Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines

Can you sand the ends at an angle on a belt sander so when they overlap it makes the same thickness as the belt? (Left of pic)

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I have used the far left joint on PMR belt, sanding the angle so that I had at least a 1/4" overlap. I also took some care to not slide the top to far over the bottom so as not to create a "thick" spot.
  Next I spread the CA glue quite thin but used Medium viscosity, not the thin runny stuff. I weighted it with wax paper between Weight and belt to ensure not to stick my weight to the belt.
  Next I let it dry completely, then inspect...the super glue drys hard and stiff, I carefully take the joint an "massage" it in my fingers to slightly break down the stiff spot...sort of cracking the slab of glue so it's not one flat chunk but not stress it so much as to degrade the bond, I like to think of the glue as a plate of glass laminated between the rubber belt layers you want to break into small pieces like a puzzle but not break the bond between the top and bottom, the smaller pieces go around a pulley much smoother than a slab.
  Lastly, dispite best efforts it often will come out the joint is a slight thick spot in the belt, I roll it inside out and sand the joint area back so it's not thick, or even .003 thinner than the rest of the belt...all this fussing with the joint area will greatly soften it.
  The next time I make one I am going to try "flexible" super glue! I found it at a premium hobby shop but it is also used in the Archery industry to glue feathers on to arrow shafts. It does not truly dry soft as rubber but you can feel it's much softer the hard Regular CA glue. It does cost a bit more than Regular CA glue but may be worth the benifits.
  Hope this helps!2