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1926 Engine/boiler combo
Posted by
komet163b
on 11 Mar, 2020 11:33
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Good Afternoon from Brooklyn..
Some time ago I took a chance on the engine/boiler
combo in the photos. It was built in Sept 1926 (engraved
on the base) and hadn't run in many decades.
Now, I've restored it to working condition (for now)
by fixing several problems w/sealing and a tough
steam chest/valve issue. I've left it mostly original
and it works for now. Won't guarantee tomorrow.
So, the original heater looks like something that
would get you arrested at the airport. I've seen
several blowtorches at work, but can't imagine
what was used for fuel.
There is a valve at the burner, another below it,
and the other end has a silver 'cap' something
with a valve at the top. If there was a pump, I
would suspect it needed 'white' gas (old-school
name for camping stove gas?), but there is none.
The tank, which looks homemade, has absolutely
no odor to give a hint. That's all I know.
I've added photos of the questionable burner,
the engine as received, as it is now, I couldn't
add the video - wrong type(?). Please note that the burner
I'm using is a weed-burner that works and looks like hell
but I would love to get the original burner working to go
completely old-school original. As the say on the baseball
field 'Little help?'.
Any Ideas?
Wayne
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#1 Reply
Posted by
komet163b
on 11 Mar, 2020 11:37
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earlier photos didn't get in.
I think I have the knack now.
Video for later.
Wayne
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#2 Reply
Posted by
Hero
on 11 Mar, 2020 19:05
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#3 Reply
Posted by
komet163b
on 11 Mar, 2020 21:16
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That's what I thought when I saw the other.
FYI, 8oz just reaches the top of the flue tube.
The boiler is 3" by 7" and the flue is 1 3/4" in
diameter (bottom of flue about 1/2" above
bottom of boiler) and has 12 cross tubes.
When it came it was setup with a super-heating
loop, but that had to go to get this far. Cool
boiler, cool engine, happy steamer.
Wayne
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I can't help with your burner problem, Wayne but that is a looker of a steam plant.
I did see a few Regner marine burners on ebay but they probably aren't big enough. I hope you can get one sorted.
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#5 Reply
Posted by
komet163b
on 12 Mar, 2020 17:57
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I will try to come up with a good looking custom
burner setup. Now that I know the burner
works I can mess around with the gas delivery
piping and try to make it resemble the original
even more. A nice, original condition runner,
is worth more in my book than a pristine mint
restored example.
Wayne
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Looking at your original burner makes me think of a Coleman lantern. The “silver cap” is likely where you would fill the tank with white gas or naphtha. Early Coleman pieces used a separate pump to pressurize the tank. The cap has what looks like a nipple on it where something could engage it. Check the cap and see if it has a check valve in it that would let air go in the tank, but not out. Once the tank is pressurized, the valve at the other end would be opened just enough to let a small amount of fuel through so the burner could be lit and have a flame just big enough to heat the coil. Once the coil is hot enough, it will gasify the fuel and have a nice efficient flame at the burner. At least, this is how I think it should work. Also very similar in operation to a gasoline blowtorch.
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#7 Reply
Posted by
komet163b
on 04 May, 2020 22:25
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The 'nipple' is actually a valve stem, so, you could unscrew the
top portion (w/valve stem), pour in fuel, and then replace the
top. Then, I could attach a pressure-source, open the valve,
wait for pressure to normalize in the tank and then close it.
The fuel tank would then be pressurized.
The business end pipe/valve is attached to the tank 1/2 of the
way up (other end, when the tank is lying flat). This leads me to
a leap of logic. Since the idea is to burn a gasified vapor, the
amount of fuel I use 'must' be lower than the level of the outflow
pipe/valve. This is to avoid getting fluid fuel into the burner
system (does not sound good). So if I try it I'll load it maybe
to 1/3 of the way up from the bottom wall of the tank. Ah, but
at what pressure? Can't be too much. And, how clean burning is
Coleman fuel? Obviously, this is a 'NOT IN THE HOUSE, EVER' burner.
That said, I'd love to see at least the burner work one time so someone
else down the road can opt to restore it to an oroginal setup. As for me,
propane and a weed-burner head worked well.
So, I'm glad to hear other thoughts on this.
Still in one piece,
Wayne
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The business end pipe/valve is attached to the tank 1/2 of the
way up (other end, when the tank is lying flat). This leads me to
a leap of logic. Since the idea is to burn a gasified vapor, the
amount of fuel I use 'must' be lower than the level of the outflow
pipe/valve. This is to avoid getting fluid fuel into the burner
system (does not sound good).
Liquid fuel must leave the tank to reach the coil at the burner in order to be come gasified. Same way a Coleman lantern or a gasoline blowtorch works.
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#9 Reply
Posted by
komet163b
on 06 May, 2020 06:24
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Well, O'k. I'm up for this. How many pounds of pressure do you
think would be adequate? As soon as I can get some Coleman
gas I can give it a try.
Can't believe I'm up at this time. Trying to communicate with a
German auction house regarding a Bing I won. Seems to be bit
of trouble keeping their attention. Supposedly my VISA won't work
but VISA never received the request-for-auth. Hmmmm. Maybe
PayPal will work if they give me their info.
I'm getting frustrated by this lockdown,
Wayne
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#10 Reply
Posted by
komet163b
on 06 May, 2020 19:03
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Well, more advice is needed.
In the 5-photo sequence, the third
shows a good picture of the boiler.
The valve at the top of the sightglass
works but the one at the bottom is
stuck. Beautiful brass with perfect
patina but if it worked it would make
emptying the boiler easier. I've tried
wd40 without success and kind of left
it as it is - still as it was. Any ideas?
A super-penetrating who knows what?
No forcing this one. I'm sure whatever
I learn here will help in the future.
Thanks,
Wayne
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#11 Reply
Posted by
Stoker
on 06 May, 2020 21:23
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If it is all brass and glass, then a couple of drops of vinegar is where I'd start. Then after an hour or so of that treatment, rinse it out and then dry it out with a light dose of direct heat from a fine flame. No need to get it real hot, just hot enough to where you can't quit touch it. While it is still hot, or at least quite warm, apply a few drops of some good penetrant like kerosene, diesel oil, Tap-Magic, etc. and let the valve cooling down draw it in. Then let it sit for hours, days, weeks as you may choose. A few solid bumps with a soft faced hammer during the wait time may not go amiss. If you have an electric pencil, then several applications of that harsh vibration transmitted through some fairly hard intermediate material, such that the valve stem is not marked but the vibrations are transmitted. Finally a careful gripping with some soft jawed pliers, split leather in the jaws of some regular pliers is what I often use, and gently rocking the valve stem back and forth, alternating with some in and out pressure might eventually free it up. If not, then repeat the whole process again, or any part of it you feel you may have skimped on.
Hope any of this helps, and .... Good Luck!
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#12 Reply
Posted by
komet163b
on 07 May, 2020 11:39
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I'm on it....pretty soon, anyhow.
I can even run it t while I'm waiting
for a miracle. I like the 'vibration'
tactic and I'll figure-out some sort
of such device.
Thanks,
Wayne
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