Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines

Okay, so my Empire B-35 had a bit of a leak and two lime lines inside the glass tube.   So I decided to give it a go and replace the seals.

I first soaked the fittings with Liquid Wrench overnight.
Then I carefully applied my wrenches (both fittings at the same time) to let them give way.
Then I worked the fittings back and forth and until I could move them by hand.

So now how to get out the glass?  As it is just long enough to move up and down but not pull out.  At first I didn't get a lot of up/down movement for the glass.  I expected lime/crap built up into the fittings.  So I used a small syringe to squirt CLR into the fittings.  I let that sit on either side for about 5~10 minutes.  After this I carefully twisted the glass to break apart deposits in the fittings.  I put more CLR in and repeated a few times.

At this point the glass would go as far as it could and still not enough to pull out the glass.  So I had to decided which fitting I was going to loosen, which I decided the top one and it was near perfect looking, the bottom not so happy looking.  This worked perfectly.  Out comes the glass - YAY.

Next up cleaning out the old seals... what can I say its a lot of fun (not).  Using a jeweler's flat blade screw drive and tweezers I got the old O-ring out.  I also used 1500 Sand paper.  After much time the nuts and fittings were completely clear of old O-ring.

Now, what to use for O-rings?  Thanks to @Paula I knew the size from the Quality Brand (Empire) Gets A Facelift - 1/4” ID x 3/8” OD O-rings.  But where to get them, well you can get some from me because I have 94 left!  Or you can get them from Granger: O-Ring: 010, 1/4 in Nominal Inside Dia., 3/8 in Nominal Outside Dia., 70 Shore A, Red, Inch, 100 PK | Item # 1REC5 | Mfr. Model # U38883.006.0025 | UNSPSC # 31181506

Rats, can modify my previous post!

So, the double O-ring seals worked, no leaks from the glass fittings - YAY!  This is a really nice engine.  I had to transplant my B35 heater (which originally was in this B30 anyways) and I needed to move the whole whistle.  I also used some parts from the B31 I got, a little stubby screw.  This B35 will also get the B31's smoke stack but I need to rebuilt the seal in it.  Which I am getting another part that @txlabman suggest, Pressure-Rated Metal-Bonded Sealing Washer for Number 6 Screw Size, 0.123" ID, 0.550" OD from mcmaster.com (Part number 91195A120).

This B30 runs great!

The B30 was produced for a long time, and there are several differences in the standard factory Productions.
Like the water gauges for instance, there are models who have the upper and lower connections strait to the vertical face of the boiler.
Others have the upper connection to the vertical face of the boiler and the lower connection to the underside of the boiler and is connected by a U pipe to the glas gauge.
Why in time these small changes where made, I can't give you a direct answer to.
Is there a chronological pattern when these changes where made?
Probably.
I think the main reason was that it all was done for cost effectiveness.
My dad once told me story, he worked his whole career at the Ford factory, one day they discovered that the could keep something together with 3 in stead of 6 screws.
What a cost effectiveness do you think this makes to a firm, les labor, less material etc..
And I assume that this will also be the case why these minut changes are made over time.
Probably, but to my knowledge there is no record left that tels us when or why these minor changes where made.
This is only one detail I pointed out, probably there are many more minut changes in other places of the engines over time.
I hope this answers your question a little bit…

Cheers,
Danny

that is pretty cool engine you go there!  You could be right but I do like it a bit longer.