Here it is assembled, I hope to build a cart for it eventually, but this should be a decent test base, the solid wood base is much more sturdy than the soft wood box we are use to on M90 and similar engines. I did use a wood chisel to make some clearance for wires but in the end not much wood was removed. I will tidy up some of the wires but not going to get fancy on this temporary base.
You may see a shallow tin oil drip pan under the red engine casting and between flywheels...a tobacco can lid or air rifle pellet tin lid works nicely, I will inlay a small coin size magnet in the wood base to hold the pan in place, pan could possibly be slide out to empty. You can order this engine pre built with this base RTR, I saved a few $$ by purchasing as "kit".
I hope to try to run the engine tomorrow.
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Update:
Much to my delight, the engine started on the Very first flip, but stalled after a second. I thought it was to rich but after 2-3 attempts it was actually to lean. It likes to be quite rich (starting) then leaned out some after a minute of running. My engine ran very well for about 6-8 minutes and the governor functioned quite well....then the engine started hitting all the time and sounded like it was working under load.
I shut it down and held the exhaust valve open and rolled the engine over by hand and can feel I now have some internal drag, it feels exactly like the gentleman on YouTube was speaking of on his engine, when he removed his piston he found his stock o-ring was poorly molded and had a lip on the parting line. He changed out to just a standard black Buna o-ring of good quality and his engine now runs Much better!
I will open my engine and inspect my piston o-ring to see if I have the same issue.
The photo shows I have my engine wood base clamped in a vise, it is Much better adjusting fuel mix with the engine firmly clamped.
The photo is outside after dark and rather over exposed, it shows the engine as very bright red, my engine is not Burgundy but much darker red color than the photo.
To be continued....
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Update:
.... have some internal drag....
(Attachment Link)
Fwiw, the o-rings in my engines seem to create more compression with less drag when I mix one part Marvel oil with 35 parts low-octane gasoline. I've tried motor oils, ATF, and 2-stroke oil and got some drag.
The ratio works well with Naphtha, too, but there is less energy (a softer bang) with that fuel.
I was running Zippo (naptha) with only about 4 drops of Marvel oil per tank...it might be not a strong enough mix? But I suspect I will find a low quality o-ring.
Update:
I did have a very low quality o-ring in my engine, I can see AND feel a pronounced rib/lip on the OD/ID of my o-ring. The cyl bore is bright and shiny but my aluminum piston showed very light scuff marks.
Of Note: this piston is raw aluminum, my M90 has some sort of clear hard anodized surface.
I have some better quality (hopefully) o-rings coming Tuesday.
While waiting for new o-rings, I just can not help but experiment! One of the slight disappointment with the Enjomor is the piston rod does Not have bronze bushings, I pulled the head on my M90 as I was curious if I could swap pistons into Enjomor, sadly Enjomor is 20mm bore and M90 is 22mm bore BUT the M90 rod will fit Enjomor with slight mods, I had to sand the big end bronze bushing flush with aluminum Rod and chamber bushing, but then it will bolt right into Enjomor. The bushed rod is 3mm Shorter, so this will de-tune the Enjomor quite a bit (lower compression) but this may help slow the engine. If I don't like it, I can always bush the Enjomor rod later.
Photo shows the size differences of the 2 rods and what the piston ring looks like, If I twist the o-ring you would be able to see the seam/flaws on the ring.
To be Continued...
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Good Day Gents
I am new here and wanted to first say hello to everyone and thanks for all the great info.
I received my little Enjomor a few days ago and put together a base for her.
I decided to go with a single 18650 cell at 3.7 volts for ignition, works great.
I am running Coleman Naphtha and Marvel Mystery Oil, 100ml to 3ml mix
I opted to use silicone spray lube only on the governor and light sewing machine oil on all other bearing surfaces.
To start this particular engine - open needle valve 1/2 turn bring her to compression choke with your finger
and give her a crank by hand
- turn needle valve to one turn open and crank again no choke and she usually fires
right up.
This is a great little engine, very scale looking , I have managed to slow her down to about 3 to 4 hits before the governor engages by using a guitar string to make a lighter spring.
I am going to try a smaller gauge guitar string to make a lighter spring to try to get her to slow down a bit more.
Overall I am very impressed with this little engine and the fine tuning and experimentation is the fun part.
Take Care
Very nice base! Did you stain the wood?
Very nice base! Did you stain the wood?
Thank You
Yes I did stain the wood and then finished with a coat of teak oil
Take Care