Office of Steam Forum for Model & Toy Steam Gas & Hot Air Engines

Hello all,

Looking for some recommendations on restoration of this small Falk engine.
As far as cleaning in general, best practices, chemicals, paint etc.
I don't want to damage anything, but want to restore best as possible.
There's also a couple odd pieces added to it that don't make sense (off the front of the boiler, attached to the stack
and on the front base as well)

What would this boiler typically be made of? Brass? and what would be the best way to clean/restore the finish?

Any feedback/suggestions would be appreciated!

TP

Good Morning..

  I was watching this engine but found others
that fit my collection better.  Given that,
these small engines are cute.

  I agree, leave as much as possible 'as-is' after
a gentle cleaning.  I always use a very light oil,
Diala, for an initial wipe-down, then decide if
there are any glaring appearance problems.  All
others are badges of history.  You can then decide
if there is are restorations or repairs to be done.
I would do so before any painting.  Don't forget
lots of before and after pix!

  Now, it does look like the sliding valve link has
a broken end.  You'll have to address that before
it will run.  You will also need a new boiler strap
and I don't know what purpose that thing hanging
off the boiler end serves, unless there is a big
hole there and that would be bad news..     

  So, take a deep breath, make a plan, and get to it.
You'll love it, then take a video of it running, and
show it here.

Good Luck,
Wayne

Hello all,

So I did a clean up on the engine, fabricated the broken sliding valve link and added a boiler strap
(waiting on shoulder screw so I made do for now)
Tried to fire her up today, but couldn't get it to turn over. No major leaks, relief valve seems good, whistle is good and it
acts like it wants to turn over but doesn't. Everything moves freely and is well oiled.
I opened up the valve casing (pics attached) as I have never looked inside a valve casing before.
Not sure if there are issues with the valve assy.

Tim


 

I was starting to think the line was plugged...but it does start to turn, then stops. No leaking, and the valve cover seems
to have a spring bar system that has a screw that allows for adjustment of the valve arm against the piston block. I tried adjusting
that and it almost starts spinning then it stops. unfortunately I don't currently have access for testing/running on air yet.

TP

Hi Dennis, Yes, I did have the original sliding valve link pieces so I was able to use it as a template and
got the correct length for the new one. I will remove the valve cover and link and try that method to see if the
line is blocked.

TP

You´ll have to change the settings for this on YouTube to share, it´s listed as "Private" 

I've never had an engine with this valve-type.

That said...
Isn't there supposed to be 'something' holding,
under light force, the valve-plate against the
cylinder valve-chest?  Kind of a springy piece
of a metal strip?  I could be wrong but I know
some engines have them and will not run without.

Of course, this engine could be an outlier.

So far, so good,
Wayne

Hi Wayne,

yes, there is a spring type mechanism (small springy metal strip)that slips onto the studs and is held on by the
valve cover, and there was even a tension screw to adjust tension as well. played with that
while steaming but it didn't work. And it looks like the valve ports are in correct position with the piston when
I slowly rotate the flywheel. I looked at a couple YouTube videos to see how that timing should work.
I'm puzzled.

TP