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Author Topic: Bargain 1/2 hp G. Sipp .... the good, the bad & the ugly  (Read 304 times)

Stoker

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If it was just smeared on the valve linkage rod as shown in that prior photo, it would have been no problemo! However .... that stuff was fully packed in under the packing gland compression cap nut, and all along inside of the rod guide tunnel, so there was in fact a substantial amount of the gunk to be dug out from inner recesses.

It was pure joy to be sure!!!

Do note in that same photo, there are only just barely a full 5 threads on the end of that rod, and they are pretty chewed up, which doesn't make for a very firm grip or solid alignment, nor does it allow for much adjustment. The clevis head that screws on there only had four threads in it, so couldn't even go on that far, even though it had an I.D. depth capable of taking a full 10+ threads with a bottom tap. So I did go ahead and tap it to full depth, and took a die to the rod and gave it a full 14+ threads so that I could also mount a jam nut to lock off the clevis position!


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Yes ...  that hole is not very well centered either, but at least there is plenty of "meat" around it!
"Information is not knowledge, Knowledge is not wisdom, Wisdom is not truth, Truth is not beauty, Beauty is not love, Love is not music: Music is THE BEST...   
Wisdom is the domain of the Wis (which is extinct). Beauty is a French phonetic corruption of a short cloth neck ornament currently in resurgence..."
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classixs

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Thanks for sharing the good and bad details here Daniel, and well done on getting that clevis head properly fixed to the rod.

Do you intend to eventually fix the misaligned holes as well?
Cheers
Jan
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Stoker

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Thanks for sharing the good and bad details here Daniel, and well done on getting that clevis head properly fixed to the rod.

Do you intend to eventually fix the misaligned holes as well?

Probably not Jan ... at least not at this point. There is so much that could be done, but for now I'll just concentrate on what must be done to get this big boy up and running at some reasonable level. Perhaps then I can go back through it and fix some of the more egregious issues that don't necessarily impact its ability to function.

I originally suggested, back before I made the drive to get it, that what I was buying was just a "pig in a poke", and that is exactly what it turns out that I got. I'm actually far ahead of what my postings here show, so I know full well at this point what the big picture is, and it isn't any too pretty. Still, I have faith that it can yet be turned into a decent runner as most of the key machining was likely done by the factory, so it is just the ancillary work that has problems .... for the most part anyway.

In the end, this engine should prove fully capable of all that I will ever ask of it, which won't be much, as I don't have much in the way of providing it with the steam, or even air power, that it truly needs to work properly. I do believe, now that I really know what I have, that I will be happy with this engine, even with all of its obvious problems and poor machining, if for no other reason than I would never likely have parted with the money that an truly good 1/2 hp Sipp should properly bring!

Hey ... if nothing else .... it has a nice paint job!?!?
"Information is not knowledge, Knowledge is not wisdom, Wisdom is not truth, Truth is not beauty, Beauty is not love, Love is not music: Music is THE BEST...   
Wisdom is the domain of the Wis (which is extinct). Beauty is a French phonetic corruption of a short cloth neck ornament currently in resurgence..."
F. Zappa ... by way of Mary, the girl from the bus.

Jim

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Thanks for the pics and the update Daniel.
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Cheers.
Jim

My YouTube Channel https://www.youtube.com/user/Blue123Heeler/videos


Stoker

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All righty then kids .... back to this ongoing mechanical adventure, and sorry for the extended delay. Likely to be more of the same before this tale of woe is complete, but no hurry anyway as it isn't going anywhere under its own power anytime soon!

So last post I was inside the steam chest, and while I found the D-valve and port face to be fairly flat, albeit with somewhat rounded edges and corners, and not entirely smooth, I decided that I'd do a bit of lapping and also try to clean up and square the ports themselves which were a bit out of square with some wildly irregular edges. Turns out that took a fair amount of time as the casting inside the port channels was pretty rough, and even though I didn't do a true clean-up of all of that, I do believe the steam flow will now be somewhat enhanced and the cut-off should be a bit crisper as well, however I was unable to truly "square" the port edges, and they actually seem to slant slightly to the motion of the valve. Perhaps they are supposed to as a means of phasing the open and closing of the port? Probably not, and it is just another weird artifact of a poor build, though this one does seem to be cast in and nearly irremediable. Should run better now in any event!


