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New Falk find - 1st restoration
Posted by
tsp2224
on 22 Mar, 2021 21:56
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Hello all,
Looking for some recommendations on restoration of this small Falk engine.
As far as cleaning in general, best practices, chemicals, paint etc.
I don't want to damage anything, but want to restore best as possible.
There's also a couple odd pieces added to it that don't make sense (off the front of the boiler, attached to the stack
and on the front base as well)
What would this boiler typically be made of? Brass? and what would be the best way to clean/restore the finish?
Any feedback/suggestions would be appreciated!
TP
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#1 Reply
Posted by
Woe is me
on 26 Mar, 2021 10:00
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Hi TP and welcome to The Forum. That boiler is brass that has been blued from the factory. If you can
remove the boiler from the base, do it.
The thing I use to clean is ammonia and water in a spray bottle over the sink or outside.
Spritz it and scrub lightly with a tooth brush, repeat and rinse. Then wash it with dish detergent and
water and rinse. Most of those marks will not come off unless you polish or buff it off but that'll
probably take the finish off down to the bare brass. I leave them on mine, like scars of authenticity.
Can you show more pictures from different angels? I want to see what that is out the front and the rear
of the boiler. The boiler should come off pretty easy.
Nice looking little engine, good grab.
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#2 Reply
Posted by
komet163b
on 26 Mar, 2021 10:31
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Good Morning..
I was watching this engine but found others
that fit my collection better. Given that,
these small engines are cute.
I agree, leave as much as possible 'as-is' after
a gentle cleaning. I always use a very light oil,
Diala, for an initial wipe-down, then decide if
there are any glaring appearance problems. All
others are badges of history. You can then decide
if there is are restorations or repairs to be done.
I would do so before any painting. Don't forget
lots of before and after pix!
Now, it does look like the sliding valve link has
a broken end. You'll have to address that before
it will run. You will also need a new boiler strap
and I don't know what purpose that thing hanging
off the boiler end serves, unless there is a big
hole there and that would be bad news..
So, take a deep breath, make a plan, and get to it.
You'll love it, then take a video of it running, and
show it here.
Good Luck,
Wayne
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#3 Reply
Posted by
tsp2224
on 29 Mar, 2021 16:20
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Thank you all for the recommendations. I definitely want to keep it as close to "as is" as possible. I will follow those suggestions
And follow up with pics.
I did already break it down a bit to start cleaning it as time allows.
As far as the broken sliding valve link, I did create a CAD drawing of the link to try to get it fabricated but it's almost
as much as I paid for the engine
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Any idea what material those links are made of? I'm thinking about trying to create it myself.
As far as a boiler strap, it's odd that there is nothing to fasten it down to the fire box... someone just
drilled a hole on each side of the firebox and ran a wire across it to hold it in place.
I will come up with a better solution. Thanks again for the feedback!
Tim
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#4 Reply
Posted by
tsp2224
on 08 Apr, 2021 19:21
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Hello all,
So I did a clean up on the engine, fabricated the broken sliding valve link and added a boiler strap
(waiting on shoulder screw so I made do for now)
Tried to fire her up today, but couldn't get it to turn over. No major leaks, relief valve seems good, whistle is good and it
acts like it wants to turn over but doesn't. Everything moves freely and is well oiled.
I opened up the valve casing (pics attached) as I have never looked inside a valve casing before.
Not sure if there are issues with the valve assy.
Tim
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#5 Reply
Posted by
Woe is me
on 08 Apr, 2021 20:57
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Hey tsp, did you try to run it on air before you tried steam? Nothing's leaking or trying to move?
Without having it in front of me I'm going to guess that the steam line is totally plugged. The
valve assembly looks different. I've seen a couple variations of this style with a roller ball.
Yours is missing parts and has some damage that I see. Here's what a similar one looks like with
all the parts.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
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#6 Reply
Posted by
tsp2224
on 08 Apr, 2021 21:52
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I was starting to think the line was plugged...but it does start to turn, then stops. No leaking, and the valve cover seems
to have a spring bar system that has a screw that allows for adjustment of the valve arm against the piston block. I tried adjusting
that and it almost starts spinning then it stops. unfortunately I don't currently have access for testing/running on air yet.
TP
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Take the slide valve and cover completely off .
Remove safety valve and blow into Safety valve hole with a rubber tube etc .
Air should freely escape from slide valve area .
If it does then steam line clear . If not then the steam line blocked.
The new bit you made did you have both broken bits to start with .
I suspect the replacement could be not quite right length
Cheers
Dennis
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#8 Reply
Posted by
tsp2224
on 08 Apr, 2021 23:05
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Hi Dennis, Yes, I did have the original sliding valve link pieces so I was able to use it as a template and
got the correct length for the new one. I will remove the valve cover and link and try that method to see if the
line is blocked.
TP
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#9 Reply
Posted by
tsp2224
on 09 Apr, 2021 21:04
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Checked the steam line today and it appears to be clear. Looking at the valve movement, it looked like the original valve link I
created was a bit short and once it did a revolution it didn't clear one of the valve holes. I created a new one and now I can see
both holes exposed as the flywheel makes a revolution. Still can't get it to turn over while steaming.
Here's video of the valve while moving it by hand:
https://youtu.be/IOqvkX-mpGg
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#10 Reply
Posted by
classixs
on 10 Apr, 2021 03:50
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You´ll have to change the settings for this on YouTube to share, it´s listed as "Private"
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#11 Reply
Posted by
tsp2224
on 10 Apr, 2021 10:29
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Thank you, it is public now.
TP
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#12 Reply
Posted by
komet163b
on 10 Apr, 2021 11:37
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I've never had an engine with this valve-type.
That said...
Isn't there supposed to be 'something' holding,
under light force, the valve-plate against the
cylinder valve-chest? Kind of a springy piece
of a metal strip? I could be wrong but I know
some engines have them and will not run without.
Of course, this engine could be an outlier.
So far, so good,
Wayne
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I've never had an engine with this valve-type.
That said...
Isn't there supposed to be 'something' holding,
under light force, the valve-plate against the
cylinder valve-chest? Kind of a springy piece
of a metal strip? I could be wrong but I know
some engines have them and will not run without.
Of course, this engine could be an outlier.
So far, so good,
Wayne
If you look above in earlier photos it shows everything.
This short video turning by hand was missing bits so we can see the valve port operation
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#14 Reply
Posted by
tsp2224
on 10 Apr, 2021 12:44
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Hi Wayne,
yes, there is a spring type mechanism (small springy metal strip)that slips onto the studs and is held on by the
valve cover, and there was even a tension screw to adjust tension as well. played with that
while steaming but it didn't work. And it looks like the valve ports are in correct position with the piston when
I slowly rotate the flywheel. I looked at a couple YouTube videos to see how that timing should work.
I'm puzzled.
TP
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