Timing is easy.
Just place the crank arm vertically. (straight up or straight down)
Then set set the eccentric so the high point is extended horizontally all the way forward or all the way back.
It is just a matter of having the eccentric 90 degrees to the crank shaft.
Regarding that screw on the side, it should be tight and it serves only to hold the outside disc in place which is just there to keep the eccentric straps from falling off.
Gil
How is the eccentric sheave attached? If it has straps around the sheave, is the sheave welded to the axle/shaft? If it was, it would always be fixed. That’s where my confusion is. How does adjusting that pulley change the timing (movement of the eccentric in relation to the crank).
The eccentrics are part of the pulley or attached to it.
If you take it apart and then remove the screw holding the sheet metal disc, the eccentric straps will come right off. There is no need to do this. Just make sure your timing is good as per my instruction and it will run in both directions. (it doesn't even matter how it is attached)
There is a set screw in the little pulley. IF your timing is off, loosen it and turn the pulley until it is right.
The engine is quite loud under load. Even if the faux governor is attached there is considerable knocking. Nothing is loose. If I remove the faux governor belt it runs very quiet and nice. The timing is spot on for what you stated. Is the knocking coming from not enough steam cushion in the cylinder?
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