn close...
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#24 Reply
Posted by
Paula
on 01 Oct, 2023 17:26
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Rich, looks like a pretty good match to me. Keep in mind that paint has a tendency to fade or darken over time, so matching the original exactly might be a futile exercise.
I really admire the perseverance you've shown with this project.
Paula
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Thanks
@Paula - my Ex (she has a Masters in Art) said exactly the same about the paint matching. I am horrid at colors. Though she didn't sound like she "admired my perseverance", more like I am crazy fussing about a old rusty toy LOL
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#26 Reply
Posted by
Paula
on 01 Oct, 2023 17:48
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Crazy?? Fussing about with old toys is what keeps me sane! [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
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This Dupli-Color is a lacquer, which is somewhat easier to use. Though I had to learn that it is different than the Krylon enamel paint (guess most spray paints are not lacquer). I would image the original paint was lacquer too? The only annoying thing is the nozzle dribbled some paint on the main base on the final coats. I am like WTF and will have to live with it. I can say I am happier with the Dupli-Color Bright Red.
Photo attached, the wheel isn't stripped/painted but I think I will do it. Put it in the shot to have a bit of a comparison. Though it isn't a really good one, as the paint isn't in the best of shape.
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now with the wheel painted. I had to spray some paint on some paper and use a very small/fine brush to touch up around the edge to the finish. I actually ran out of paint doing this, though I have some more coming via Amazon (along with Clear Gloss that is the same brand).
I probably should took the time to file the spokes down where it has pour edges (I am sure there is a official word for those) but then again it came with them... plus I didn't think about that until I laid down primer ;-)
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#29 Reply
Posted by
Paula
on 02 Oct, 2023 15:00
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Looks good, Rich! "Flash" is the word for that excess metal that flows out at the parting line between the two halves of the mold. Sometimes the foundry does an imperfect job of removing it. (And some times they go too far in removing it!) Also, sometimes you see where the mold halves were misaligned, which is a more serious defect.
I almost always paint cast iron flywheels (hub, spokes, inside rim) with a small brush. Cast surfaces don't show brush marks like smooth surfaces. If you use a good oil-based enamel, it flows out nicely as it dries. After the paint dries a bit, I'll come back with a paper towel moistened with a little thinner, and wipe any excess paint from the sides of the hub and rim. This painting method doesn't work as well on diecast wheels, as the surface is smooth. Spraying works better for those.
Paula
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