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There is also a noticeable casting flaw in both the D-valve and port face surfaces that would take really serious lapping, or even milling to get past, as would the rounded edges and corners on both faces. For now I'll not go that far,and likely never will, but it could be an option if it turns out to be necessary.

I should add that the other end of the valve linkage seems pretty okay just the way it is. The eccentric seems reasonably well made and fitted with shims that will allow for adjustment with wear. Although the linkage rod is "S" bent, and it likely wouldn't have to be if the eccentric cam had been put on the other way around, there really isn't any problem with it done this way, and I have now seen photos of at least a few others done this way as well.
"Information is not knowledge, Knowledge is not wisdom, Wisdom is not truth, Truth is not beauty, Beauty is not love, Love is not music: Music is THE BEST...   
Wisdom is the domain of the Wis (which is extinct). Beauty is a French phonetic corruption of a short cloth neck ornament currently in resurgence..."
F. Zappa ... by way of Mary, the girl from the bus.

Jim

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Thanks for the pictorial update Daniel.
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Cheers.
Jim

My YouTube Channel https://www.youtube.com/user/Blue123Heeler/videos


St Paul Steam

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Yes , thanks for the update , following along closely here .
Bruce
St. Paul Indiana , USA

tenniV11

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Thanks for the story - the tuning will be closely overviewed
perfect the lapping...

Arnold ;D

classixs

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Yes , thanks for the update , following along closely here .
Ditto  :)
Cheers
Jan
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Stoker

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Let's call it a day on the valve linkage / steam chest side of this beast, and head back up to the flywheel / crankshaft assembly. With the valve linkage fully disconnected, the noticeable bind in flywheel rotation was still present. So my next move was to disconnect the crank rod from the crank and see how that might be affecting rotation.

Sure enough, rotation smoothed out almost completely with only a slight and fairly even resistance felt through 360 degrees of rotation. Whew!

With just a very slight loosening of the cap screws holding the bearing clamps in place, the flywheel spun easily through several rotations coming to a slow and even stop that bodes well for the shaft and bearings I think. With the bearing clamps in this ever so slightly loosened condition I tried to wiggle the crankshaft and felt no noticeable movement. This seems real good ... perhaps too good to be true?

Along the way, I thought I'd take the time to check for any bend in the crankshaft, with the shaft still cradled in its bearings. So I got out an indicator set-up and with the tip set as close to the hub of the flywheel as I could manage, took a set of rotational readings that gave me less than .002" runout, and some of that could easily be due to old varnished oil, though probably not.

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In any event, it is now apparent that the drag/bind issue was going to be found in the piston/cylinder/crosshead-slide/ linkage system, and not with the crankshaft or bearings ..... again, WHEW!!!

I should add that perhaps surprisingly, the connecting rod's holes at both ends seem fairly well centered, though not perfectly, and both the crosshead-slide and crank arm holes while not too well centered, are both adequately so, as to have plenty of "meat" around them, and should offer no problems. The crank end of the connecting rod has a set of brass bearing inserts that will need some adjustment as there is a little slop on the crank arm bolt (crank pin), and the adjusting screw for that bearing set cannot further tighten, so the edges where the two bearing halves meet will need to be filed back ever so slightly to allow further adjustment range.

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"Information is not knowledge, Knowledge is not wisdom, Wisdom is not truth, Truth is not beauty, Beauty is not love, Love is not music: Music is THE BEST...   
Wisdom is the domain of the Wis (which is extinct). Beauty is a French phonetic corruption of a short cloth neck ornament currently in resurgence..."
F. Zappa ... by way of Mary, the girl from the bus.

 

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